Before the pandemic, I went to restaurants much more often. A family night out at a casual pizza or sushi place was a cheerful option on evenings when I was too tired to cook. But now I think hard before booking a table: will the experience bankrupt me? And if yes, will the meal be worth it? Food critic Chris Nuttall-Smith writes about the soaring price of restaurant meals among other new developments in the world of dining in this essay for the June issue cover story. Several months ago, he set out on an epic, 50-restaurant, coast-to-coast eating jag for Maclean’s, gorging his way from Quidi Vidi, Newfoundland, to Ucluelet, B.C. His goal was to take the temperature of the country’s remade dining landscape. Here’s what he learned.
—Sarah Fulford, editor-in-chief