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Are you afraid of cooking a whole fish? I must admit I rarely cook anything with its head on, but Elizabeth Hewson 's recipe this week may change my mind. "From one home cook to another, once you’ve mastered it you won’t look back," she writes. "Not only does a whole fish make an impressive presentation, but cooking it on the bone, as with meat, ­delivers the best flavour." I will give her recipe for snapper acqua pazza a go, and as she explains, you can also do it with fish fillets if that's your preference. Try too her cute little hazelnut cookies.

Meanwhile Yotam Ottolenghi needs no introduction. The English-Israeli chef is a master of flavour and this week we have three recipes from his new book Comfort. Try his spicy chicken thighs, his salmon tray bake or a very unusual and delicious-sounding potato salad recipe. You can't lose with one of his recipes.

Happy cooking.

Elizabeth Meryment
The Weekend Australian Magazine
Recipes
HOME COOKING
Ottolenghi’s spicy chicken thighs
One person’s idea of comfort food might be the next person’s idea of challenging. It’s personal, tied up with home, family and memory.
YOTAM OTTOLENGHI AND HELEN GOH
TRAY BAKES
An Ottolenghi salmon tray bake that’s a family winner
The fuss-free cooking method – all hail the traybake! – plus the dialled-up flavours – all hail puttanesca! – makes such a winning combination.
By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI AND HELEN GOH
COMFORT FOOD
Hold the mayo: an Ottolenghi potato salad
This is an oil/broth-based salad, more prevalent in the southern parts of Germany. It’s less heavy and claggy than the mayo variety.
By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI, HELEN GOH & VERENA LOCHMULLER
FISH COOKING
Afraid of cooking a whole fish? This is how to do it
If cooking a whole fish isn’t an option but you love the sound of this recipe, thick white fish fillets will work wonderfully.
By ELIZABETH HEWSON
BAKING
These sweet treats are fit for a queen
Legend has it these cookies were created by an Italian chef for royalty in the mid-1800s. The two small, round biscuits come together with a chocolate filling – a ­perfect kiss.
By ELIZABETH HEWSON
Wine

Cellar director John Lehmann selects three stunning McLaren Vale shirazs for a huge saving of $144 in a super six deal. Click the link to see the deal. Details here.

The Navy man turned best wine newcomer
James Bresnehan has swapped fatigues for the farm, and in doing so has developed a chardonnay that makes the hairs on the back of your neck stand up.
By NICK RYAN
French kiss: Rhone reds lay on the seductive charm
From our man on the ground in southern France, here’s a mix of velvety reds exhibiting a dangerously drinkable quality – at an equally appealing price point.
By JOHN LEHMANN, TOM SMITHIES
From the archive
MIDWEEK COOKING
11 easy tray bakes to make this week
From Ottolenghi to Donna Hay, these one-tray bakes make cooking dinner easy this week.
By GISELLE BUETI AND STEPHANIE SEKULOVSKA
Journeys
The glacier at the end of the world
We are in the waters of Patagonia when suddenly this massive, majestic wall of blue ice shards reveals itself. This, I think to myself, is bucket list cruising.
By FIONA HARARI
P.S

Melbourne chef Ben Shewry does not hold back in his new memoir when it comes to his relationship with restaurant critics. Shewry believes the restaurant industry has been in the thrall of critics for too long, arguing that most critics are underbaked when it comes to expertise and have inflated egos.  "Many food reviewers justify their role as a service to the public, but few grasp the responsibility and privilege they have. Often, they work with little expertise. It takes a minimum of 15 years of continuous focus to get good at all aspects of cooking; it can take a food critic one sideways promotion to find themselves in a position where they are judging the results of that cooking." Is he correct? You be the judge by reading the piece here.