One cook’s journey to an exceptional brunch.

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The Only Good Waffle Is a Crispy Waffle

When I commit to making waffles, I want each bite to shatter under the weight of my teeth. I want the interior to be tender, and I want the whole batch to come out uniformly so that my second (or third!) waffle is just as crisp and delicious as the first.

I recently went down a rabbit hole of waffle theory, trying to learn how to make better waffles with my admittedly not-stellar waffle maker. Molly Marzalek-Kelly, of King Arthur Baking Company, told me that to understand why waffles get crisp, I first needed to understand the difference between a waffle batter and a pancake batter. “Waffles typically contain more fat than pancakes,” she explained. They tend to have more added sugar as well, and both ingredients help the surface of the waffle to caramelize. You don’t have to use standard granulated sugar, though. In fact, my favorite waffle recipe relies on maple syrup for sweetness, which gives you a flavor bump, too.

Another important bit of intel: When it comes to waffles, never whip your egg whites. This may sound like heresy, but if you’ll just come along for the journey, I’ll explain everything.

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