The most important thing, after identifying the positioning of the brand, is attracting the right people. People are at the center of everything in the fashion industry, not just in terms of product, but in terms of creativity and business.
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Long shadow. Models at a skating rink, Jan. 1, 1958.
(Loomis Dean/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images)
Friday - January 05, 2018 Fri - 01/05/18
rantnrave:// The off-price sector is fascinating to watch, but I sometimes wish for more segmentation in reports on the market. Off-price and resale retailers vary greatly in the customers they serve, how they obtain goods, and whether they're selling true overstock or a combination of overstock and outlet-specific goods. It'd be great to see the amount of surplus clothing over time and how much of that actually gets funneled into third-party (or a company's own) off-price retailers. BOF and MCKINSEY shared some fascinating statistics on off-price in their 2018 trends report, citing that two-thirds of shoppers in the US purchased from an off-price retailer in 2016. Thursday, TJX was downgraded by WELLS FARGO, citing a possible slowdown in the off-price market. With companies like THE OUTNET, THEREALREAL, YOOX, and department outlet stores now a regular part of the retail fashion landscape, MSRPs don’t feel reliably stable across a narrow in-season window, especially when people regularly shop multiple seasons at once. For emerging designers, the landscape can seem hard to break in to with all the noise and markdown cycles. It certainly increases the need for distilled, purposeful collections. With all the price flux, I wonder if off-price companies will experiment with algorithmic pricing as a way of acknowledging the market's pace... ABASI ROSBOROUGH has a sale up on GRAILED featuring limited edition and archive pieces. There’s a great interview with founders ABDUL ABASI and GREG ROSBOROUGH where they discuss the label's origins and staying true to their vision. There's some on-point styling happening in the accompanying editorial, self-photographed and art-directed by the designers. Shoutout to Greg for mentioning CLOAK, a menswear label formerly designed by ALEXANDRE PLOKHOV. It's a brand people still talk about despite the final collection having been shown over 10 years ago. If you haven’t heard of it, there are runway images available via VOGUE RUNWAY, and the documentary SEAMLESS follows Plokhov (and other contestants, including JACK MCCULLOUGH and LAZARO HERNANDEZ of PROENZA SCHOULER) in the run-up to the VOGUE/CFDA FASHION FUND. It's a classic. Definitely one to see if you haven't already... Briefs: NATHAN JENDEN is returning to DVF as chief design officer... Ex-COLETTE staffers launch a new concept store... Inflatable fashion from TANK.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
sundial
Grailed
Clothing is Communication: Abasi Rosborough for Grailed
Clothing is Communication: Abasi Rosborough for Grailed Clothing is Communication: Abasi Rosborough for Grailed For starters, why don't you guys introduce yourselves and tell me what exactly you do. Greg Rosborough: Hey, I'm Greg Rosborough. For the company we both do a bit of everything -- there's a lot of overlap -- not such rigidly defined roles.
The Business of Fashion
Marco Bizzarri on How Gucci's Company Culture Fuels Business Success
by Imran Amed
The Gucci chief executive talks to BoF about how a culture of purpose and new ways of working underpin the brand’s impressive turnaround.
Racked
Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie Only Wears Nigerian Designers
by Ngozi Ekeledo
Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie is one of Nigeria's most prominent faces. She's the author of Americanah and We Should All Be Feminists, winner of the O. Henry Prize and the National Book Critics Circle Award, and the recipient of a MacArthur Genius Grant. Her accomplishments are staggering.
Quartz
Target, Zara, and others have agreed to map their Chinese factories’ pollution in real time
by Marc Bain
The map shows the official supplier factories for brands, and what sort of pollution each is producing, practically in real time.
Glossy
Carmen Busquets: 'The big luxury groups learned their lessons' after underestimating technology
by Hilary Milnes
Through her career as an angel investor for fashion e-commerce companies, Carmen Busquets has made a more than $50 million bet that the future of fashion will be determined by technology.
South China Morning Post
Poggy, Tokyo fashion arbiter, talks about the end of street style
by Vincenzo La Torre
Tokyo-based menswear guru, street style star and retail maven Motofumi ‘Poggy’ Kogi talks style versus fashion, Japanese fashion, and what caught his ear in Hong Kong, including buzz about firm that made Bruce Lee’s underwear.
The Business of Fashion
How Ryan Seacrest Went From American Idol to Selling $50 Million Worth of Menswear a Year
by Lauren Sherman and Chantal Fernandez
The mega entertainer is parlaying his on-camera success into a lifestyle empire that already includes a popular fashion brand. His next challenge? Getting ‘regular’ guys to buy into beauty.
Hypebeast
Feng Chen Wang Is the Designer Ending 'Made in China' Stigma
by Jason Dike
Speaking to the Nike-approved designer before London Fashion Week Men's.
Fashionista
Copenhagen Cool-Girl Label Saks Potts Is Going Global
by Maria Bobila
The brand's designers are sure to capture more fans around the globe with plans to show in New York and Paris next month.
AnOther
The New, Sustainable Denim Line You Need to Know
by Maisie Skidmore
Le Kilt’s snappy debut denim collection makes a powerful case for buying less, and buying better - and it's available to shop right now
long tail
Grailed
The Corruption of Techwear: Fashion Design, Cyberpunk Media and Orientalism
by Leslie Zhang
The Corruption of Techwear: Fashion Design, Cyberpunk Media and Orientalism The Corruption of Techwear: Fashion Design, Cyberpunk Media and Orientalism Follow Leslie on Instagram here . Techno-orientalism helped birth speculative fiction and cyberpunk, which have undeniably influenced techwear's development.
Very Good Light
Everything you need to know about Seoul's most famous skin clinic
by David Yi
What's it like to go to Seoul for an absolute skincare makeover? One writer heads to Oracle Clinic to find it's like an eerie episode of Black Mirror.
The Fashion Law
Christian Sirirano Reponds to $10 Million Lawsuit With One of His Own
by TFL
Red carpet darling and New York Fashion Week mainstay Christian Siriano has a reputation to uphold, which is precisely why the brand decided to pull out of a licensing deal late last year.
Sportswear International.com
Interview: Alibaba: The world is not enough
by Melanie Gropler
Alibaba continues to expand. The company’s investment in Asia is almost unrivaled and it is also spending in Europe to gain market share. Here, Karl Wehner, managing director of Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Eastern Europe and Turkey at Alibaba Group, explains what to expect from the e-commerce giant in the future.
Quartz
How Amazon is trying to become the 'everyday store' for Indians
by Ananya Bhattacharya
Amazon wants to become a habit for Indians by getting into their pantry.
Bloomberg
What Gap and J. Crew Can Learn From the Grocery Aisle
by Sarah Halzack
Many of the titans of America's apparel industry are not exactly dressed for success right now. Ascena Retail Group Inc., the corporate parent of Ann Taylor and Loft, saw its stock tumble more than 60 percent in 2017 amid sagging sales.
Highsnobiety
How Jordan Brand Is Stepping Out of Michael Jordan's Shadow
by Pete Forester
There was a moment this year when Jordan Brand fell behind adidas as the second most valuable sneaker company in the country. It wasn't exactly a shock purely because adidas was having a really good couple of years and dominating the conversation in the sneaker community.
Sixth Tone
Vintage in Vogue: Patriotic Ladies Revive ‘Qipao’ Dress
by Joyce Siu
The Chinese fashion symbol from the ’20s and ’30s is making a comeback at the hands of affluent middle-aged women.
The Fashion Spot
Diversity Report: The Magazine Covers Have Spoken, 2017 Was Fashion's Most Inclusive Year Yet
by Cordelia Tai
2017 was the first year in which the runways, ad campaigns and top international fashion magazine covers all passed the 30 percent racial diversity marker.
Indiewire
‘Phantom Thread’: How Paul Thomas Anderson’s Costume Designer Channeled Reynolds Woodcock
by Bill Desowitz
Working with star Daniel Day-Lewis, costume designer Mark Bridges could win his second Oscar with this love poem to fashion statements.
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