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Hi readers, it’s Amanda, your Editor in Chief, back with my weekly roundup of everything—both on and off Eater—that piqued my interest in the food world. RantLet's dive right into the deep end. This week marks the opening of a brand new Keith McNally restaurant in New York, which—no matter what else is going on, or how recent his last opening was, or who the chef is—is always a Very. Big. Deal. It’s called Augustine. It’s in the newly-revived Temple Court downtown. Looks gorgeous. Eater NY’s Nick Solares went to the press preview and loved the food. Can't wait to try it myself. But then there's this. Perhaps to drum up some buzz for the restaurant this week, McNally wrote in an essay for the Times that he’s a tad wistful for the days when sexual harassment protection wasn’t such a Thing. When people could screw openly. He writes: “[I]t’s difficult not to be anything but fully supportive of a system that protects employees from harassment. But, remembering what it was like to be in my 20s, I believe it’s also important not to throw out the baby with the bathwater.” Now, McNally is famously cheeky, and I’m sure a lot of readers saw no issue with this. But it makes me cringe. The restaurant industry is the single-largest source of sexual harassment charges filed by women with the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission. And according to a recent survey of 700 industry workers, “sixty percent of women and transgender workers and 46 percent of men reported that sexual harassment was an uncomfortable aspect of work life.” As the wonderfully outspoken Jen Agg tweeted, you can still fuck your co-workers in the cellar—or, as McNally did, meet your two future wives in restaurants. You just can’t sexually harass them. Opening of the week: The Shaw BijouWho’s behind this place? Top Chef alum Kwame Onwuachi is a rising star in the food world, even though he hasn’t (until this moment) run his own restaurant. He already has a book deal in the works because his background (his mom sent him from the Bronx to Nigeria when he was 12; he sold candy bars on the subway to pay for culinary school) is so compelling. What is it? It’s a high-end restaurant serving food inspired by Onwuachi’s childhood and travels in a 32-seat dining room that looks absolutely stunning. It’s tasting menu-only (a big trend in D.C.), and $185 a head before drinks, tax, or tip. Where is it? The Shaw, AKA D.C.’s next big neighborhood. When will it open? It opened to the public on Tuesday after about a year of delays. Why is it such a big deal? It’s an incredibly bold move for an untested chef to open such an expensive restaurant. It’s a Black chef opening a splashy restaurant in a scene—or an entire industry, really—dominated by white men. And any restaurant this expensive is bound to attract notice. How’s it going over so far? Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema already filed a “First Bite” declaring it not worth the $500 price tag. But I’m still going to make a resy. Eater’s must reads of the week
Instagram interludeThings to read that are not from Eater but also good
Oh, and one more Eater story to wrap things up: We published a personal essay by a guy (Achewood’s Chris Onstaad!) who peed on his brother in a Carl’s Jr. Enjoy! -- Amanda Kludt, Eater Editor in Chief | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
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