It lived at the nexus of cynicism, willfulness, indulgence and self-regard. And consumers loved it. |
| | | | | Hollywood Palladium, where Hedi Slimane staged his second-last Saint Laurent show (Bryce Edwards) | | | | | |  | “It lived at the nexus of cynicism, willfulness, indulgence and self-regard. And consumers loved it.”
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| rantnrave:// The nice thing about a big secret being kept poorly is that by the time it's actually revealed everyone's had ample time to think it through and prepare their responses. The latest REDEF FashionSET, "HEDI SLIMANE's Legacy," collects a few reflections on the designer's departure from SAINT LAURENT and what his tenure meant to the label and to the fashion world at large. Particularly like ROBIN GIVHAN's take. She, along with many others, refers to his work as "subversive," and it's important to be clear about who and what it subverted. HEDI modified the operating manual for a luxury label, but on a cultural level, there is nothing subversive about his clothes -- they're very conservative, impressively rendered riffs on regressive, archetypal notions of cool. They require no interpretation. Personally, I think HEDI timed his exit perfectly. Fashion thrives on churn, and while SLIMANE's aesthetic resonates at retail now, it won't forever, and he's exiting on top... And, as anticipated, it seems ANTHONY VACCARELLO will indeed be taking HEDI's job... According to COMSCORE, clothes and accessories are now the top-selling category in US online sales, and it's due to our increasing comfort with shopping from mobile... The best APRIL FOOLS' DAY gags are the ones that are actually good ideas, like H&M's fake MARK ZUCKERBERG capsule collection... Can't buy this kind of press. Actually, you probably could... Today's gold star for personal commitment to sustainability in the wardrobe goes to LUKE SKYWALKER, who appears to have been wearing the same wacky sweater for over 30 years. | | | - Adam Wray, curator |
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 | REDEF |
| As Hedi Slimane parts ways with Saint Laurent, fashion critics reflect on what his tenure meant to the label and to the industry at large. | | |
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 | Man Repeller |
| In discussions surrounding racial diversity in the fashion industry, people seem to speak with dismal hope that maybe, just maybe, it will get better soon. The reality is that people are tired of waiting. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| Clothes filled with sensors and chips could give new meaning to the term wearables, now mainly wristbound digital devices like a fitness monitor or an Apple Watch. The Defense Department is investing to develop new combat uniforms that might communicate and change color, signaling friend or foe to help prevent deaths by friendly fire, or uniforms filled with optical sensors to make a soldier invisible to an enemy's night-vision goggles. | | |
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 | Business of Fashion |
| China's fashion designers are making serious inroads abroad but why aren't more of its photographers, stylists and other fashion creatives making a bigger global impact? | | |
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| The New York Times |
| Sometimes Anderson Cooper imagines himself as the Thomas Cromwell to his mother's Henry VIII, the voice of reason - the tether - to her buoyant impulsiveness. And sometimes he pictures Gloria Vanderbilt, who has been in the public eye since her birth 92 years ago, as an emissary from a distant star, marooned on this planet and trying to make sense of it all. | | |
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 | Haaretz |
| Jobless masses who once worked in developing countries' textile industries, unmitigated waste and severe damage to the environment are among the destruction wreaked by the global fashion industry. A conversation with fashion reporter-turned-sustainability vigilante Michal Arbel-Levy. | | |
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 | Not Just A Label |
| >From the future of bricks-and-mortar retailing to the concept of fashion week to changes in consumer behaviour and even the rise of sustainable fashion, how will today's emerging technologies change the tectonics of fashion as we know it? | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| Pierre Bergé made some inflammatory comments on the subject this week, which nevertheless raised some important questions about the commercialization and appropriation of Muslim fashion. | | |
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 | Digiday |
| Although many brands have an overarching urge to bend over backwards for the millennial consumer, Oscar de la Renta has different priorities. "We are your grandmother's fashion brand," said CEO Alex Bolen during the FACC Luxury Symposium panel Strong Heritage Brands. "We are very happy to have your grandmothers as our customers. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| "Pop-up stores are a tremendous format," said Burt Flickinger III, managing director at the Strategic Resource Group. "They are exponential ways to build a brand." These stores, and e-commerce, are putting big dents in older retail chains, Mr. Flickinger said. | | |
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 | Hollywood Reporter |
| Brands aren't simply focused on what the biggest stars in music are wearing onstage -- they're sponsoring the shows themselves. | | |
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 | Racked |
| Who's going to take Hedi Slimane's job at Saint Laurent? Following rumors that began circulating in January, it was confirmed today that the designer is leaving the French fashion brand. Slimane served as Saint Laurent's image and creative director for four years. | | |
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 | The Guardian |
| The Italian economist Guido Brera warns we're all complicit in a great deceit. Millennials have been robbed of what might have been previously considered their rights, including free education and an affordable place to live; instead they are distracted and satiated (to varying degrees) by fast food, fast tech and fast fashion. | | |
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 | T Magazine |
| For most people -- fashion folk included -- the house of Azzedine Alaïa is enigmatic. But not for Hideki Seo: the Hiroshima-born, Paris-based artist, who is also a designer in his own right, met Alaïa at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 2005, when the couturier reviewed thesis collections, Seo's among them. | | |
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 | Quartz |
| If your company uses 3D printing for anything confidential or sensitive, it might be time to invest in some soundproofing. Sometime in the future, everything is going to be 3D printed at a moment's notice. Need a new pair of glasses, a taco, or some painkillers? | | |
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