People are looking at what’s next, and then next, and then next, much more quickly, and the life cycle of a product is much shorter. So, while we need to look at data, we need to have a team that works with its instincts, and who we empower to work that way.
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Model Anne St. Marie wears Balenciaga, Vogue 1955.
(Henry Clarke/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Wednesday - January 03, 2018 Wed - 01/03/18
rantnrave:// Happy new year to all. I'm spending time in northern CALIFORNIA. Seeing marine life along the coast has made me even more attuned to companies that publicize efforts to do less harm to the environment. THE BUSINESS OF FASHION and MCKINSEY released a joint report on 10 trends that will define fashion in 2018, and sustainability is among them. NOAH shared a video on the importance of ZOOPLANKTON to the marine ecosystem, and the post is aligned with a broader movement for apparel and fashion companies to spread environmental awareness. There's another movement I see happening here: viewing the world from the micro scale, whether it's in textile development at the fiber level, the milliseconds it takes bots to chase sneakers online, or tracking the minutiae of cryptocurrency. For fashion, this has some fascinating implications for research and development... In terms of vision, storytelling, and execution, EQUINOX has been making interesting moves that cross boundaries between health and wellness, fashion, and philanthropy. Although I often leave their shops empty-handed, the boutiques move the company mythos into fashion, and the selection always feels right for the brand. CARRIE BATTAN wrote a fantastic story about the gym's origin and loyal following. The company unveiled its Commitment Collection, a set of collaborative projects that combine fashion, utility, and philanthropy in 7 different objets d'art. VIRGIL ABLOH, ECKHAUS LATTA, SHAYNE OLIVER, and Y/PROJECT are among the collaborators. The project doesn't categorically identify as charity auction, design capsule, or much-hyped collab, and it benefits from that—a little mystery can be a good thing. More companies should experiment... In brief: JOHN GALLIANO recalls his early years and living in south LONDON... Scrunchie history... A startup that makes returns its business.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
terroir
The Business of Fashion
10 Trends That Will Define the Fashion Agenda in 2018
by BoF Team
In the new year, new patterns will shape the global fashion industry, from the assertion of Asian players to a globalisation reboot, reveals BoF and McKinsey & Company's in-depth report, The State of Fashion 2018.
Racked
Why War Reporters Wear Flak Jackets and Fake Wedding Rings
by Daisy Alioto
After war correspondent Marie Colvin was killed in Syria in 2012, Vanity Fair ran a profile about her life: "Her nails were a perfect scarlet, and her double strand of pearls was a gift from Yasser Arafat... she wore a Prada black nylon quilted coat as camouflage."
The New York Times
Sneaker Heads Share Secrets to Scoring the Hottest Shoes and Keeping Them Fresh
by Joanna Nikas
Sneaker Con, a gathering of shoe fanatics founded in 2009, brought 500 vendors and over 19,000 people to the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York late last year. The heart and soul of the event is the trading pit, an area in the back of the 840,000-square-foot center where a crowd of mostly teenage boys was talking and holding up their sneakers, looking for buyers.
HERO magazine
ALYX designer Matthew Williams shares an insight into his newly-formed menswear line
by Undine Markus
Matthew Williams, founder and designer of ALYX, is a master of multiple trades; fashion, creative direction and branding. Dropping out of college after the first semester in order to move to New York, Williams went on to work with the likes of Lady Gaga and Kanye West.
The Guardian
'It's about our dignity': vintage clothing ban in Rwanda sparks US trade dispute
by Lauren Gambino
Secondhand garments are stifling the country’s fashion industry, officials say, but the ban has dismayed local traders - and reportedly imperils 40,000 US jobs.
Quartz
The world’s largest clothing maker isn’t betting on automation replacing cheap human labor
by Marc Bain
Crystal Group, which produces for H&M and Gap, just had a big IPO. Instead of automation, it's investing in low-wage labor.
The Washington Post
Equinox’s version of a New Year’s resolution? Social justice, stilettos and journalism.
by Robin Givhan
Fashion loves nothing more than churning out one-off oddities that challenge the imagination and defy logic. The fashion industry also loves nothing more than a collaboration, and there is no greater proponent of the unexpected collaboration than Virgil Abloh, the founder of the street style brand Off-White.
Fashionista
How Top Industry Publications Choose Their 'Sneaker of the Year'
by Rae Witte
From Complex to Hypebeast to Footwear News, we found out what goes on behind the scenes of the deliberation process.
Racked
Depression-Era Movies and Their Bizarre Fashion Show Montages
by Tracy E. Robey
Forty-four minutes into (1939), the star-studded cast - filmed in black and white - takes their seats to watch a live fashion show. The six-minute segment is the only part of the movie shown in Technicolor.
The Cut
What's a 'Slaysian'?
by Jason Chen and Mamadi Doumbouya
The creative minds behind Bubble_T, New York’s queer Asian dance party.
earth
The Fashion Law
ACRONYM: A Perennial Source of Inspiration for High Fashion Brands
Italian brands have a thing for ACRONYM. Back in June 2013, Gucci, then under the creative direction of Frida Giannini, showed an awfully similar looking jacket, one that was a dead ringer the GT-J5A jacket that Errolson Hugh introduced for Fall 2007 and revived beginning in Fall 2010.
Marketplace
Why the retail apocalypse isn't being taken seriously
by David Brancaccio and Mark Cohen
The number of retail workers far exceeds the number of coal miners or recent manufacturing employees, points out Columbia University professor Mark Cohen.
Vestoj
Acting As If
by Michelle Millar Fisher
On the trench coat, the tracksuit and authenticity.
WWD
How the Mall Fell Out of Fashion
by Misty White Sidell
It's the most spendthrift time of the year - a period when materialism is integral to tradition. To celebrate the holidays without shopping would seemingly render someone a philistine Grinch. But the mood surrounding fashion and shopping this holiday season isn't as tried-and-true as television commercials may suggest.
South China Morning Post
How Vietnam’s textile industry is trying to be more eco-friendly
by Crystal Tai
The world’s fifth biggest textiles and garment exporter, Vietnam is cracking down on polluters, while foreign investors are building new factories to higher standards and using more environmentally friendly manufacturing processes.
Deadline
High Fashion of ‘Phantom Thread’ Became Costume Designer Mark Bridges’ Greatest Test
by Matt Grobar
Reading Paul Thomas Anderson's script for Phantom Thread for the first time, Oscar-winning costume designer Mark Bridges was reminded of the filmmaker's seminal Boogie Nights, seeing another world of rich possibilities in front of him.
WWD
Technology, Globalization Reshape Auction Market in 2017
by Andrew Nodell
A record-shattering auction, with its pulse-racing drama akin to suspenseful theater, garners worldwide attention far beyond that of the high-net-worth bidders. In 2017, the superstar of the market was without question Christie's sale of Leonardo da Vinci's "Salvator Mundi."
The New York Times
What Perfume Are You Wearing? Now You Never Have to Tell
by Rachel Syme
At Perfumarie, you smell scents on tap. The catch? You aren’t allowed to know what they are.
i-D Magazine
an ode to amy sedaris's subversive, slapstick fashion
by Sudi Green
Comedian Sudi Green makes a case for the co-existence of comedy and style.
Lean Luxe
🚨 New Brand Alert: Year and Day. How does this brand stack up against the Snowes and Parachutes of the world?
by M. Paul Munford
Big players Parachute and Snowe are already several years ahead in the home category at this point, but Year and Day makes a case that they too deserve a place at the table -- and fine place settings to match.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"She's So Shy"
Yuji Toriyama
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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