If fashion is going to have this moment — which, there are so many people who don’t want it to, and others who think it needs to — it is the tip of the iceberg.
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Claim your baggage. Fendi A/W 2018, Milan Men's Fashion Week, Jan. 15, 2018.
(Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
Tuesday - January 16, 2018 Tue - 01/16/18
rantnrave:// In the NYC subway system, there are public signs posted as a reminder: “If you see something, say something.” When I first saw the signs I was given to chuckling, because without context, the slogan seems ridiculous. As human beings we see something all the time—even in dreams, even when we lack sight in the traditional sense. So given no context, and knowing that I see all the time, would I say something every moment of every day? What would I say? Of course, we know better. The slogan was written by advertising executive ALLEN KAY after 9/11, as part of the METROPOLITAN TRANSIT AUTHORITY’s push to increase public awareness for reporting suspicious activity. Although some say it risks making people feel surveilled or paranoid, at its heart, the slogan was meant to convey a sense of vigilance and empowerment—a civic responsibility for the safety of others. This has been a glaring issue in recent allegations of sexual abuse in the fashion industry. How can the industry change systemic conditions that have incentivized people to stay quiet for years, to look the other way, or to normalize the behavior? On Saturday, the NYT published male models' allegations of sexual exploitation by renowned fashion photographers MARIO TESTINO and BRUCE WEBER. Several companies cut ties with the photographers, and CONDÉ NAST released a formal code of conduct for working with models. While laudable, the measures are largely reactive, occurring sometimes decades or years after the alleged misconduct. Policy is an important step, yet the industry must also deal with the deeply embedded cultural side of the problem, which involves normative behavior, values, and incentives. What more can be done to prevent problems rather than react?… MILAN MEN’S FASHION WEEK was on over the weekend, and PRADA went industrial for A/W 2018, referencing warehouse logistics, prints from collections past, and a company signature: nylon. MIUCCIA PRADA spoke to VESTOJ about authenticity and the compromises faced running a large-scale enterprise. It would be great if more could be so candid… In brief: CVS pledges to end "materially altering" its beauty images... RIP NABILE QUENEM.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
blowup
The New York Times
Male Models Say Mario Testino and Bruce Weber Sexually Exploited Them
by Jacob Bernstein, Matthew Schneier and Vanessa Friedman
Models and assistants described how Mr. Testino and Mr. Weber, two of the most prominent photographers in fashion, used their authority to engage in unwanted sexual behavior.
Vestoj
Branding Anarchy
by Anja Aronowsky Cronberg and Anna Akbari
A conversation with Miuccia Prada, head designer of Prada and founder of Miu Miu.
Them
Fashion’s #MeToo? A Casting Director on What’s Next for the Modeling Industry
by Phillip Picardi
James Scully speaks about the New York Times investigation into Bruce Weber and Mario Testino.
South China Morning Post
Fashion’s favourite architect, Masamichi Katayama of Wonderwall, on the role of store design in luring shoppers
by Giselle Go
He made a splash with A Bathing Ape, designed Uniqlo stores around the world, and worked for the likes of Thom Browne and Pierre Hermé; reading the potential shopper’s subconscious mind is his secret, Japanese designer says.
WWD
Model Christopher Cates Pens Letter Calling for Action Against Harassment
by WWD Staff
As the uproar continues over sexual harassment in industries stretching from entertainment to media to finance, the fashion world has remained relatively on the sidelines - until now. On Saturday, The New York Times published a long-rumored story about alleged harassment of male models by the photographers Bruce Weber and Mario Testino.
The New York Times
Zegna Gives Fashion an Anatomy Lesson
by Guy Trebay
At the fall 2018 show in Milan, Alessandro Sartori presented an impeccably tailored collection for the well-funded man.
Fashionista
Factory Tour: Rhode Island's Lotuff Leather Aspires to Be the American Hermès
by Whitney Bauck
Welcome to our new series, Factory Tour, in which we're taking you inside the manufacturing facilities of some of our favorite brands to find out how the clothes we buy are actually made. Next up: Providence, Rhode Island-based leather goods company Lotuff Leather.
Korea Joong Ang Daily
Dongdaemun: An old market learns some new tricks
by Song Kyoung-Son
People in Dongdaemun, central Seoul start their day after the sun sets. The neighborhood is unlike anywhere else in Seoul. Shoppers, motorcycles and small trucks rapidly move around the narrow brightly-lit alleys, all carrying huge vinyl bags stuffed with clothes.
The Business of Fashion
At Pitti, a Case for Creation
by Angelo Flaccavento
This season’s centrepiece, a show uniting Japanese designers Jun Takahashi and Takahiro Miyashita, made a compelling case for genuine creation in dull, hype-driven times, reports Angelo Flaccavento.
Dazed Digital
Gosha Rubchinskiy breaks down his latest show
by Emma Hope Allwood
From the clothes and the casting to his collaboration with a legendary Russian artist.
blowout
Vogue
Can Young Designers’ Ethics Impact the Establishment? The International Woolmark Prize Winners Are Leading the Way
by Sarah Mower
The International Woolmark Prize discovered a couple of young designers who went on to reshape the fashion world: Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, back in 1953, its inception. Sixty-five years on, the powerful Australian sheep growers organization awarded Ruchika Sachdeva from New Delhi AUS $200,000 for her women's collection, Bodice, a bellwether for a new-generational kind of change.
Los Angeles Times
Found on Instagram, sold on Alibaba: Even the smallest brands are now the victims of counterfeiting
by David Pierson
Team Dream is a small business by most any measure. The quirky cycling apparel brand has just five employees. It produces only about 100 pieces of each garment and operates out of a converted gas station in San Marino, where a closet-sized nook doubles as both a fulfillment center and R&D lab.
Quartzy
Riding gear is the original athleisure
by Noël Duan
Equestrianism-and its upper class style-is a trend long embraced even by those who don’t ride horses.
The Fashion Law
Delphine Arnault: The Quiet Force Charting a New Era for LVMH
by TFL
In a January 2009 earnings call, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chairman Bernard Arnault announced that the Paris-based conglomerate would largely do away with the famed Toile Monogram of its top-earning brand. Following (another) six months of slow growth in 2008, in particular, Arnault vowed tha
Town & Country
The True Story of Gianni Versace's Murder
by Nancy Bilyeau
It was a twisted tale of sex, drugs, and a serial killer on the run that ultimately ended in the death of a fashion icon. How did Versace's assassin get away with his murder—and what drove him to do it in the first place?
Glossy
How luxury brands are melding stores in China with Chinese tech platforms
by Hilary Milnes
With assists from technology partners, including Alibaba, JD.com and WeChat, luxury brands including Ralph Lauren, Coach and Louis Vuitton are updating store experiences by linking online campaigns to in-store purchases, arming store employees with digital customer profiles and connecting store inventory to online purchases.
Harper's Bazaar
Iman: The Dress That Changed My Life
by Iman and Natasha Silva-Jelly
The model reveals the one dress that changed her life—and how it transcended time.
Sixth Tone
Why We Should Mourn the Demise of China's Fake-Goods Hunters
by Tao Lixing
Counterfeit-busting vigilantes are an important check on businesses, even if their work sometimes has unintended legal outcomes.
Jing Daily
Fashion Retailers in China Go Cashier-free Using Facial Recognition
by Jiani Ma
Payment technology is already more seamless in China. Will the country also lead the world in high-tech retail experiences?
Bloomberg
No One Wants Your Used Clothes Anymore
by Adam Minter
For decades, the donation bin has offered consumers in rich countries a guilt-free way to unload their old clothing. In a virtuous and profitable cycle, a global network of traders would collect these garments, grade them, and transport them around the world to be recycled, worn again, or turned into rags and stuffing.
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