Instead of just trying to 'do less bad,' we need to change the way we make and use clothes so that their production and use builds economic, societal and natural capital rather than depleting it. | | | | Blood Brother A/W 2018, BFC Fashion Space, London. Jan. 8, 2018.
(Tristan Fewings/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “Instead of just trying to 'do less bad,' we need to change the way we make and use clothes so that their production and use builds economic, societal and natural capital rather than depleting it.”
| - | Dame Ellen MacArthur, 2017 |
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| | rantnrave:// MILAN MEN'S FASHION WEEK begins today, and the first show on the calendar is ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. I've enjoyed watching Zegna under artistic director ALESSANDRO SARTORI, who returned to the company from BERLUTI in February 2016. Zegna seems to have renewed energy, with a focus on the 21st-century Zegna customer while staying true to its identity as a company known for tailoring and fine fabric for over a century. Traditional suiting has survived—some are more enthusiastic about it than ever—but as a uniform required for business or formality, it's pulled back into a niche. I like Zegna right now for its approach, from pushing more flexible production to working on innovative textiles. It's vertically-integrated from "farm to finish," and the focus on bringing in-house specialties to changing dress codes shows. Take the Spring 2018 show, with blazers that weighed less than 200 grams and a printed cashmere coat in one of the label's signature fabrics. No less beautiful, no less focus on heritage and materials. In short, no less luxury for the smartphone era. Or at least, that's what customers must hope. There's a telling moment from CHARLIE PORTER's interview (FT paywall) with Sartori, where the designer pulls out his IPHONE to show an old loom repurposed to weave leather for a new line. I can't think of a better picture of fashion today: streaming video of an old loom via smartphone... Per WWD, PRADA is moving its men's show to a company warehouse near its headquarters. I'm intrigued by the "Prada Invites" project, which, per the company, shifts focus to the "industrial side" of the brand's identity. Prada asked four architects and designers to reimagine its heritage material: nylon. Fascinating project given that the brand's nylon slings and backpacks have been coming back as vintage pieces. Prada is another powerhouse Italian label to watch as it continues to expand online efforts and move with 21st-century customers... In brief: Talking watches with AZIZ ANSARI... KERING spins off PUMA... Bygone beauty hacks... Wearables at CES... FashionREDEF is off for MARTIN LUTHER KING DAY and will return Tuesday. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | Racked |
| Joe Duff, CEO of Operation Migration, is not the only conservationist to wear a uniform to work. But instead of the khakis and polos that serve to show that humans are all part of the same team, his uniform helps him blend in among a flock of whooping cranes. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| The men’s wear brand, now owned by an Italian’s holding company, showcased pieces from its past as well as a new collection. | | |
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 | The Business of Fashion |
| One of the world’s leading thinkers on the circular economy speaks to BoF about the growing momentum among fashion companies to commit to the principles of this restorative and regenerative movement. | | |
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 | Nautilus |
| An argument for a new definition of color. | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| Companies like "Nylon," "Complex" and "DuJour" are already fans, while celebrities are on board, too. Is this the new frontier? | | |
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 | British Vogue |
| When Alessandro Michele decided to do up the Gucci Museo next to Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, it had to have the world's best gift shop. "I wanted to buy something walking through it just now, because I worked on all these things on my iPad and now they've come alive," the Gucci designer admitted on Tuesday afternoon after he'd declared the building open for business. | | |
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 | Document Journal |
| With his print-laden Fall/Winter 2018 show behind him, Edward Crutchley was able to catch up with Document's Alice Lefons at London Men's Fashion Week and discuss why he doesn't differentiate his designs by gender, and why ancient cultural symbols and emojis have more in common than you'd think. | | |
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 | Glossy |
| Off-White's "For All" collection, released Monday, is an eight-piece line of apparel that sells for less than a third of like styles in the original Off-White collection. For All prices range between $95 and $170, while Off-White's T-shirts and sweatshirts sell for much more, between $300 and $800. | | |
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 | Digiday |
| The new site section, which required "GQ" to overhaul its metadata and tagging strategy, is the publisher's second step toward more commerce revenue. | | |
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 | Very Good Light |
| Seoul's top plastic surgery clinic, Oracle Clinic, is part of South Korea's $5 billion economy. One doctor gives an author suggestions for his face. | | |
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 | The Cut |
| Before Marine Serre even had a business, she had created a brand. | | |
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 | Put This On |
| If your tastes steer toward the classics, it's a been a great decade or more for sneakers. Nike's constant churn of retros from every era, the renewed popularity of Stan Smiths, Converse's 70s chucks, and so on. | | |
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 | Paper |
| The rising fashion star talks the city's momentum and his new magazine, "Bully." | | |
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| Racked |
| The pants were two sizes too big and hung low around my hips. I didn't own a belt, so I folded the extra fabric and used safety pins to keep it in place. My boss said she'd get me a new pair soon, but in the year I worked at McDonald's, I mostly wore uniforms that were too big. | | |
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 | AnOther |
| The Parisian couturier broke the mold putting his name to products from food-mixers to sardines, writes Alexander Fury -- and he would not be the last to do so. | | |
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 | Wallpaper* Magazine |
| Hong Kong has no shortage of luxury stores, but Hermès' newest flagship sets a vertiginous new benchmark for ultra-refined interiors without the bling that plagues many sartorial ventures across the city. | | |
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 | SSENSE |
| Julia Cooper speaks to Tala Samman about pioneering the beauty blog in Dubai. | | |
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| Digiday |
| "Honestly, the only reason to sell on Amazon is if you’re a commodity or your competitors are on it." | | |
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 | The Fashion Law |
| My Other Bag ("MOB") was hoping to land a nearly $1 million payday in connection with the lawsuit that Louis Vuitton filed against it in June 2014, but instead, it has been handed a striking loss. | | |
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 | Forbes |
| Tech may be fashionable, but can fashion be driven by tech? Certainly fashion has moved into ecommerce in a big way, representing some $80 billion in online sales. Might a fashion brand be built for the digital world? Adam Goldenberg, Co-Founder and Co-CEO of TechStyle Fashion Group says yes. | | |
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 | YouTube |
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