A love letter to old-school Italian restaurants

Dear reader,

Growing up, going out to eat meant McDonald’s for a Happy Meal, Golden Griddle for the breakfast buffet or Swiss Chalet for a quarter-chicken dinner. We didn’t go to restaurants very often, so when we did go somewhere special, it was a big deal.

By special, I mean Mother’s Pizza or the Old Spaghetti Factory. And later on, in high school, nine out of 10 dates took place at East Side Mario’s. So, while I now appreciate all of the excellent Italian kitchens Toronto has to offer, I’ll always have a soft spot for a classic red-sauce restaurant. The kitschier, the better: faux-Tiffany lampshades, checkered tablecloths, shakers of chili flakes and dusty Kraft parmesan, Shirley Temples and free spumoni ice cream (Why always spumoni?!) for the kiddos. I recently found two mint-condition Mother’s Pizza Coca-Cola glasses at Value Village, and you can bet I bought them without hesitation.

In this week’s newsletter, you’ll read about Casa Verde, an Italian restaurant in an old Ajax farmhouse with a storied history. While it’s not exactly kitschy (and most definitely uses real parmesan), it does have a certain old-school charm that speaks to me—and to others, clearly, given that it’s been serving up bowls of scaloppine al Marsala and linguine alla pescatora since 1991.

Also: what’s on the menu at a fun new restaurant in Leslieville, the story behind a fast-casual sandwich spot in Woodbridge and a peek inside Auberge du Pommier chef Solomon Mason’s home kitchen.

Just off Highway 2, in a quaint section of Ajax somewhat confusingly called Pickering Village, is a rapini-green farmhouse. Built in 1890, the building has been many things, including a rum runner’s den and a makeshift maternity ward. But, since 1991, Italian restaurant Casa Verde has occupied the space, turning out classic dishes like gnocchi, scaloppine al Marsala and—the long-time fan favourite—linguine alla pescatora.

Leslieville is the proud home of a playful new snack bar and bottle shop. Ricky and Olivia serves a menu of elevated takes on nostalgic ’90s snacks and fun cocktails—including one that tastes like pizza, two that are boozy slushies and many that come garnished with gummy candies.

After working for years in the kitchens of fine-dining restaurants, two sandwich-loving friends left for a life in fast food. Together, they opened Southeast Sandwiches, a fast-casual spot in a Woodbridge plaza—and soon became known for their Vietnamese and Filipino twists on classic combos.

Solomon Mason, the new executive chef at Auberge du Pommier, let us poke around his kitchen. He doesn’t cook a lot at home, so his fridge is mostly stocked with long-lasting condiments, cans of Bubly and bottles of bubbly—but also some Château de Bourgogne, a very nice triple-cream brie.

In the latest issue: the perilous lives of international students. Plus, the professor, the caregiver and the case of the missing $30 million; a Q&A with drag legend Priyanka; the best secret supper clubs; and more. Still not receiving Toronto Life at home? Subscribe today.