What defines good PR is one’s depth of knowledge of clothing. To be a good PR, you have to love, understand, respect and know everything there is to know about design, designers, their collections and clothing. That has to be the start of everything that you do.
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Sun. Hat by Halston. The Castello San' Nicola, outside Palermo, Italy. Vogue 1967.
(Henry Clarke/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Friday - May 19, 2017 Fri - 05/19/17
rantnrave:// 1GRANARY's interview with public relations vet ED FILIPOWSKI made me smile. He talks passion, glamour, grit—all things that keep the industry moving. Filipowski's obviously a pro. The real deal. KCD didn't build such a loyal group of clients and staff without something special being there. And I agree that so many of the issues facing the industry could benefit handily from a simple shift in perspectives. It's a process. Yet I can't fully agree on continuing to invest in a kind of "front row to back row" hierarchy. How much of that front row has shifted over the past 5, 10, or 15+ years? Some of the gatekeeping in the industry is holding it back. Some of the outside observers of the industry are highly sophisticated. Many of them are not. Frankly some of them should be hired in. But I get it. There are some real differences and a whole lot of nuance when it comes to learned experience, literacy, fandom, business, and reputation. When it comes to fashion, it's almost a sixth sense. Fashion is open to commentary from any keyboard surfing, armchair enthusiast out there. Couldn't agree more that the rulebook is gone. I'll second Filipowski here: trust (and hone) your instincts... No shade to influencers, but you've got to admit this is pretty funny. Fictional blogger DELILAH drops some real gems here: "If they don't have 10K, then walk away." L>O>L. Oh, and check out how Delilah stacks the fashion week hierarchy... Now on to a topic that just sucks for everyone involved: model ULRIKKE HOYER took to social media to talk about getting canceled by a casting agent for being "too big"... Designer RICHARD QUINN opened a print studio in LONDON, and the designers of ALISTAIR JAMES gave the studio a shoutout. Nice to see that sense of community... Found myself captivated by ANNA WINTOUR's thoughts on being a fashion editor—in 1997... REI KAWAKUBO covers the VILLAGE VOICE and I love it... One last gem from that fashion blogger mockumentary: "Like, literally, anything can and will happen." Bon weekend everybody.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
q1
1 Granary
PR mogul Ed Filipowski on the power of communication
by Aravin Sandran
"Not everyone is entitled to have an opinion."
The Business of Fashion
The Hidden Links Between Cristóbal Balenciaga and Demna Gvasalia
by Osman Ahmed
On the surface Cristóbal Balenciaga and Demna Gvasalia couldn’t be more different. But the connections between the enigmatic couturier and his buzzy heir run deep.
Racked
How to Close a Store
by Eliza Brooke
Where the clothing, mannequins, and hangers go when the lights shut off.
Village Voice
The Cult of Rei Kawakubo: Comme des Garçons’ Radical Creator Electrifies at the Met
by Jennifer Krasinski
Designer Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons has always maintained that fashion never interested her. Clothes are her sole preoccupation; her passion, the New.
The New York Times
We Settle a Big Fashion Rivalry: Nashville vs. Columbus
by Steven Kurutz
Far from the coasts, two cities vie for fashion bronze. Our reporter checks out the scenes and, after many expense-account dinners, selects a winner.
Bloomberg
This Startup Is Reinventing a Preppy Cult Classic
by Troy Patterson
Jack Carlson, of Rowing Blazers, is taking the boating-club sport coat back to its roots.
The New York Times
From Pantene to Polo: The New Man at Ralph Lauren
by Vanessa Friedman
Patrice Louvet’s appointment is the latest example of a luxury brand looking to the world of consumer products for a new leader.
The Cut
Revisit Arthur Elgort’s Most Iconic Fashion Photos
by Hattie Crisell
A new London exhibition features portraits of Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, and Karlie Kloss.
The Fashion Law
Why Isn't the FTC Doing More to Fight Undisclosed Ads in Fashion?
The Federal Trade Commission (“FTC”) has been issuing messages for several years now that it will, in fact, start cracking down on undisclosed sponsored posts.
Vogue
Alabama Chanin Is Launching a New Collection of Seed-to-Shelf, Made-in-the-USA Basics
by Nicole Phelps
CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alum Natalie Chanin of Alabama Chanin is raising the sustainability stakes with her new offering.
10x
The Washington Post
Trump administration formally launches NAFTA renegotiation
by Ana Swanson
Negotiations with Canada and Mexico begin as soon as Aug. 16, the administration said.
AnOther
The Emerging Designer Bringing Back Fashion as Spectacle
by Laura Jordan
Laura Jordan speaks with the Dazed 100-listed Richard Quinn about the relevance of the fashion show, and why sustainability is a new kind of activism.
Hunger Magazine
The fashion label that's 100% made in Britain from former Alexander McQueen designers, Alistair James
by Kesia Inkersole
Meet the design duo Alistair James, made up of womenswear designer Nicholas Alistair Walsh from Yorkshire and London-born textiles designer David James Wise. The two met and formed a relationship while working at Alexander McQueen, moved in together, and naturally began designing, making and creating.
WWD
Mobile Tech, Digital Platforms, AI Among Key Topics at Decoded Fashion London Summit
by Lorelei Marfil
The summit was hosted in association with the British Fashion Council this week.
Glossy
Bringing retail to 'the speed of feed': Facebook's quest to court luxury brands
by Bethany Biron
Facebook is a paradox for luxury retailers. On the one hand, its size makes it hard to ignore. But on the other, there’s nothing more mass -- and less exclusive -- than Facebook.
The Rake
Street Smarts: Mods, Rudeboys, Teddy Boys and Punks
by Charlie Thomas
From mods to rudeboys and teddy boys to punks, British postwar life was bedecked with subcultures using music, attitude and clothes to try to prove themselves special.
Lean Luxe
Growth markets: China hogs the headlines, but for emerging brands, mature markets matter far more
by Edwin Jiang
We spoke to several modern luxury brands to ask: Is the Chinese market really a growth market for them? And if not, which markets are?
Dazed Digital
The Nike shoe that was the uniform of Italy's 90s club kids
by Calum Gordon
A new limited edition book explores the phenomenon of its Air Max 97 through the voices of those who knew and wore them best, from Riccardo Tisci to Anna Dello Russo.
The Conversation
Australian fashion is thriving, so where are the policies to take it to the world?
by Michael Beverland and Kiri Delly
When Malcolm Turnbull released his innovation agenda, the arts were missing. But Australia's fashion industry is a true innovator, comparable to French and Italian fashion houses. It's time to recognise this at home.
The Guardian
RETRO READ: Anna Wintour on leaving London for New York
by Anna Wintour
19 May 1997: The British editor of "American Vogue" has thrived in US publishing despite once getting fired for being too "European."
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