I have no desk anywhere, it’s all in my mind.
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Wearing Dior, Vogue 1952.
(John Rawlings/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Thursday - January 04, 2018 Thu - 01/04/18
rantnrave:// In September 2017, GQ took down a wonderfully reported story on the proliferation of CARTIER sunglasses in DETROIT. SPLINTER reported the story's removal, with GQ saying that the story hadn't gone through proper channels and was inadvertently published. Cached versions of the story were subsequently removed, and some readers speculated that the story had been taken down due to pressure from advertisers. Unfortunately it never resurfaced, until now. RACKED published a version of the story Wednesday, outlining how Cartier sunglasses became a symbol of style and status in Detroit, their mythos and desirability spreading through local culture, with hip hop lyrics carrying the message beyond city limits. Pursuit of the glasses sometimes ended in violence, with Detroit police estimating that in 2010, 15–20 homicides were in some way related to the Cartiers. But beyond the association with crime, I’ve found the story to be as much about people's desire to be recognized—to communicate through style. These stories should be told. Hats off to Racked for picking up the story. Would love to see more reporting on the phenomenon, and for that matter, more reporting on local style in general… In another story about clothing culture, EVELINE CHAO wrote about people's memories growing up in and around Chinese laundries in the US, and it's a fantastic read for how it sheds light on the immigrant experience across generations... Briefs: TERRY RICHARDSON is under investigation by the NYPD, and BRUCE WEBER denies allegations of sexual harassment... DIOR HOMME’s denim collection… BOLT THREADS closes series D.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
golden sun
Atlas Obscura
How Childhoods Spent in Chinese Laundries Tell the Story of America
by Eveline Chao
The laundromat: a place to play, grow up, and live out memories both bitter and sweet.
The Business of Fashion
JD.com’s Richard Liu Decodes the Chinese Consumer
by Imran Amed
The JD.com founder and chief executive talks to BoF about the rapidly changing tastes and preferences of Chinese fashion and luxury consumers.
Racked
Cartier Kings
by Zach Goldbaum
Darryle Miller was just 20 years old in the summer of 2010 when he was killed for his Cartier sunglasses. Known to his mom as Little Darryle, the 6'6" former high school basketball star from Detroit had taken a 30-minute drive to Somerset Collection mall in Troy, Michigan earlier that summer to purchase the $2,400 pair of Cartier C Décor white buffalo horn frames, better known simply as "White Buffs."
Fashionista
The 'Phantom Thread' Costume Designer Consulted With Daniel Day Lewis — in Character — on the Movie's Sumptuous Gowns
by Fawnia Soo Hoo
In writer-director Paul Thomas Anderson's period film "Phantom Thread," British couturier Reynolds Woodcock (Daniel Day Lewis, in his final role before.
Racked
Why Makeup Matters to Women in Prison
by Marlen Komar
In 1908 guards stormed into a cell in Milan, tearing away bed sheets, flipping over mattresses, and yanking off pillowcases for a piece of contraband that had left the warden mystified for the preceding couple of weeks. The prisoner stood to the side, patiently watching her cell get turned inside out, her cheeks painted in cheerful red circles like a ballerina.
The Business of Fashion
Michèle in Lamyland
by Tim Blanks
How Michèle Lamy fused boxing, art and fashion for a knockout intervention at London’s Selfridges.
The New York Times
Lord & Taylor, WeWork and the Death of Leisure
by Ginia Bellafante
The sale of the department store’s flagship Fifth Avenue building marks the end of shopping as fun, and the rise of work as a way of life.
Footwear News
A Look Inside a Counterfeit Factory Making Off-White x Nike Sneakers
by Riley Jones
Counterfeit manufacturers are taking advantage of the limited supply and ever-increasing demand.
SURFACE
Dion Lee Is Having a Moment
by Shyam Patel
Surface sits down with the Australian designer as he takes Manhattan by storm with his first menswear and eyewear collections.
Interview Magazine
David LaChapelle gives us a tour of his Interview legacy
by Trey Taylor
The photo surrealist looks back through his past work as he releases his two final books-a dual compendium of the cult of celebrity through the years.
white buffs
GeekWire
Amazon’s blended-reality mirror shows you wearing virtual clothes in virtual locales
by Alan Boyle
How would that glitzy cocktail dress look on you when you're on the dance floor at the GeekWire Gala? Now Amazon has a patented technology for that: a blended-reality display that puts your image into a virtual scene, and puts you in a virtual version of the dress.
The Fashion Law
The Nike Flyknit: $1 Billion in Shoes and a Worldwide Legal Onslaught
by Julie Zerbo
Almost 20 years ago, Nike set out to craft a shoe that delivers peak performance for athletes while reducing manufacturing waste in the process.
Bloomberg
The Luxury Sneakers Only You Can Buy
by Justin Mastine-Frost
As an alternative to customers lining up at sneaker stores fighting for the chance to buy a designer shoe that only a few people have, Mark Gainor and Jimmy Gorecki are offering something even more exclusive: a kick designed for you, and you alone.
WWD
What Net Neutrality Means for E-Commerce, Consumers, Retail
by Elizabeth Doupnik
The Federal Communications Commission's vote to repeal net neutrality continues to make waves as politicians and executives voice concerns regarding the various repercussions of the decision. The retail market stands to undergo a massive upheaval under the ruling.
The New York Times
The Hospital Gown Gets a Modest Makeover
by Valeriya Safronova
The ubiquitous chilly, exposing garment has been redesigned for more style and privacy.
FASHION magazine
Cool Girl Life Advice from Brother Vellies’ Aurora James
by Isabel Slone
From her commitment to running an ethical fashion brand to her joyful attitude, James is just the kind of girl we want to be for 2018.
Marketplace
The retail industry is taking a cue from coal country
by David Brancaccio
Retail workers are banding together to amplify their voices.
WWD
The Once-Polarizing Scrunchie Makes Its Way Back to Fashion
by Misty White Sidell
What comes around goes around, even for the objects that adorn the tops of our heads. With that, fashion followers have extended a warm "welcome back" to one of the Eighties' most polarizing accessories: The Scrunchie.
Jing Daily
Master Bao Receives 10M RMB Investment as China’s Luxury Servicing Market Eyes Growth
by Jiani Ma
Maintenance of luxury items is undoubtedly in great need. However, repairing and restoring delicate luxury items is never an easy job.
Vogue
He’s Reynolds Woodcock, Too: Interviewing Phantom Thread’s Costume Designer Mark Bridges
by Nicole Phelps
Costume designer Mark Bridges has worked with Paul Thomas Anderson for 22 years on a number of the director's films, including Boogie Nights, There Will Be Blood, and Inherent Vice. But their collaboration on Phantom Thread, Anderson's chamber piece about a mid-century London dressmaker, portrayed by Daniel Day-Lewis, proved unique.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Socha"
Tanishk Bagchi, Jubin Nautiyal, and Neeti Mohan
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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