There’s a reason for everything in design — the way the New York City subway system is run, how water pipes work. That’s one of the biggest things I’ve learned moving to America. I ask myself: 'How do I design with intent? How do I make something make sense with reason and emotion?' | | | | At the Peninsula. Naomi Campbell wears Jean Paul Gaultier and jewelry by Chanel, NYC. Jan. 8, 1991.
(Julio Donoso/Sygma/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “There’s a reason for everything in design — the way the New York City subway system is run, how water pipes work. That’s one of the biggest things I’ve learned moving to America. I ask myself: 'How do I design with intent? How do I make something make sense with reason and emotion?'”
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| | rantnrave:// Happy Monday and the first day of NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: MEN’S. I’m looking forward to seeing SANCHEZ-KANE and WILLY CHAVARRIA. There’s a wonderful interview with HEAD OF STATE designer TAOFEEK ABIJAKO, who is applying to fashion school while showing his second collection at NYFW… The image, story, and cult of RALPH LAUREN has always brought into question values of authenticity in the American landscape. Today the company might be viewed as a dusty empire, yet it has plans to dig its way out of decline and showed a steadfast collection last season at RALPH'S GARAGE. The story of the LO LIFE crew has had particular resonance in recent years—it's the story of who is included, who is left behind, and who seizes the dream outside sanctioned lines—all rooted in aspiration and the potent appeal of the American dream. MELVIN BACKMAN examines RL CORPORATION's complicated relationship to the Lo Life legacy. What does that relationship mean for streetwear today? Can Ralph Lauren catch up to this cultural legacy or will it form a crucial divide? At what point do retro reissues look like pandering to a commercial moment for streetwear?... I enjoy the excitement and ritual of the SUPER BOWL and couldn’t help thinking about the role uniforms play in the NFL universe. Uniforms signal team affiliation and give players a kind of superhuman presence on the field, armored in an exoskeleton of padding, polyester, and precision-fit helmets. And they're big business. They're made for instant recognition on the field and the screen, with concern for practical performance sewn and woven in. And like any enthusiast culture, there is exhaustive research and cataloguing being done on NFL uniforms, with no detail too small. UNI WATCH and the GRIDIRON UNIFORM DATABASE track the history and development of NFL garb... Briefs: Software eats retail from DOUG STEPHENS... DOVER STREET MARKET opens in BEIJING. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | British Vogue |
| A week before his heart failed him in November, Azzedine Alaïa called his friend Latifa, whose husband had just passed away at the age of 95. "Azzedine, we are all getting old," Latifa said, "and soon we will join him." | | |
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 | The Associated Press |
| XIANGYANG, China (AP) - The young woman, new to the grind of Chinese factory life, knew the man who called himself Kalen only by the photo on his chat profile. It showed him with a pressed smile holding a paper cup in a swank skyscraper somewhere late at night. | | |
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 | Hypebeast |
| "I'm a descendant of everyone from Kanye West to Pharrell Williams." | | |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| "Turning 17 was amazing," says Taofeek Abijako. On a rainy afternoon in the designer's Tribeca showroom, we both reflect on what that age brought us. Me: a 2001 Toyota Corolla with crank-up windows and a tape deck. Him: an email from United Arrows - one of Japan's leading luxury retailers - inquiring about his nascent menswear brand, Head of State+. | | |
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 | The New Yorker |
| The Lo Lifes have given the brand something that it never really sought: street cred. | | |
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 | Bloomberg |
| After a year of falling sales and internal turmoil, the grandfather of preppiness is trying to rescue his brand from irrelevance. | | |
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 | GQ |
| One New York retailer says it's given away $56,000 worth of ultra-hyped prizes over the past five months. Buying rare sneakers, particularly Kanye West's Yeezys, can be thought of as a game of chance. | | |
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 | 1843 Magazine |
| Trading second-hand clothes has become big business among the young. Eve Watling reports on a shopping revolution. | | |
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 | McKinsey & Company |
| To survive and prosper, luxury players need to enhance the customer experience and transform their businesses for the digital era. | | |
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 | The Business of Fashion |
| Time’s up for the fashion industry’s emotional abuse of junior employees, argues Anabel Maldonado. | | |
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 | Dazed Digital |
| First Yeezy, now Balenciaga — but fashion’s tangled relationship with the paps goes back a long time. | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| In today's turbulent and crowded retail landscape, it's difficult to think of a retail strategy that a brand hasn't tried in the hopes of cutting through the noise and reeling in loyal customers. One that's gained popularity in fashion recently, despite not being new per se, is bundling. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| Black History Month is a vital celebration of achievement in the face of adversity. But there are millions of stories that go untold. | | |
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 | Vogue |
| When Narciso Rodriguez staged the first show for his eponymous label in Milan, for Spring 1998, it was mayhem. The designer, who was in his mid-30s at the time, was known around town for his work at Cerruti, and around the world for the sublime wedding dress he designed for his friend Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy. | | |
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 | South China Morning Post |
| Luxury brands are establishing institutions, workshops, retail spaces and museums to keep customers in touch with their heritage and savoir-faire | | |
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 | The Cut |
| The essential artist talks Ikea, Trump, hypebeasts, sex, and power. | | |
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 | Quartzy |
| The Little Purple Dress is not famous. “Yellow tie” is not a recognized dress code. Black has a hold on fashion unmatched by any other color. | | |
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 | AnOther |
| On the release of a new film on British couture in the 1950s, Phantom Thread, we trace the couturiers who inspired Daniel Day-Lewis’ lead role. | | |
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| i-D Magazine |
| Designer Emily Adams Bode is making quilted clothing cool. | | |
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 | The Verge |
| The first season of Netflix's Altered Carbon began streaming on February 2nd. It's the company's answer to some of its competitors' big-budget science fiction shows like The Expanse or Westworld. But in this case, it's a civilization coping with a technology that allows them to escape death, downloading people's minds from one body to the next. | | |
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