A suit isn’t merely a uniform, traditionally made of one fabric. It is, if one is a believer in the power of style, a sly opportunity to play with notions of passing while also signaling dissent.
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Thierry Mugler S/S 1997 RTW.
(Guy Marineau/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Tuesday - April 25, 2017 Tue - 04/25/17
rantnrave:// Nice to see JON MOY, formerly of FOUR PINS, writing about his style influences growing up in DETROIT. It's a story about family, fitting in, G.I. JOES, and dragging the family to military surplus stores, all in response to the question, "Jon, why do you dress the way you do?" Great read… G-III switched labels on an order of dresses that went to STEIN MART, as reported by LAUREN SHERMAN. One moment they’re IVANKA TRUMP, and then, voila! They’re ADRIENNE VITTADINI. As Sherman points out, the label heist isn’t unique to this situation. It’s possible G-III wanted to avoid putting the brand name into a discount retailer. There's another, more obvious (and perhaps too easy) reason: that it has to do with the recent controversy surrounding the Ivanka Trump brand. This also begs the question, if your brand is so generic that switching labels makes no discernible difference, why bother? Blank labels for all… THOMAS PAGE MCBEE writes about the unending associations of the suit, and eventually arrives at the kind that fits him. We're talking about identity here, in favor of—or in spite of—tailoring... ICYMI, GARY WARNETT unearthed this CHRIS HALL Champion skate deck from—1993. “Always good. Always early.” Indeed… As several malls close, one reopens in MIAMI... Great to see scholarship awards go to these young shoe designers... Shoutout to KAM DHILLON for continuing global fashion coverage at HIGHSNOBIETY. See what they're wearing in ALMATY... What do you call old millennials? Oldlennials.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
four in hand
The Business of Fashion
Rei Kawakubo: A Punk's Pain
by Tim Blanks
On the eve of a major retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the radical and reclusive Comme des Garçons designer talks to BoF’s Tim Blanks about the pain of constant creation and the impossibility of stopping.
Vestoj
The Suit
by Thomas Page McBee
What is a worse insult for the American man than being called a ‘suit’?
ShortList
How G.I. Joe dolls had a lasting influence on my sense of style
by Jon Moy
"Each doll had multiple dope mission-specific outfits and their uniforms and gear were like extensions of their personalities..."
The New York Times
Jimmy Choo on the Block as Owner Trades Luxury for Coffee
by Vanessa Friedman and Chad Bray
Is coffee a better business than fashion? The Reimann family, the reclusive German consumer goods billionaires who control JAB Holding, seems to think so.
The Business of Fashion
Amidst Backlash, Ivanka Trump Clothing Is Secretly Relabelled as Adrienne Vittadini
by Lauren Sherman
BoF has learned that G-III, the company that licenses Ivanka Trump ready-to-wear, has relabelled inventory without the knowledge of the brand and sold it to discount chain Stein Mart.
The New York Times
The Met Celebrates Irving Penn, Revolutionary Photographer
by Roberta Smith
Before I paid much attention to photographers’ credits in fashion magazines, I remember the wonderful shock of the slightly crazed, insuperably elegant photographs of foods or fading flowers that I often encountered in Vogue. Exuding an indelible, instantly recognizable style, they were the work of the great Irving Penn -- the first modern photographer whose name was fixed in my young brain.
How To Spend It
Yohji Yamamoto's mastery of menswear
by Mark C O’Flaherty
Once its enfant terrible, Yohji Yamamoto is now an elder statesman of fashion, his cool, minimalist menswear more desirable than ever and his label achieving double-digit growth. He talks to Mark C O’Flaherty about his striking collection and why he’ll never fall out of love with black.
Wallpaper* Magazine
Vault lines: we unwrap a few house secrets at Dior's museum-worthy new Paris archive
by Nick Vinson
Back in 1987, three years after Bernard Arnault acquired the house of Christian Dior, a major exhibition, ‘Hommage à Christian Dior 1947-1957’, was staged at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris to mark its 40th birthday.
The Guardian
'Big guys don't want to be treated like freaks': the plus-sized menswear revolution
by Stephen Moss
British men are getting taller, larger and broader -- and the high street is finally catching up.
Vice Sports
The Nazi Sibling Rivalry That Divided a Town and Created Modern Sportswear
by Brian Blickenstaff
By creating Adidas and Puma, the Dassler Brothers divided both their families and their home town, all while changing sports forever.
triptych
Refinery29 UK
How Much Has Actually Changed 4 Years On From The Rana Plaza Collapse?
by Jake Hall
Rana Plaza collapsed 4 years ago today, killing over 1,000 people and injuring around 2,500 others. How have things changed since then?
MTV News
Can Shopping Save The World?
by Liz Raiss
Probably not, but that’s no reason to stop trying.
Bloomberg
This Sweater Company Is Breaking a Cashmere Cartel
by Troy Patterson
In the remote countryside of Mongolia, a former financial analyst turned style entrepreneur finds the best yarn you can wear on your back.
Fast Company
Meet The Muslim Woman Who Inspired Nike To Enter The Hijab Business
by Elizabeth Segran
Pioneering UAE weightlifter Amna Al Haddad and other female athletes help Nike to address the sportswear needs of a massively underserved market.
Racked
Do Podcasts Make You Wanna Shop?
by Cam Wolf
What if a super handsome dude is telling you to do it?
Quartz
One very basic job in sneaker manufacturing is testing the limits of automation
by Marc Bain
Robots can do a lot of things, Adidas' CEO says-but not everything.
Jing Daily
From Modish Vane to Lawrence Li: These Are the Fashion Bloggers Shaping China's Luxury Industry (Part 2)
by Lotus Ruan
Here's an introduction to some of China's most influential fashionistas on Weibo and WeChat right now.
Glossy
How eBay Fashion is maintaining relevance in a crowded e-commerce space
by Bethany Biron
ebay wants to remind consumers that it’s more than an online auctioning site — it’s also a platform for finding luxury products. Despite its reputation for thrift, 81 percent of items on eBay are new and 87 percent are available to buy immediately, at a fixed price, no bidding required, according to Jill Ramsey, vp of soft goods at eBay. 
The Fashion Law
Off-White Files Suit Against Paige Denim, Argues Striped Marks Are Not Too Similar
Buzzy streetwear brand Off-White has filed a trademark lawsuit against Paige, asking a New York federal court to hold that its diagonal stripe trademark is not infringing the denim brand's own striped mark.
Racked
Guy Tang Is a Rainbow Hair Evangelist
by Cheryl Wischhover
His Instagram is a wonderland.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Tu Jo Mila"
K.K.
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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