Architecture takes five years. In fashion something amazing can be ready in just 24 hours. I’ve always had a slight fashion envy because of that speed. | | | | Hermès A/W 2018/19, Paris Men's Fashion Week, Jan. 20, 2018.
(Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “Architecture takes five years. In fashion something amazing can be ready in just 24 hours. I’ve always had a slight fashion envy because of that speed.”
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| | rantnrave:// HEDI SLIMANE is returning to fashion once again, this time as PHOEBE PHILO's successor at CÉLINE. Slimane has been a lightning rod in recent years, known for PR scuffles and epic TWEET-rants (before that became a sanctioned modus of political communication). It's Hedi of protest parodies: “ain’t LAURENT without YVES.” It's Hedi of banned journalists. But let's leave past controversies for the moment. For LVMH, the appointment looks like a bid for powerhouse growth. Philo’s Céline, despite its pervasive influence from luxury to fast fashion, was focused solely on women's collections. That refinement and scope—collections for a cultivated, urbane customer—could be viewed as a slice of a slice of the potential market. Should the market include everyone when restraint was part of the label's appeal? With Slimane given broad oversight as "artistic, creative, and image director," the company will expand into men's, couture, and fragrances. Call it a commercial decision—the business school version of a pretty sure bet given Slimane's past success driving sales growth for Saint Laurent. But I’ll temper that with sincere fascination for the possibility that Slimane can bring back some of the magic he worked at DIOR HOMME from 2000–2007—not in literal aesthetic, but more in vision and design. Slimane's regal, rock-infused tailoring for Dior Homme forms an impenetrable bedrock of legacy for men's fashion. It still inspires. Philo made Céline covetable for men despite never explicitly designing for them—and that spark could find expression in Slimane's men's collections at Céline. Will we be venturing back to the polarizing days of believers and haters (while cash-voting customers buy it all), from Slimane's Saint Laurent days? What about Céline's reputation as a label designed by a woman innately attuned to what women want to wear? And the question remains as to whether Philo will move to another role in fashion. Near-term, Slimane's takeover ensures Céline is one of the most-watched labels in fashion. Will the legacy Philo built at Céline remain?... Wonderful news that AZZEDINE ALAÏA’s maison will go on, with plans to preserve the late designer's legacy... Briefs: AMAZON GO is open for business... Storage solutions at PRADA... This dress. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | The New York Times |
| Two months after Azzedine Alaïa’s death, his company plots a course for the future. | | |
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 | WWD |
| One of fashion's preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Hedi Slimane is to lead Céline into men's wear, couture and fragrance as its new artistic, creative and image director, WWD has learned. He is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. | | |
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 | Film Comment |
| With elegant force, Paul Thomas Anderson’s Phantom Thread curls round an ineffable, unstable romantic attention without which life is unlivable. | | |
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 | A SHADED VIEW ON FASHION |
| Two spontaneous interviews with up-and-coming designers Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt (Stefan Cooke), as well as Art School's Tom Barratt and Eden Loweth, both were showing with MAN at London Fashion Week a couple of weeks ago. | | |
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 | Retail Dive |
| While the conference showcased plenty of "cool tech," the show overall "felt stuck in a time warp" and needs to innovate faster, writes Christopher Walton. | | |
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 | SURFACE |
| The Beijing native’s high-contrast collection joins two worlds with a dynamic sense of motion. | | |
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 | South China Morning Post |
| China’s celebrity culture has blossomed over the past five years, with stars attending numerous local and international events. Helping them look elegant are celebrity stylists who are becoming famous in their own right. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| Rick Owens continues to do his (own) thing, while Valentino, Off-White and Dries Van Noten try to affect a man’s workaday wardrobe. | | |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| This season Demna paid homage to Margiela and explored the power of appropriation. | | |
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 | Racked |
| In 2014, Schmidt's made its natural deodorants in a 1,200-square-foot facility that had only four employees; a pet turtle lived in the bathroom. It offered its products in jar form, and you could only buy them at farmers markets and natural grocery stores. | | |
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 | T Magazine |
| Rem Koolhaas and Herzog & de Meuron, among others, collaborated with the house to produce pieces in the material for the fall men’s show. | | |
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 | Vogue |
| Fashion hopefuls, time to hustle: Applications for the 2018 LVMH Prize wind down in just under three weeks, on February 4. That's a longer lead time than in the past, notes Delphine Arnault, the founder of the prize and executive vice president of Louis Vuitton. | | |
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 | The California Sunday Magazine |
| How Ruth Carter, the costume designer behind "Selma" and "Malcolm X," fashioned "Black Panther." | | |
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 | The Business of Fashion |
| Today in Paris, Spencer Phipps, a former men’s designer at Dries Van Noten, is launching a new line blending sustainability and slouch. | | |
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 | The Glow Up |
| Here comes New York Fashion Week, again. Everything is about to change-or so it seems-as designers present fashion shows featuring clothes generally intended to break the rules. But one thing rarely, if ever, seems to change, and that’s the absence of black designers occupying top spots in the fashion industry. | | |
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 | Refinery29 |
| The pussyhat may be the strongest symbol of anti-Trump activism, but the controversy surrounding is perfectly mirrors the problems within the movement. | | |
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 | The Fashion Law |
| Who has the final say in cementing what is on-trend in fashion? For many years, that power lied firmly in the fashion industry's esteemed print publications and the editors on their mastheads. | | |
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 | 1 Granary |
| The founder of fashion's favourite social media platform demands more room for the industry's youngest. | | |
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 | Glossy |
| Those watching the runway during NYFW: China Day will be able to shop the runways in the Tmall mobile app as they happen. The shop model mirrors that of Alibaba's Singles' Day see-now-buy-now event: Show attendees and viewers (the China Day shows will be streamed online on Tmall's and CFDA's websites) will be equipped with buy buttons in the Tmall app. | | |
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 | Polyester Magazine |
| Michiko Koshino has been a veteran of the menswear industry since moving to the UK in the 1980s. Along with the new wave of Japanese designers that have forever changed the London fashion scene, Michiko has offered up a new vision for menswear — one that is characterised by experimental silhouettes and a unique streetwear authenticity. | | |
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 | YouTube |
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