If you're trying to chase trends, then you're already late. | | | | Henry Poole & Co, London. Feb. 1, 2011.
(Dan Kitwood/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “If you're trying to chase trends, then you're already late.”
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| | rantnrave:// There's something about NEW YORK FASHION WEEK MEN'S that makes it feel looser, less restricted by the rules. It's less attended, less heard of, and more free because of it. It has the fringe element. At the men's shows, a clash of designers come together. There are the cult standbys—menswear labels like ROBERT GELLER offering a refined, urbane sense of design. There are established companies like SUIT SUPPLY that tout business innovation as much as quality—that make reliable staples men want to reach for day in and day out (there was an amazing dusty pink/lavender-hued suit at the Suit Supply presentation). There are many in-between, still figuring out what their voice is and how they fit into the wider fashion landscape. Sure, there are designers showing at NYFW:M you've likely never heard of; these aren't luxury maisons with handbag logos that echo 'round the world. That's not a bad thing. Some of the best labels showing in NEW YORK come with a more radical intent. They're not bothered too much with convention and many are making active statements—through clothing—to change people's perception about sex, gender, race, and class. Sounds heavy, but it's not. It's hopeful. BÁRBARA SANCHEZ-KANE began her career as an industrial engineer, and the process of construction and deconstruction, filtered through an emotional, instinctual lens, shows in her work. There’s a tooling process to the clothes, joined together with exposed fasteners, loops, the fabric twisting around boxy tailored shapes, model’s bodies exposed through strategic openings in the fabric (a nipple here, a bellybutton there). The theme was “artesenal sex shop,” and there were dancers performing around phallic sculptures made of exposed wire and built-up layers of plaster on the runway. Sanchez-Kane said part of her inspiration was the lack of sex education in Mexico; the suits were informed by school uniforms. This was an underground culture hidden in plain sight. That was the strength of WILLY CHAVARRIA's show. Chavarria showed a dark collection called "BELIEVERS," a procession of haunted figures inspired by CHICANO culture and workwear staples worn loose, baggy, and unapologetically. There was sense of recognition in the show—that these are men and women we've seen before. There were some incredible oversized leather jackets that looked at first like standard issue, but on closer inspection revealed beautifully crafted details like gathering along a horizontal seam, giving them a wonderful drape. Chavarria came through RALPH LAUREN, and it seems the detail and storytelling from RL have carried over into Chavarria's vision—he's defining a new sense of Americana... In brief: LULULEMON CEO resigns... ANDREAS MURKUDIS interviews OAMC's LUKE MEIER... EBAY and MASHABLE launch shoppable images. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | Frieze.com |
| A rare, in-depth interview with fashion designer Jil Sander. | | |
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 | Retail Dive |
| Deborah Yeh, SVP of marketing and brand at Sephora, gave Retail Dive a glimpse into three of the retailer's most dynamic marketing moves. | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| "It's not the most fun part of fashion week," admits Tracey Manner, Partner & Vice President of public relations, marketing and digital agency Think PR about wrangling influencers for her clients' New York Fashion Week shows and events. "It becomes such a game." | | |
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 | The Business of Fashion |
| @lilmiquela wears Chanel, Prada and Supreme, works with fashion magazines and advocates for social change. Does it matter that she is a virtual avatar? | | |
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 | Garage Magazine |
| As menswear remains dominated by a streetwear aesthetic, Emily Adams Bode creates clothing out of repurposed quilts, textiles largely made by women that provide comfort in an age of uncertainty. | | |
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 | Vogue |
| Giuliana Rancic has been standing on the red carpet with a microphone in her hand for years. She's a pro at chit chatting about designer labels and million dollar diamonds. At the 2018 Golden Globe Awards, though, not so much. | | |
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 | Glossy |
| Fashion week's existential crisis continues to splinter the industry, sending designers to new cities, pushing them to off-season schedules, changing the way they do business with retailers and taking them off the runway altogether. As New York Fashion Week kicks off for the Fall 2018 season, the event feels as scattered as ever. | | |
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 | SSENSE |
| Discussing copycats, knockoffs, and the art of secret spilling with the minds behind @dietprada. | | |
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 | Bloomberg |
| Consumers just aren't that into clothes anymore. | | |
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 | AnOther |
| A new exhibition remembers the jungle and garage scenes of the late 90s -- and the fashions they spawned. | | |
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 | Milk |
| Bárbara Sanchez-Kane is the Mexican designer making waves in the fashion industry. | | |
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| Fashionista |
| In our long-running series, "How I'm Making It," we talk to people making a living in the fashion and beauty industries about how they broke in and found success. According to a previous Fashionista story on how to make it in menswear, Eugene Tong's career trajectory could be a textbook example. | | |
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 | Grailed |
| In Medias Res is a column in which photographer Chris Fenimore links up with some of fashion's most interesting people to see what they're wearing throughout the week. | | |
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 | The Fashion Law |
| LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault returned the standstill agreement that Gucci had proposed (in which LVMH would formally agree to stop buying Gucci shares in exchange for seats on the board of the Italian design house). It was sent back -- by fax -- at precisely 5:01 pm to Gucci CEO Domenico Del Sole. | | |
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 | Paper |
| Talking with Qubilah Shabazz about keeping her father's legacy alive. | | |
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 | Highsnobiety |
| Reilly is an illustrator, graphic designer and artist. Reilly's understanding of branding and corporate semantics, tied in with an ability to render fashion as ironically as possible, has led him to Fendi, where he worked on their FW18 show. | | |
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 | 6sqft |
| Monday was a traditional day to do the hard work of washing clothes back in the tenement era of New York City. | | |
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 | Apparel Magazine |
| NRF is a big show. It's even called The Big Show. This year drew in approximately 36,500 attendees to more than 500 educational sessions. It featured more than 300 speakers and more than 500 exhibitors. | | |
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 | Apparel News |
| New looks in denim and advances in technical fabrics were hot topics at the recent Texworld USA, a large fabric sourcing event held Jan. 22-24 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. | | |
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 | Forbes |
| What ails fast-fashion H&M brand in the US market. Its stores are an over-crowded mess with too much uninspired product and too little demand. Its sizing is fat-shaming, its prices are going up and its capsule collections are losing favor. It needs to fix the mess it is in, not add new brands. | | |
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 | YouTube |
| | | | | | A demo made with the Roland MKS 80 Rev 5. |
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