Fine rinds | Here’s your regular reminder to save Parmesan and similar hard cheese rinds. I finally tipped those I’d been hoarding for months into a pan of softening beans, and the flavour they gave the resulting broth was astonishing. There’s no need for stock; I just stirred in some caramelised onion and garlic and a handful of shredded greens, and dug in. Live and let churn | As something of a butter connoisseur (read: someone who eats it like cheese), I’ve sampled most brands available in my vicinity, and my longstanding favourite supermarket version is the deliciously salty Sainsbury’s West Country Farmhouse butter. It used to be marketed as whey butter, meaning it’s made using the cream left over from cheesemaking, but this fact has been relegated to the small print – thankfully, the slightly acidic, cultured flavour remains the same. Hot fat | Hot Fat, a collection of deep-fried joy from Russell Alford and Patrick Hanlon (AKA the GastroGays), beautifully illustrated by Nicky Hooper, is one of a series from Dublin-based publisher Blasta Books that offers an accessible snapshot of modern Irish food culture. It also includes Lily Ramirez-Foran on tacos and Kwanghi Chan with the first Irish-Chinese cookbook on the market. And, yes, Hot Fat does feature a recipe for spice burgers. Carbonara for a cold day | It takes a lot to get me off the sofa on a cold January evening, but when I heard Luciano Monosilio, Rome’s “king of carbonara”, was cooking at Carousel this week, I knew it was my professional duty to go. The turnip tops with anchovies and egg were good, and the sweetbreads perfectly caramelised, but the carbonara was divine: peppery and unfathomably creamy. Happily, I now have the recipe (turns out he uses a bain-marie), so won’t need to leave the house again until spring. |