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Givenchy Haute Couture S/S 2018, Paris, Jan. 23, 2018.
(Dominique Charriau/WireImage/Getty Images)
Thursday - January 25, 2018 Thu - 01/25/18
rantnrave:// It's the final day of the spring/summer 2018 haute couture season. There have been some stellar shows, proof that the 150-year-old haute couture couture system is still worthy of preservation and attention. If CLARE WAIGHT KELLER had a bit of catching up to do after her coolly received ready-to-wear debut at GIVENCHY, her Spring 2018 couture collection felt like redemption. It was a strong testament to the legacy of HUBERT DE GIVENCHY while retaining a sense for what women wear today. There was sleek, dandified tailoring punctuated with deep color—saturated reds and blues. The collection had the right mix of structure and flow, hard edges and fragility coming together in sharp silhouettes, latex, and feathers. There was harmony in this one. I hope we see more of this sensibility in Givenchy's ready-to-wear collections. VALENTINO has been going from strength to strength under PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI. This season the label's columnar silhouettes and rich colors were present but had given way to a bit more fluidity—it looked to me like the femininity in VALENTINO GARAVANI's designs were even more present... MARGIELA ARTISANAL was one of the best expressions I've seen (other than PROENZA SCHOULER's spring 2013 collection) of our scroll-through, hyper-connected times... RACHEL TASHJIAN writes that CHANEL-heads exhibit the same behavior as any super-fans at COMIC-CON. Agreed. Chanel spring 2018 was about the enjoyment of fashion and renewed optimism. I wondered if, after seeing the self-contained prettiness of KARL LAGERFELD's garden couture show, there might be a return to a kind of conventional prettiness in fashion. There's an odd comfort in it. After it's been parodied and vulgarized in grunge, GOTHIC LOLITA subcultures, and shows like GOSSIP GIRL, would the simplicity of "pretty" speak to the tensions of today?... From fake news to fake sneakers, not everything may be as it seems. Facts are immutable, but with backlash over copying and bootleggers making "knockoffs" with no originals, authenticity—as a matter of style—is up for debate. FashionSET: The Real Thing: Bootlegs, Backlash, and the Borderlands of Authenticity... In brief: Open for business... THE MARK HOTEL is launching an e-commerce site... How WWI brought success to zippers.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
flou
The New York Times
The Book of Clare: Givenchy's Powerful Return to Couture
by Vanessa Friedman
Clare Waight Keller writes a modern narrative, while Giorgio Armani tells a shorts story and John Galliano mythologizes Maison Margiela.
Racked
Congresswomen on Why They'll Wear Black to the State of the Union
by Bryce Covert
Anyone who tunes in to the annual State of the Union on January 30th, when President Donald Trump will address Congress and give an update on his agenda, may notice something different about the audience seated in front of him.
The Business of Fashion
Ronald van der Kemp Builds a Brand His Own Way
by Tim Blanks
The Dutch designer’s label RVDK is the standard-bearer for haute couture's art of glorious one-offs and flights of fancy, celebrating creativity, craft and an obsession with the unique.
Garage Magazine
Chanel Couture is Comic-Con for Fashion Fans
by Rachel Tashjian
Plus: the Chanel Couture show featured no handbags-instead, women strode free and easy with their hands in their pockets.
GQ
High Fashion Has Gone Full Arts-and-Crafts
by Cam Wolf
And it's benefiting your local embroiderer.
The New York Times
All Good Magazines Go to Heaven
by David Shaftel
As print flails, piles of pristine "Vogues," "Playboys" and more are being painstakingly preserved in a former cannon foundry near the Thames.
The Pool
The Real Power Of A Good Compliment
by Ana Kinsella
Acknowledging a friend’s earrings or a stranger’s dress might seem like a passing comment, but it can actually transform the way someone sees themselves, says Ana Kinsella.
Refinery29
RETRO READ: Sporty Spice's Style Evolution Is Nothing Short Of Amazing
by Landon Peoples
From the Spice Girls to Melanie C, Sporty Spice has come a long way in her solo career. We spoke to her about style, her new album, and life post-Spice.
Grailed
Inside ENDYMA: The World's Largest Helmut Lang Archivist Speaks to Grailed
by Gregory Babcock
It's not a secret that archival fashion has undergone a resurgence (hell, if you're reading this, there's a solid chance you've done a little digging right here on Grailed.) As both fans and modern fashion designers draw from the past to fill wardrobes and create looks for the future, the value of truly knowledgeable collectors and archivists cannot be overstated.
The Business of Fashion
Spain and Portugal Reboot the Iberian Fashion Market
by Victoria Berezhna and Graciela Martin
As Spain and Portugal return to pre-crisis growth and tourism levels, who will be the winners and losers as new global players enter the market?
tailleur
The Cut
The Soho Intersection That's Become a Streetwear Destination
by Emilia Petrarca
With stores like Stadium Goods, Billionaire Boys Club, Palace, and Off-White, Mercer and Howard Streets form a new kind of outdoor mall.
Racked
What It's Like to Shop as a Tall Woman
by Rachel McCarthy James
Height is practically a prerequisite for wearing clothes professionally: Models are on average 5 feet 9.5 inches. "When I was a size 2 or 4, [it] was really easy to find high-end items at a great discount," says Falasha, a Switzerland-based fashion blogger, "especially items used for models or styling.
HYPEBAE
Why Ader Error Is Easily Korea's Most Exciting Design Collective
by Teresa Lam
The Seoul-based fashion label makes more than just clothes.
1 Granary
Colleen Allen ‒- Deconstructing the British Man
by Alice Bell
“I want to create this world that I want to be surrounded by.”
The Business of Fashion
Miroslava Duma and Ulyana Sergeenko Accused of Racism, Homophobia and Transphobia
by Kati Chitrakorn
Miroslava Duma has responded to a disturbing video that has emerged of her making homophobic and transphobic comments, shortly after receiving a barrage of criticism for posting a racial slur on Instagram.
Wallpaper* Magazine
Yves Béhar on his ultimate 'fuse' project with L'Oréal, empathetic tech, and why he designs
by Elly Parsons
We live in an age where the phrase ‘UV wearable’ is offered in conversation without explanation or definition. For those who aren’t up on their tech literacy, a ‘UV wearable’ is a stick-on sensor that tracks sun exposure, lowering the risk of skin cancer by raising personal awareness around how much sun is too much.
Quartz
In just four days, top fashion CEOs earn a garment worker's lifetime pay
by Marc Bain
While the global economy concentrates wealth in the hands of an ultra-rich elite, ordinary workers struggle daily to survive on poverty wages.
Drapers
What finally lured Prada and Céline online
by Harriet Brown
Drapers asks why it has taken so long for the world of luxury to go digital and how brands are standing apart from fast fashion online natives.
INDIE Magazine
Gangyoung Sell 90's Style Female Streetwear
Working to create a space for female clothing that celebrates individual beauty Gangyoung are challenging stereotypes and empowering their female customers.
Glossy
Inside American Fashion Network, the manufacturer spearheading speed-to-market
by Bethany Biron
About 250 miles north of New York City, Jackie Wilson, founder and CEO of American Fashion Network, is quietly producing private-label collections for some of the biggest names in the retail industry.
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