Showing a suit at a men’s wear presentation may not seem like a radical proposition until you remember that the suit has become the Uncle Bernie of fashion, a corpse propped up in the back seat of the convertible and driven around town. | | Louis Vuitton A/W 2018. Paris Men's Fashion Week, Jan. 18, 2018. (Dominique Charriau/WireImage/Getty Images) | | | | “Showing a suit at a men’s wear presentation may not seem like a radical proposition until you remember that the suit has become the Uncle Bernie of fashion, a corpse propped up in the back seat of the convertible and driven around town.” |
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| rantnrave:// One of the great things about fashion is the sense of fresh possibility, of embarkment. Each season sets off a new sensibility and a suggestion for how people may want to communicate—and dress themselves—in the near future. It's also been viewed as a wheel turning too fast, a brute force where nothing but change is certain. PARIS FASHION WEEK continued on Thursday with a stellar final show from KIM JONES at LOUIS VUITTON. I'm still thinking about MILAN MEN'S FASHION WEEK, where there seemed to be a desire for new possibilities and a sense that the world (and thus the market) is in flux. Companies like ARMANI, FENDI, PRADA, VERSACE, and ZEGNA are measuring legacy against novelty. And there's a lot of novelty to be had: influencers, new gadgets, startups, software solutions, the latest update to algo feeds, we could go on. Legacy can sometimes be viewed as stalwart or slow-footed in an era when an entire collection, labored on for six months, can be loaded onto a screen in milliseconds. Yet legacy should be viewed as a core strength—and it can evolve. There's a fine line between reinterpreting and reissuing the past. I like the intermingling of storied Italian houses with designers just starting out. In Milan, designers showed a balancing act between heritage—from Prada's signature nylon to Ermenegildo Zegna's cashmere—and evolution. FashionSET: Legacy and Frontiers: Milan Men's Fashion Week A/W 2018... VOGUE ESPAÑA's GUCCI ARCADE came through our suggested links, and it's a retro-futuristic, interactive (and, key feature: shoppable!) project that is very different from the typical, CMS-loaded layouts we're accustomed to seeing online. And that's why it's great... CATHY HORYN writes that FX’s VERSACE TV drama lacks some of the fun embodied by the true Versace family. Horyn links to her 1997 VANITY FAIR profile of Donatella, and it's a wonderful look back on family dynamics at a dynastic fashion house... Briefs: The full restoration of these 1994 CHICAGO II sneakers blew my mind. Enthusiasts are doing the work of pro conservators and then some... OAMC sells a stake to ONWARD LUXURY GROUP... DAZED readers respond to how fashion should change. | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| | The New York Times |
Giorgio Armani, Prada and Fendi proved that men’s fashion has the power to surprise. | |
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| British Vogue |
From Prada to Versace and Fendi, designers tackled the strange times we live in head-on. | |
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| The Cut |
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| Vanity Fair |
Tagged as her brother’s “muse,” Donatella Versace is a growing power in Gianni’s global fashion empire, with a style--the 20-carat diamond ring, the neon-orange toenails, the constant full-lipped embrace of a cigarette--that is as fabulous and as utterly honest as she is. | |
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| The New York Times |
How the fastest growing designer in men’s wear built a big business in no time flat by selling his customers on a dream: That they, too, could shred. | |
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| Highsnobiety |
By now most of you have probably heard about H&M's latest scandal. The fallout for H&M seems to have been quick and has resulted in the termination of at least two celebrity partnerships. A commensurate apology and deletion of the offending image by the Swedish retailer followed soon after. | |
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| The Business of Fashion |
Times’s also up for fashion’s institutional exclusion and workplace suppression of black designers, argues Kibwe Chase-Marshall. | |
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| Racked |
The first time I found a stray men's tie in my wife Amanda's backseat, I imagined that one of her coworkers had perhaps ripped it off in a fit of rage after a trial and forgotten it. Then the suit coats started piling up, all slightly stylistically out-of-date and hanging off plastic hangers. | |
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| Quartzy |
Less than two decades ago, if you lived in North America and wanted to buy a French skincare product-say, Bioderma micellar water, a favorite of Gwyneth Paltrow's --you had to ask a friend, probably a close one, to bring back a few bottles from Paris. | |
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| Vogue |
Exactly two hours and 40 minutes," Simon Porte Jacquemus replies, without blinking an eye, when you ask him how long it takes from the moment the fast train pulls out of Avignon, near his tiny hometown of Mallemort in southeastern France, until it reaches Paris's Gare de Lyon. | |
| | Real Life |
If memes follow the logic of fashion, why not the other way around? | |
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| SSENSE |
Fashion’s relationship to coding is ever-growing and Arabelle Sicardi is on the case. | |
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| INDIE Magazine |
Raw Seoul streetwear brand RUTHLESS combines Hip Hop's golden era with the glory days of the '90s to bring womenswear with attitude to the streetwear scene. | |
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| The Fashion Law |
Sixty-four fashion companies, ranging from mass-market giants like Zara, H&M, and Target to Kering, Reformation, Ganni, and adidas have vowed to do more. In particular, each of the fashion companies has outlined specific goals to increase the sustainability of their production over the next two years. | |
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| Bloomberg |
Adidas, Nike and Puma are using wool in sneakers and clothing. | |
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| Garage Magazine |
Entrepreneurial hypebeasts are turning dream collaboration sneakers into unauthorized realities. | |
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| Core77 |
Nike just announced a 10-pair sneaker collection completely designed by 14 female Nike designers, all working on either Nike's color and materials team or sneaker design team. Drawing inspiration from two of Nike's most iconic sneaker silhouettes-the Air Force 1 and Air Jordan 1-the designers were put to work creating. | |
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| Quartz |
China's luxury market is thriving again, and millennials are leading the way. | |
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| Wallpaper* Magazine |
Wallpaper* takes an exclusive look with CEO Alexandre Arnaultand chief brand officer Hector Muelas. | |
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| Glossy |
All this see-what-sticks schedule shifting is indicative of the industry's ongoing sea change: Customers are in charge, and the traditional fashion calendar, which prioritized wholesale relationships, is out of sync with their behavior. | |
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