Sometimes, when friends come over for dinner, I start planning by picking out the serving plates. Strange as that may sound, this visual cue often sets the rest in motion: a wide ceramic platter for grilled lamb chops with ezme, yoghurt and cumin salt, say, or for a generous mound of lentils and chickpeas dotted with nuts and barberries. A splash of green here, a pop of orange there, maybe a touch of purple for contrast …
I don’t expect everyone to kick off their meal prep by picking out the tableware, but for me it can be the first spark of creativity. This week, I chatted with my test kitchen colleagues, who have serious form at feeding crowds, to pin down a few practical steps for achieving a manageable spread without leaving a mountain of cleaning up.
Start with the centrepiece
You need only one dish that will grab everyone’s attention and make them go: “Ooh!” Think blackened sea bass, celebration rice or a roast lamb shoulder. Once you have your centrepiece, round it out with simple sides such as roast potatoes with green sauce and tahini or some leafy greens. Just one knockout main and a few delicious accompaniments is more than enough to keep your guests happy. (Bonus points if the main event can be popped in the oven in the morning and taken straight to the table at dinner time.)
Prep as much as possible
Take care of the small stuff in advance. Marinate the meat, chop the vegetables, make sauces, toast nuts. Anything that can be done the day before should be. Knowing what needs doing and when will help you dodge that last-minute scramble.
Serve family style
Skip the formality and put on a spread of shareable dishes, so people serve themselves. It’s also helpful to choose a theme to pull everything together – for instance, a big plate of juicy birria beef in the centre with a charred corn salsa and a coriander crema alongside. This approach not only helps bring people together, it also saves on the washing-up.
Don’t be a martyr
You might think you can pull off a feast alone, but a little help goes a long way. Get someone else to do the grocery run, pick up the bread or wrangle with any little ones while you get on with the prep. Once there’s a crowd around you, being the cook becomes easier – most people will either want to lend a hand (in which case give them a lemon to zest) or to give you the space to focus. And remember, whoever does the shopping also doubles up as the dishwasher!
Clean as you go
It’s tempting to toss dirty teaspoons into the sink and leave them there for later, but resist the urge if you can. Wipe and rinse your spoons and knives as you go, and use a big bowl as a tabletop bin for tossing your scraps into. These small steps will make a world of difference when it comes to cleaning up.
Keep snacks in easy reach
To keep hungry guests out of the kitchen, set out a few simple snacks in a different space: a bowl of olives, some spiced nuts or a plate of crudités with as many dips as you can whip up – perhaps a butter bean mash with walnuts or spiced red lentil dip with curry leaves. Snacks that don’t require any attention are a host’s best friend.
With just one standout dish, a bit of advance prep and some unexacting snacks, hosting can become slightly less stressful. Take the help that’s offered, prepare what you can – and don’t forget the crisps (or olives or nuts).
Dutch baby pancakes, made here with fig preserve and soured cream. Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian
