It’s more than pinning the millimeter; it’s [asking] how far can I go to make it sharper, how far can I go to make it perfect? It’s the same as the researcher who is looking for the molecule to be extremely sensitive. It’s driving your mind and your hands to perfectionism. When you can see and recognize that, that’s a master. | | | | Anna Cleveland at Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture S/S 2018. Paris, Jan. 24, 2018.
(Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “It’s more than pinning the millimeter; it’s [asking] how far can I go to make it sharper, how far can I go to make it perfect? It’s the same as the researcher who is looking for the molecule to be extremely sensitive. It’s driving your mind and your hands to perfectionism. When you can see and recognize that, that’s a master.”
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| | rantnrave:// In today’s dressed-down world, where the pajama, the sleeping bag, and the SNUGGIE form interchangeable outfit ideas for the street, dressing to a theme can seem like an event for the pages of a book on the GILDED AGE or, say, a horror show of an employee holiday party. There are always exceptions. The dress code requested for the premiere of BLACK PANTHER was “royal,” and attendees showed up with such force as to blow that descriptor out of the water. Regalia indeed. It radiated something harder to convey in today's teetering red-carpet environments: style. Many of the ensembles combined African tradition with an eye for proportion, color, volume, and silhouette, and it was the ease with which attendees wore the clothes that stood out. ROBIN GIVHAN wrote that the "film is stepping into a void with its predominantly black cast... and narrative about futuristic African nobility," and the red carpet was a force of diversity and expressiveness rarely seen at hyped Hollywood events. These are pop optics with the strength of culture behind them. A good moment for entertainment… There had been quiet announcements over the past few years that the house of POIRET was set to be revived under SHINSEGAE department store president CHUNG YOO-KYUNG. Poiret is a tricky label to revive given its lionization in history books and museum collections, its frozen-in-amber odes to SCHEHERAZADE and the BALLETS RUSSES, and its association with a romanticized "east." But I’m all for considering how this could be a promising return. BOF's OSMAN AMED has a great story on how the label is being revived with ANNE CHAPPELLE, a Belgian investor known for her work with ANN DEMEULEMEESTER and HAIDER ACKERMANN, and YIQING YIN, a PARIS-based designer of haute couture. The first showing will take place during PARIS FASHION WEEK. Poiret has made definitive contributions to fashion, and his legacy will remain. I’ll never forget this touching anecdote about Poiret from CECIL BEATON’s “The Glass of Fashion,” relayed to Beaton by Poiret’s nephew MONSIEUR BOGNARD. Broke after his business had closed, Poiret had recently secured a deal designing prints for LIBERTY, for which he’d been compensated 10,000 francs. When the two met for lunch the next day, his nephew remarked that Poiret looked fatigued, to which Poiret replied, “Yes… I am, and little wonder. I have spent the night with Venus!” After the Liberty deal, Poiret promptly went out and spent all 10,000 francs on a new telescope. He’d been up all the previous night, looking at the stars… In brief: Photos of GHANA streetwear style... OFF-WHITE will launch swimwear... HIGHSNOBIETY's zine collab with COCO CAPITÀN. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | Racked |
| For all its prudishness about nipples, Instagram sure does seem to like boobs. Or rather, its advertising algorithm does, particularly if you're a female user between the ages of, say, 18 and 45. | | |
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 | The Business of Fashion |
| The Belgian businesswoman behind the rise of Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann has taken on a new challenge: resurrecting Paul Poiret. | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| Welcome to our new series, Factory Tour, in which we're taking you inside the manufacturing facilities of some of our favorite brands to find out how the clothes we buy are actually made . Next up: Chicago-based handcrafted, luxury eyewear company State Optical Co. | | |
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 | The Huffington Post |
| In October 2017, Carolyn Kramer received a disturbing phone call. The former modeling agent listened intently as a model she used to represent told her that a famous French photographer, who still shoots for top publications, raped her when she was 16. | | |
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 | Departures |
| In Paris and Marrakech, two new museums tell a complex--and more complete--story of the most influential designer of the 20th century. | | |
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 | Hypebeast |
| Investigating the link between Versace, Moschino and the UK Garage scene. | | |
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 | Cultured Magazine |
| There is an unsettling stillness that accompanies any fashion exhibition. Mannequins, hangers, hooks cannot replace the dynamism of a body in motion, but at Mary Katrantzou’s first solo show at Dallas Contemporary, I found myself incredibly thankful for a more intimate glimpse at the details one rarely notices as her garments glide across a room. | | |
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| Racked |
| We are in a golden age of skincare. Indie brands like The Ordinary, Sunday Riley, and Drunk Elephant are feverishly dissected and discussed on Twitter, in Sephora chat rooms, on Reddit. Cleanser pH is a religion. So is P50. Korean beauty, with its multi-step regimens and unique ingredients, has gone mainstream. | | |
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 | The Outline |
| How the watch site Hodinkee began selling timepieces -- and started a movement. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| CBD from the cannabis plant is the buzziest skin care ingredient of the year. The beauty business is not about to miss out. | | |
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 | Highsnobiety |
| Back in the mid '90s, Nike Air Max cushioning was in the midst of a rapid evolution. Sneaker designs were progressing quickly, with the Air Max 95 and Air Max 97 becoming the industry's aspiration for footwear perfection. The Air Max 98 has always played somewhat of a second fiddle to its predecessors, however. | | |
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 | Glossy |
| Today's beauty brands have a new audience to win over when debuting their products: the ever-growing group of skin-care and makeup junkies that is burgeoning online. But with that has come increased competition, as these customers are surfing through social platforms crowded by other brands and influencers, all hoping to entice the same group of customers. | | |
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 | WSJ |
| As Jim Moore takes a step back from his longstanding role at the men’s fashion monthly, he reflects on all the trends and characters he encountered along the way. | | |
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 | A SHADED VIEW ON FASHION |
| A close look inside the process of creating the ‘Ludi Naturae’ Couture collection, diving deeper into the design and production of the Foliage dress. | | |
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| Fashionista |
| At a press event previewing the Jordan Brand offerings for spring last week in Los Angeles, the Nike subset's president, Larry Miller, was asked which of the many new projects he found to be most exciting. | | |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| We chat to Giuliana Leila Raggiani about her timeless turtlenecks, and reveal an exclusive photo series starring hip-hop vocalist Topaz Jones. | | |
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 | The New Yorker |
| How klompen became a ubiquitous signifier of creative-class bohemianism. | | |
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 | The Fashion Law |
| "A lot of people don't belong [in our clothes],” Mike Jeffries told Salon in 2006 explaining the culture of the brand he was tasked with overseeing at the time. “That’s why we hire good-looking people in our stores. Good-looking people attract other good-looking people, and we want to market to cool, good-looking people. We don’t market to anyone other than that.” | | |
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 | Bloomberg |
| Amazon.com Inc. is expanding a service launched to make more groceries, cleaning supplies and other products available for quick delivery directly from merchants without overwhelming the e-commerce giant's warehouses with additional inventory, according to documents reviewed by Bloomberg. | | |
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 | Messy Nessy Chic |
| "In the 19th and early 20th centuries, nothing was quite as swish and fancy as a beautifully tiled mosaic entrance. It was the height of fashion and sophistication for shops and swish apartment buildings to display their name in this way, right under your very feet as you walked in." | | |
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 | YouTube |
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