The best things in life are free. The second-best things are very, very expensive. | | | | | Cindy stepping out of a cab to promote her calendar, Doubleday Bookstore, Nov. 17, 1989, NYC. (Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection/Getty Images) | | | | | | “The best things in life are free. The second-best things are very, very expensive.”
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| | rantnrave:// Here's to the beginning of NYFW and fashion month. Here's a list of who's new to the NYC schedule this season. Here's another. Political backlash, retail strife, and the shifting sands of the fashion calendar all make for a, shall we say, dynamic backdrop to the week. The industry marches on. BOF launched its #TiedTogether campaign, and it's expressed that the campaign is one for positivity and inclusivity, not politics per se... Dressing and design depend on context. Nowhere is this more evident than in HOLLYWOOD. In VANITY FAIR, SAM KASHNER recounts that time GABRIELLE CHANEL was hired by SAMUEL GOLDWYN to design costumes for golden-era MGM films. He sets up a di-a-lect-ic between the streamlined, modernist sensibility—the supreme understatement—of Chanel's designs and the deliberately outsized glamour meant for the silver screen. Spangles just look good on celluloid. As OG costume designer ADRIAN tried to explain to Chanel, costumes must be "photogenic," and subtlety drowns on-screen. This is echoed by some designers today, who profess that they consider screen-appeal of a different sort when designing (INSTA). Read the piece for Chanel’s response to seeing knock-offs of her designs in NYC, which she saw as a supreme form of flattery… Two excerpts from upcoming books, published in THE CUT, are essential reads. JOAN JULIET BUCK’s remembers her time as editor-in-chief of VOGUE PARIS, and the vividness and humor with which she tells her story is well worth your screen time… JONATHA KITTLER’s essay on being fat is a moving journey through losses, gains, and finally, self-acceptance… Don't miss RACKED’s story on REDDITers who share an open quest for all things "traditionally feminine," swapping strategies for self-improvement therein. Wondering how many company reps are on these forums, if any. Keyboard enthusiasts actively work with companies to place minimum orders directly with factories. Still waiting to see if this will happen in any category of apparel. If it has already, LMK... Briefs for you: that time RICCARDO TISCI dressed HATSUNE MIKU for VOGUE…These illustrated TOKYO storefronts are beautiful… Are hanbok on the rise?… Baggy. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Joan Juliet Buck on saying au revoir to all that. | | |
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| In 1931, studio mogul Sam Goldwyn believed the famed Parisian couturier could make his movies-and his stars-more glamorous, and invited the designer to come to Hollywood. | | |
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| Even for Red Pill Women, men don't always know what's best when it comes to women's fashion | | |
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| No matter where I live, fat is who I am. | | |
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| In the face of so-called ‘America First’ policies curbing immigration and free trade, fashion executives are grappling with the implications of taking a public stance -- or saying nothing at all. | | |
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| "...big up Hezakya Starr for upping this 1993 news piece on the sagging, baggy denim boom — big jeans will be back soon (note: bootcut and baggy are two different things), and this is a reminder as to haw voluminous things got back in the day." | | |
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| Every CEO's current nightmare. | | |
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| The K-Pop superstar and designer on Korean trends, faux pas and how he was a really stylish six-year-old. | | |
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| The company is revamping its iconic Chuck Taylor All Star again -- this time for Generation Z. | | |
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| "In our latest installment of Confessions, in which we grant anonymity for honesty, we talk to a PR professional who has worked for more than 10 years at fashion and lifestyle publications, including one that recently faced a round of severe print layoffs." | | |
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| Don't worry, the man has a back-up plan. | | |
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| But its struggles reveal the challenge of manufacturing in the US. | | |
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| Clothing designers are grappling with the challenge of an increasingly popular, yet racially problematic, style. | | |
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| In a new interview with "W" magazine, Donatella Versace talks about that Michelle Obama dress and why she admires the former First Lady: "She is a woman who knows what she wants." | | |
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| The schedule is as packed as ever, but only a few marquee designers remain. | | |
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| Fleece jackets and pullovers have transformed our experience of the outdoors. But the little, tiny synthetic fibers that fleece is made of could also be ending up in our diets. | | |
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| Supreme x Louis Vuitton is the moment that signified the end of an era. Now, the only difference between streetwear and luxury fashion is in the fine print. | | |
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| From Constructivist paintings to, yes, Choupette, "Vanity Fair" examines the tools and trinkets on the desk of Chanel and Fendi’s creative director. | | |
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| Values are important in marketing "natural" cosmetics, but consumers' interest in them is only skin deep. | | |
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| This year, shows will reach new heights. Hamilton Heights. | | |
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