Don’t be swept out. Go before the glow fades.
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Hyun Mi Nielsen haute couture S/S 2018. Paris, Jan. 25, 2018.
(Bertrand Guay/AFP/Getty Images)
Friday - February 02, 2018 Fri - 02/02/18
rantnrave:// Research firm L2 expects the market for menswear to grow faster than womenswear over the next two years. MARIA BOBILA has a summary of the report up at FASHIONISTA. It's a favorable prospect for the menswear scene, which has gained significant momentum and interest over the past decade. I'd suggest there's another potential market for menswear: women. Several labels are creating crossover collections, where the "men's" styles are either worn by women on the runway or adjusted slightly to fit a woman's physique. BERLUTI's recent collections are one example. "Borrowed from the boys" was a slogan popularized in fashion when PHOEBE PHILO's CÉLINE was in full fever-mode and JENNA LYONS was at the helm of J. CREW. The appeal's still there, albeit with more of a streetwear current today. I know plenty of women who order men's styles, whether it's graphic tees, sweatshirts, or bomber jackets. It represents a spread—not exactly gender-neutral, but simply men's styles that women want. For me, they have to fit. For pre-fall, I was happy to see MARTIN GRANT took some men's styles and adjusted the fit for women. The lookbook shows the pieces on a man and a woman, together. If menswear is set for accelerated growth, some men's labels may have a good response tweaking certain styles for women or offering a bespoke women's service to get the fit right. I'd go for it for labels like CRAIG GREEN... Fashion month has arrived, and despite all the talk about fashion week flux, something may be brewing with NEW YORK FASHION WEEK. Sometimes the best efforts come from those with something to prove, and New York has all the makings of an underdog ready to win one. Can it be the grand stage for upstart, local, and emerging talent? For international talent? There's a new CHINA DAY showcase this season. I'm looking forward to seeing ABASI ROSBOROUGH, which will hold its first runway show... NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: MEN's begins Monday with BODE, a label that caused a minor sensation after its debut last year. GQ STYLE has a great profile on the label. Designer EMILY BODE is combining craft and provenance to create garments that come with a unique history. The label draws on networks of collectors, historical textiles, and a quilting factory in INDIA, so the idea of patchwork is integral to both the construction and the provenance of the garments. There are some stunning pieces of outerwear shown in GQ Style. Definitely one to watch... In brief: Selling off a SUPREME collection... EBAY to drop PAYPAL payments by 2023... BURBERRY FOUNDATION and OXFAM partner on a cashmere project.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
fundamentals
The Washington Post
At the State of the Union, fashion puts women on mute
by Robin Givhan
Lawmakers use brooches, stoles and basic black to deliver their message. None of it worked.
The Business of Fashion
Marc Jacobs Hires New Designer for Lower-Priced Product Push
by Lauren Sherman
LVMH has tapped Baja East's John Targon to lead the company's contemporary team. What does this mean for Marc Jacobs - the brand and the man?
1843 Magazine
Best-dressed? It's all relative
by Luke Leitch
Searching for a sartorial role model who combines substance and style, Luke Leitch settles on a man whose contribution to fashion has been unfairly overlooked.
GQ Style
This Emerging Brand Is Winning the New York Fashion Race with Quilts (Yes, Quilts)
by Samuel Hine and Matt Martin
Emily Bode is turning rare and forgotten textiles into workwear you'll want to start collecting. Emily Bode presents her collection, Bode, like most fashion brands: seasonally, with a six-month lead time.
Dazed Digital
The super sharp style of 90s garage and jungle raves
by Emma Elizabeth Davidson
The curators of a new exhibition discuss the garage scene, its renaissance and why the freshness of your Moschino was a reflection of your masculinity.
The Business of Fashion
On Road to Autumn IPO, Farfetch Inks Middle East Deal
by Vikram Alexei Kansara
The fashion ‘unicorn’ has entered into a joint venture with Chalhoub Group ahead of a $5 billion IPO that is set for September 2018, according to sources close to the deal.
The New York Times
Kanye West Finally Gets His Fashion Right
by Vanessa Friedman
With his Yeezy Season 6 Kim-a-likes, the artist-designer adds a much-needed element to his style arsenal.
Vogue
Meet Topical Cream, the Internet Collective Highlighting Femme and GNC Artists Online and IRL
by Rachel Hahn
Scrolling through Topical Cream's home page, you'll find an interview with multimedia artist Juliana Huxtable on her first solo show at Reena Spaulings, reviews of German artist Lena Henke's experimental sculpture work, and a hyper-glossy image of a woman smiling in a Telfar halter as she presents a tray of freshly baked weed edibles.
1 Granary
Transforming the Mundane with Bianca Saunders
by Mahoro Seward
The work of the Royal College of Art graduate explores black masculinity and gender expectations in London.
Highsnobiety
Sneaker Collaborations: Retailers Explain How They Happen
by Alex Rakestraw
The global hunger for shoe collabs has never been stronger. This past year has produced some of the best (and worst) collaborative shoes in memory: from the Nike x UNDEFEATED Air Max 97 to the adidas x Sneakersnstuff "Datamosh" NMD, 2017 produced lust-worthy shoes of more than just the "AIR QUOTE" variety.
accoutrements
Racked
NFL Players With Long Hair Could Be in for a World of Pain
by Nadra Nittle
A recent study says football players should know the risks of a flowing mane.
The Fashion Law
Why Are We — and the Fashion Industry — Obsessed with Paparazzi Photos?
Paparazzi photos have permeated the fashion industry. Whether it be imagery on celebrity news sites of supermodels Kate Moss and Karlie Kloss or editorials and ad campaigns staged in a street peeping manner, society -- and the fashion industry -- cannot get enough of paparazzi pics. 
Garage Magazine
The New Wave of the Merch Trend Is Highbrow as Hell
by Tyler Watamanuk
Adjust your monocle: it's time to rep "The New Yorker," the "New York Times," and the Museum of Modern Art.
WWD
Norman Norell's Lasting Influence on American Fashion
by Rosemary Feitelberg and Andrew Nodell
Like Norman Norell's more dedicated clients, author Jeffrey Banks and WWD executive editor Bridget Foley had a lot to unpack in discussing how the son of a hatmaker became America's first great designer. Even the Q&A's location -- Parsons School of Design, The New School -- called for footnotes.
Die, Workwear!
Clothes, Food, and Marol
by Derek Guy
I’ve always thought clothing should be written about like food, rather than technical equipment -- less stitch count, more mouthfeel. A few weeks ago, I was having drinks with a friend, who was telling me about a dinner he had at a local Michelin star restaurant. A multi-course meal there runs $750 per person. Or in his case, $1,500 for him and his wife.
Glossy
Female-led luxury shoe brand founders are pushing to merge style with comfort
by Bethany Biron
While the mid-priced sector of the footwear industry remains fairly saturated, luxury is a largely untapped frontier for rising brands. For one, it's expensive; higher quality materials can be prohibitively costly for any emerging brand. However, it's been a particularly difficult venture for women trying to push into the industry and lend a fresh perspective on design.
South China Morning Post
In China, less shopping for the latest bling, more exchanging clothes
by Robynne Tindall
The trillion-dollar garment market takes a heavy toll on the environment, but sites such as Share2, Xian Yu and Live With Less are spreading the word that used items are cheaper, fashionable and better for the planet.
Barstool Sports
Failing Upwards: Getting Our Good Side with Andi Elloway
by James Harris, Lawrence Schlossman, Andi Elloway...
In this week's episode, James and Lawrence discuss James’ fate as the future of the pod hangs on by a thread. Will James quit his job at [bleep] and move to Los Angeles or will he stay here with the boys and take the L? Find out…. next week we think, we’re not exactly sure. Then the guys interview amazingly talented photographer, Andi Elloway.
Forbes
This Female Founder Is Using Fashion To Keep Women From Sex Trafficking
by Esha Chhabra
Shannon Keith put $25,000 of her savings into a startup that employs Indian women who had been or were at the risk of being trafficked. By creating an alternative option for them to make money, Keith hopes that she can offer these women a safer, more reliable way to make money.
Jing Daily
The Chinese Company Quietly Becomes a Luxury Retailer
by Yiling Pan
Once a Shenzhen electrical meter manufacturer, Hemei is quickly acquiring the distribution rights for major luxury brands, and the means to sell them both online and offline.
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