Showing a suit at a men’s wear presentation may not seem like a radical proposition until you remember that the suit has become the Uncle Bernie of fashion, a corpse propped up in the back seat of the convertible and driven around town.
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2018. Paris Men's Fashion Week, Jan. 18, 2018.
(Dominique Charriau/WireImage/Getty Images)
Friday - January 19, 2018 Fri - 01/19/18
rantnrave:// One of the great things about fashion is the sense of fresh possibility, of embarkment. Each season sets off a new sensibility and a suggestion for how people may want to communicate—and dress themselves—in the near future. It's also been viewed as a wheel turning too fast, a brute force where nothing but change is certain. PARIS FASHION WEEK continued on Thursday with a stellar final show from KIM JONES at LOUIS VUITTON. I'm still thinking about MILAN MEN'S FASHION WEEK, where there seemed to be a desire for new possibilities and a sense that the world (and thus the market) is in flux. Companies like ARMANI, FENDI, PRADA, VERSACE, and ZEGNA are measuring legacy against novelty. And there's a lot of novelty to be had: influencers, new gadgets, startups, software solutions, the latest update to algo feeds, we could go on. Legacy can sometimes be viewed as stalwart or slow-footed in an era when an entire collection, labored on for six months, can be loaded onto a screen in milliseconds. Yet legacy should be viewed as a core strength—and it can evolve. There's a fine line between reinterpreting and reissuing the past. I like the intermingling of storied Italian houses with designers just starting out. In Milan, designers showed a balancing act between heritage—from Prada's signature nylon to Ermenegildo Zegna's cashmere—and evolution. FashionSET: Legacy and Frontiers: Milan Men's Fashion Week A/W 2018... VOGUE ESPAÑA's GUCCI ARCADE came through our suggested links, and it's a retro-futuristic, interactive (and, key feature: shoppable!) project that is very different from the typical, CMS-loaded layouts we're accustomed to seeing online. And that's why it's great... CATHY HORYN writes that FX’s VERSACE TV drama lacks some of the fun embodied by the true Versace family. Horyn links to her 1997 VANITY FAIR profile of Donatella, and it's a wonderful look back on family dynamics at a dynastic fashion house... Briefs: The full restoration of these 1994 CHICAGO II sneakers blew my mind. Enthusiasts are doing the work of pro conservators and then some... OAMC sells a stake to ONWARD LUXURY GROUP... DAZED readers respond to how fashion should change.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
arcades
The New York Times
Milan Is Still Making It New
by Guy Trebay
Giorgio Armani, Prada and Fendi proved that men’s fashion has the power to surprise.
British Vogue
At The Milan Men’s Shows, Designers Remain Hopeful In A Dystopian Climate
by Anders Christian Madsen
From Prada to Versace and Fendi, designers tackled the strange times we live in head-on.
The Cut
'The Assassination of Gianni Versace' Gets the Versace Family All Wrong
by Cathy Horyn
It misses all the fun.
Vanity Fair
RETRO READ: La Bella Donatella
by Cathy Horyn
Tagged as her brother’s “muse,” Donatella Versace is a growing power in Gianni’s global fashion empire, with a style--the 20-carat diamond ring, the neon-orange toenails, the constant full-lipped embrace of a cigarette--that is as fabulous and as utterly honest as she is.
The New York Times
Are You Ready to (Dress Like You) Rock?
by Matthew Schneier
How the fastest growing designer in men’s wear built a big business in no time flat by selling his customers on a dream: That they, too, could shred.
Highsnobiety
Why Fashion Can't Stop Making Offensive Gaffes
by Jon Moy
By now most of you have probably heard about H&M's latest scandal. The fallout for H&M seems to have been quick and has resulted in the termination of at least two celebrity partnerships. A commensurate apology and deletion of the offending image by the Swedish retailer followed soon after.
The Business of Fashion
Why Aren't There More Black Designers?
by Kibwe Chase-Marshall
Times’s also up for fashion’s institutional exclusion and workplace suppression of black designers, argues Kibwe Chase-Marshall.
Racked
When Being a Good Lawyer Means Dressing Your Clients
by Bea Bischoff
The first time I found a stray men's tie in my wife Amanda's backseat, I imagined that one of her coworkers had perhaps ripped it off in a fit of rage after a trial and forgotten it. Then the suit coats started piling up, all slightly stylistically out-of-date and hanging off plastic hangers.
Quartzy
Amazon is the insider secret for global beauty fanatics
by Noël Duan
Less than two decades ago, if you lived in North America and wanted to buy a French skincare product-say, Bioderma micellar water, a favorite of Gwyneth Paltrow's --you had to ask a friend, probably a close one, to bring back a few bottles from Paris.
Vogue
How Jacquemus Is Taking The Fashion World By Storm
by Lynn Yaeger
Exactly two hours and 40 minutes," Simon Porte Jacquemus replies, without blinking an eye, when you ask him how long it takes from the moment the fast train pulls out of Avignon, near his tiny hometown of Mallemort in southeastern France, until it reaches Paris's Gare de Lyon.
pachinko
Real Life
Sharper Image
by Rina Nkulu
If memes follow the logic of fashion, why not the other way around?
SSENSE
Dress-Coding
by Arabelle Sicardi
Fashion’s relationship to coding is ever-growing and Arabelle Sicardi is on the case.
INDIE Magazine
RUTHLESS is the Seoul Brand Repping a Global Girl Gang
Raw Seoul streetwear brand RUTHLESS combines Hip Hop's golden era with the glory days of the '90s to bring womenswear with attitude to the streetwear scene.
The Fashion Law
Zara, Kering, Ganni, Reformation Vow to Increase Sustainability Efforts by 2020
Sixty-four fashion companies, ranging from mass-market giants like Zara, H&M, and Target to Kering, Reformation, Ganni, and adidas have vowed to do more. In particular, each of the fashion companies has outlined specific goals to increase the sustainability of their production over the next two years.
Bloomberg
Knitted Sneakers Kick Wool Prices to Record Highs
by Rebecca Keenan
Adidas, Nike and Puma are using wool in sneakers and clothing.
Garage Magazine
Bootleggers Are Making Knockoff Designer Sneakers That Don't Even Exist IRL
by Tyler Watamanuk
Entrepreneurial hypebeasts are turning dream collaboration sneakers into unauthorized realities.
Core77
Nike's Research-Driven '1 Reimagined' Collection is Designed by Women, For Women
by Emily Engle
Nike just announced a 10-pair sneaker collection completely designed by 14 female Nike designers, all working on either Nike's color and materials team or sneaker design team. Drawing inspiration from two of Nike's most iconic sneaker silhouettes-the Air Force 1 and Air Jordan 1-the designers were put to work creating.
Quartz
China's luxury sector is back, but it looks very different from 10 years ago
by Marc Bain
China's luxury market is thriving again, and millennials are leading the way.
Wallpaper* Magazine
German luggage label Rimowa celebrates its 120th anniversary with a new visual identity
by Amy Serafin
Wallpaper* takes an exclusive look with CEO Alexandre Arnaultand chief brand officer Hector Muelas.
Glossy
The case against New York Fashion Week
by Hilary Milnes
All this see-what-sticks schedule shifting is indicative of the industry's ongoing sea change: Customers are in charge, and the traditional fashion calendar, which prioritized wholesale relationships, is out of sync with their behavior.
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