We made clothes that I think girls really loved and wanted. It was really wonderful in the beginning, and then as it grew, it became about the merchandisers telling us what they needed. I never like when things go that way. | | | | | Marc Jacobs in his design studio. Garment Center, NYC, 1989. (Rose Hartman/Archive Images/Getty Images) | | | | | | “We made clothes that I think girls really loved and wanted. It was really wonderful in the beginning, and then as it grew, it became about the merchandisers telling us what they needed. I never like when things go that way.”
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| | rantnrave:// MARC JACOBS showed on NEW YORK FASHION WEEK's last day in a stripped down PARK AVENUE ARMORY. No indoor photography permitted (no phones, plz). Jacobs has deep ties to NYFW, as an enfant terrible who brought grunge style to the runway of PERRY ELLIS for spring 1993. That ended up costing him the job at Perry, but he gained a reputation as a Seventh Avenue wunderkind and started his own label with ROBERT DUFFY shortly thereafter. That tale is now part of the annals of fashion, so perhaps it’s fitting that Jacobs’ dreamy, outsized interpretation of BROOKLYN/BRONX style from the late 1970s/early 1980s was an ode to a NYC era that's long passed. But that past lives all around us—in hip hop documentaries, streetwear, music samples, and revival sneakers. Odes to the past in order to reinvent the present—what is that if not fashion? The clothes suggested whole worlds, which is why the cavernous empty space inside the armory felt somewhat out of step. The collection seemed to pay homage to people captured by photographer JAMEL SHABAZZ, right down to the warm cast of the film exposure in Shabazz’s work. It was old school as wonderland. Combined with the models' IPHONES, it made for an abrupt remixing of time periods. Apparently it was inspired by HIP HOP EVOLUTION… I remember attending a talk with Shabazz to promote his documentary, directed by CHARLIE AHEARNS. Shabazz knew most of the people in his photographs, and he talked about whose cousins, brothers, sisters appeared in the photos—naming specific blocks and corners the photos were taken on—all before he addressed the look and style. Jacobs show (and his comments about social media) reminded me of the tensions between local and global that media always puts in front of us… On the business front, check out LAUREN SHERMAN’s piece on the consolidation of brands, including Marc Jacobs… The CAROLINA HERRERA x HANBOK presentation at the MUSEUM OF ART AND DESIGN was beautiful… AMAZON hired some individuals away from MARKS AND SPENCER and PRIMARK. Those UK companies are focused on operations, scale, and low-cost sourcing, so speculate away… Love the grit in these images of RILEY KEOUGH, who covers T MAGAZINE’s spring style issue wearing SAINT LAURENT and STETSON. Styled by MARIE-AMÉLIE SAUVÉ, who just launched a mag of her own called MASTERMIND… HILLARY CLINTON and ANNA WINTOUR gave remarks at the ceremony for OSCAR DE LA RENTA’s commemorative USPS stamps... FashionREDEF will be off-duty for PRESIDENTS' DAY. Back Tuesday. Bon weekend. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| She’s one of the world’s top supermodels but Joan Smalls had to fight to get her start in the industry. | | |
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| Brendon Babenzian and Stella Ishii discuss their new collaboration and what makes a good graphic tee. | | |
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| 16 February 1947: A roundup of Paris fashion news including an item on the emerging couture star, Christian Dior. | | |
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| The longtime fashion editor has written a memoir, wherein she examines her glamorous, Hollywood-tinged childhood and a checkered career at Condé Nast. | | |
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| StockX, a web site that connects buyers and sellers using stock-market-style bidding, has secured a new $6 million funding round from an eye-popping list of big names. | | |
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| Capturing attention in show-biz circles has helped the outerwear brand boost sales of its thousand-dollar coats. | | |
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| On the heels of an array of retail bankruptcy filings in 2016, New York-based designer Bibhu Mohapatra and retailers The Limited and Wet Seal, have all filed for Chapter 11 protection this year, signaling that there is no end in sight to the constant string of fashion companies struggling financially. | | |
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| Two decades on from the infamous grunge collection that cost him his job,Marc Jacobs remains as provocative as ever. | | |
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| Michael Anton, the director of strategic communications at the National Security Council, wrote more than 40,000 posts on Styleforum.net, some of them controversial. | | |
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| Here's why brands like Kith and Off-White rebel against the title. | | |
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| The hectic pace of fashion is being slowed down by a hands-on revolution. Tank meets the designers putting craft at the cutting edge. | | |
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| Is it naïve to think that a billion-dollar industry can be maintained while wildlife is protected? | | |
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| Sportswear International.com |
| Designer François Girbaud has collaborated with fabric manufacturer Eurojersey and designed the capsule The Sensitive Preformers collection produced by Petratex garment manufacturer. Read here more details about the collaboration. | | |
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| International textiles buyers are increasingly switching away from China, and back to Western suppliers, as rising labour, raw material and energy costs make the world's dominant producer more expensive. | | |
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