Beauty media operates from this place of, 'If you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say it,' but consumers are a lot smarter than that, and it’s very transparent. Not every product is going to change your life, and when all the celebratory press is coming out in the same day, it’s so obvious it’s just from a PR push.
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Kaia. Valentino Haute Couture S/S 2018, Paris, Jan. 24, 2018.
(Francois G. Durand/WireImage/Getty Images)
Friday - January 26, 2018 Fri - 01/26/18
rantnrave:// Did you notice fashion on the schedule at the WORLD ECONOMIC FORUM in DAVOS? Retail and marketing strategies, cultural trends, and tastes are very much informed by work produced by the fashion industry, and it's good to see that more fully recognized on a global stage. Other sectors have been whiffing off of fashion for a while. Although fashion is often prone to self-criticism and hand-wringing in an open forum (can other industries say the same?), it's nice to see it own its place in the larger economic world... Glad to see some fresh fashion documentaries have made it to NETFLIX. REINER HOLZEMER's documentary on DRIES VAN NOTEN finally reached US distribution. I loved the ambience of the film. It's a wonderful portrait of the designer, his life and creativity: daily work that can at times verge on drudgery, yet produces some of the most mesmerizing collections in fashion today. It all settles within the striking beauty of Dries' world: his gardens, his studio, his relationship with partner PATRICK VANGHELUWE, his runway collections. It's a story that taps the mind of one of fashion's most beloved designers. "Maddman: The Steve Madden Story" is on a whole different wavelength, and it's great. Madden is wildly entertaining to watch, and the family dynamics formed with longtime employees of the brand tell a story of commitment, loyalty, and entrepreneurial grit amid the frenetic pace of NYC. The business began with $1100, made it through IPO and Madden's indictment for securities fraud, and despite it all is still growing. Great story. MICHAEL ROBERTS' documentary on MANOLO BLAHNIK is best when the camera settles on Blahnik, who is mesmerizingly expressive—someone in the film likens him to a bird of paradise. The film shows glimpses of Blahnik drawing shoes with pencil and paint and shaving down heel shapes in his Italian factory. It's this eye and dedication to the work that make Blahnik such a treasure... Two great interviews: confessions of a beauty video producer (applies to all media), and RICHIE SIEGEL talks growing a brand and sneaker culture with RYAN BABENZIEN... Briefs: AMY ODELL leaves COSMOPOLITAN... The NYT logo on the runway... "Elevator Music"... Sad news that BERNADINE MORRIS has passed. RIP.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
euc
Racked
East Africa Doesn't Want Your Hand-Me-Downs
by Melissa Banigan
In 2015, shareholders of manufacturing corporations from across the East African Community (EAC) -- including Rwanda, Burundi, Kenya, Uganda, South Sudan, and Tanzania -- met for a summit in Uganda to discuss " a new dawn in the history of manufacturing in [the] East Africa region."
The New York Times
At Valentino, a Dream Ending: Couture for the Casual Era
by Vanessa Friedman
Pierpaolo Piccioli put magic into the ease of the everyday, while Viktor & Rolf explored the possibilities of less-is-more and Jean Paul Gaultier honored Pierre Cardin.
Loose Threads
Hyper-Value — with Ryan Babenzien of GREATS
by Richie Siegel and Ryan Babenzien
On the 56th episode of the Loose Threads Podcast, a show about the rapidly changing consumer economy, we talk with Ryan Babenzien, the founder of GREATS, the first-digitally-native footwear brand that is hyper-focused on bringing extreme value to the sneaker market.
The New Yorker
When Barbie Went to War with Bratz
by Jill Lepore
How a legal battle over intellectual property exposed a cultural battle over sex, gender roles, and the workplace.
Glossy
Confessions of a beauty video producer: 'There’s no strategy; it’s just about pushing out more stuff'
by Jessica Schiffer
By most accounts, media's "pivot to video" has largely failed -- but beauty is one realm in which the medium still has legs. Nevertheless, its a crowded space, and it often leaves the producers behind the videos putting more insightful content on the back burner, in lieu of what might go viral.
Fashionista
Is Alexander Wang Leading Fashion Month into a New Future?
by Tyler McCall
For several seasons running, major American designers have defected from New York Fashion Week in droves, choosing to show in other fashion capitals, on a different schedule or abandoning the runway altogether. This has lead to many claims that New York Fashion Week is dead ( guilty), something which clearly drives CFDA CEO and president Steven Kolb crazy.
1 Granary
Grand Theft Artist, Per Hansson
by Fiona Ma
The RCA grad talks heavy metal, cowboys and Lamborghinis.
The Fashion Law
The Culture of Silence that Works to Ensure Discrimination, Sexual Harassment
In October 2017, the "New York Times" published a massive and hard-hitting expose detailing decades of allegations of sexual harassment involving Harvey Weinstein. In the wake of the Times’ investigation of the high-powered film executive, a steady stream of additional allegations have emerged against other prominent public figures, including several well-established names in fashion.
Document Journal
Hairstylist Guido Palau Reflects on the Growth of Mens Beauty at Lanvin Men's FW18
by Megan Wray Schertler
As one of the most well known and accomplished hairstylists working in fashion, Guido Palau has launched careers and started trends with his eye for texture, shape, and styles that both stand on their own and compliment the person wearing them.
Fashionista
4 Under-the-Radar Brands Quietly Producing Leather Goods the Right Way
by Whitney Bauck
The more you learn about the ethics of manufacturing and production, the more you'll be forced to acknowledge that " ethical fashion" is less of an in-or-out category than it is a spectrum. One brand may be sourcing eco-friendly fabrics while another prioritizes workers' rights; still another may work only in LEED-certified factories and office spaces.
nwot
The Business of Fashion
Can Couture Be Modern?
by Angelo Flaccavento
The Paris Couture week that just closed was a bumpy ride with an uplifting finale, reports Angelo Flaccavento.
Grailed
An Abridged History of Hip-Hop's Relationship with Sneaker Culture
by Stephen Albertini
In the 35 years since Nike first introduced the Air Force 1, one of its most iconic sneakers, rap’s relationship with the sneaker industry has gone through many phases. Rappers have gone from subtle co-signers who helped start grassroots movements to indirect ad men, to power brokers with creative control over entire lines of product.
AnOther
The Surrealist Women Who Inspired Dior Haute Couture
by Alexander Fury
In light of the house’s striking Spring 2018 show, Alexander Fury traces the collection’s roots in Surrealism’s avant-garde women artists.
Heddels
History of the Chronograph -- The Watch that Stops
by James Smith
Having a stopwatch on hand is a given in this day and age, but the Chronograph watch revolutionized our conception of time two centuries years ago.
SAP News Center
The Future of Consumption: A Question of Trust
by Alex Atzberger
As a boy growing up in Hong Kong, I often joined my father on business meetings. These meetings typically took place in restaurants in Kowloon, loud, crowded, and smoky, where deals were sealed over rice wine. Trust was established. Today the noise is online -- deals are made with the click of a mouse rather than the tinkle of glasses. In digital, trust is equally required for trading to flourish.
MR PORTER
The Day We All Wore Balenciaga To Work
by Adam Welch
The MR PORTER team road test the exclusive Balenciaga capsule collection on an average day at the office.
Jing Daily
Cartier China CEO Renaud Litré on Partnering With the Palace Museum and More
by Ruonan Zheng
At the Résonances de Cartier exhibition in Shanghai, Litré discusses how the brand is positioned to respond to changing notions of luxury and romance.
i-D Magazine
RETRO READ: In 2003, i-D Asked Artists Like Alexander Mcqueen and Tracey Emin to Share Images of Peace
As we celebrate Peace Week, we throw back to a selection of images from our 2003 Action Issue. Curated by i-D co-founder Tricia Jones, it features some of our best loved contributors and collaborators as they share their ideas and thoughts on peace.
USA TODAY
Ralph Lauren's Olympic opening ceremony uniforms are wearable mini-heaters
by Maria Puente
Team USA will get an innovative jolt of heat from their uniforms at the 2018 Winter Games in Pyeongchang, Korea, next month.
StyleZeitgeist Mag
Fashion Week Ramblings -- F/W 2018 Men's -- Part 2, Showrooms
by Eugene Rabkin
My first showroom visit was to Boris Bidjan Saberi, where I got to examine closely those tubelike garments that he put on the runway two days prior.
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52nd Street
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