Photo by Soraya Matos. Prop and food styling by Aja Malia Coon.

Don't ever tell me that Midtown is dead.

As a longtime resident of this often maligned neighborhood in New York City, I always do a little happy dance when a stellar restaurant opens. Like Le Veau d'Or, a "new" restaurant with an old pedigree, dating back to

1937 and perched on East 60th Street. This 50-seat gem, which once served classic French bistro fare to a who's who of guests (think Truman Capote and Jackie Onassis) has been reinvigorated by Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson of Frenchette and Le Rock fame. I went on a summer night and tried the frog legs bathed in butter, the hanger steak with Bernaise sauce, the perfectly crisp fries, and the oh-so-very-appropriate salad course before dessert. It was a throwback to civility and intimacy, not really dining as theater so much as dining as true nourishment–and I loved it.

A standout meal is about the ingredients and the preparation, but as any episode of The Bear will tell you, it's also about the service, the energy, and the environment: is there laughter in the room, or dead silence? Now, more than ever, people see restaurants—particularly those with a notable chef—as a form of escapism, but that package has to be worth the time and the cost. (FWIW, Le Veau D'Or offers a $125 prix fixe menu, for a starter, main, salad, and dessert—and the portions are generous.)

Our September Culinary Issue features some of the most dynamic dishes and drinks to be had around the world in 2024, from the historic streets of Prague to the vineyards of Cab-soaked Napa Valley. No guarantee that every bite or pour will resonate, and that's ok. But as I like to say to my nine-year-old son: Give something new a try. You just might like it.