For me, however, the supreme luxury, even today, is not to own beautiful cars, big apartments, or vacation homes, but rather to be able to prolong the student life into an advanced age. A student’s life is one of daily improvisation, a taste for wandering the streets, long hours in a cafe, a flaunted detachment, indifference to honors and emoluments, and the symbolic trinkets with which people like to deck themselves to ward off the passing years.
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Dior S/S 2004 haute couture, Paris, Jan. 19, 2004.
(Jean-Pierre Muller/AFP/Getty Images)
Tuesday - May 23, 2017 Tue - 05/23/17
rantnrave:// Dressing is such a fundamental part of social life that it's easy to forget how meaningful it can be. But look back at changing styles in corsets, cravats, petticoats, and knee breeches, and it's clear how personal expression in dress is a powerful aspect of social life. From one norm and radicalization to the next. DEIRDRE CLEMENTE writes about the rise of business casual and its ties to the culture of SILICON VALLEY. Was happy to see mention of sociologist HERBERT BLUMER, who looked at fashion as means of "collective selection," as a way of identifying with a group... VESTOJ editor ANJA ARONOWSKY CRONBERG spoke to BOF about what led her to look at fashion through the study of sociology... This interview with VIRGIL ABLOH is another great read on the social power of clothing. Abloh talks about why OFF-WHITE has everything and nothing to do with the company as a clothing line. It's a company, it's a tribe, it's a network, and the clothes are sometimes secondary to the whole enterprise. He also talks about getting to the point as an individual where one can't physically take on any more clothes, and how that's circulating out into networks of swapping and trade in companies like GRAILED and EBAY. Consider what that means for fashion... A LOUIS VUITTON x SUPREME pop-up has the potential to rock whatever block it ends up on, with fans and activity expanding across a radius several blocks wide. Per this NYC community board, it ain't happening on BOND ST... NOAH just gets it right. Stopped into their SOHO store over the weekend, and the company's attention to detail really shows. In this blog post, Noah is asking customers to talk back on the brand's packaging—should it remain minimal, and arguably less stylish, in order to cut down on waste? It's an honest appraisal of the issues and doesn't hide any of the conflicting values between style and shopping. No filter. Speaking of which, there's a huge opportunity to go "circular economy" with e-commerce packaging. Can anyone do it?... I love seeing students' work. Was happy to catch the PARSONS 2017 BFA show. Coming away from the presentation I can't help but feel the future of fashion is in good hands. JI WON CHOI and EMMA CLEVELAND were awarded the KERING x PARSONS prizes. Well-deserved, and congrats to the entire BFA class of 2017. Keep it going.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
cellular automata
Hypebeast
The Point of OFF-WHITE Isn't to Buy OFF-WHITE
by Arby Li
Virgil Abloh on designing the 99% of your life outside of clothing and what the future is for the consumer generation.
Fashionista
What Are You Really Getting With Bespoke Beauty Products?
by Lauren Hubbard
A look at the customized hair and skin care taking over the market right now.
WWD
Rhode Island Jewelry Industry Experiences Made in America Revival
by Misty White Sidell
WWD ventured to Providence and surveyed the onetime “jewelry capital of the world” as it undergoes a revival - with brands including Tiffany and Shinola now manufacturing there.
Complex
Has Sneaker Reselling Died or Is It Just Evolving?
by Matt Welty
Sneaker reselling isn't the same as it used to be. Are the brands edging out resellers or is it changing all together?
The New York Times
The Pippa Middleton Wedding Dress Effect
by Vanessa Friedman
The lace gown may change the fortunes of the edgy British designer Giles Deacon.
The Atlantic
How Business Casual Became a Thing
by Deirdre Clemente
The American office was, until a few decades ago, the last stronghold of fashion formality. Silicon Valley changed that.
The Business of Fashion
How I Broke Into Fashion
by Kati Chitrakorn
Anja Aronowsky Cronberg went from graduating with a Fine Art degree to becoming editor of Acne Paper and launching her own publication. How did she do it?
The Conversation
The fashion of Twin Peaks: why David Lynch's TV show is back in style
by Catherine Spooner
The fashion of Twin Peaks looked to the past and predicted the future.
NOAH NYC
Our Packaging Sucks
"Packaging has been an ongoing debate for us. So far, we’ve opted to keep it as minimal as possible, and that sucks, according to many of our customers... But when we ask ourselves what happens after enjoying that brief, throwback sensation of being a kid opening a present, when we wonder where all the hand-made paper, cleverly folded boxes, ribbons and glitter go, the answer is almost always the same: it gets tossed into the trash."
Fung Global Retail & Technology
Report: Fast Fashion Speeding Toward Ultrafast Fashion
by Deborah Weinswig and
New players such as Boohoo.com, ASOS and Missguided are bringing products from design to sale in as little as a week -even faster than the fast-fashion pioneers Zara and H&M. How is fast fashion turning into ultrafast fashion?
beatnik
Racked
What Happens When a Beauty Conference Brings Politics Into the Mix
by Cheryl Wischhover
Beautycon wants YouTube and Instagram beauty gurus to help "evangelize" for political causes.
The Business of Fashion
The Business of Beautycon
by Chantal Fernandez
Chief executive Moj Mahdara is accelerating the hysteria-inducing beauty festival’s expansion into media as brands shift more and more marketing spend online.
High Snobiety
What the Hell Are Resort and Cruise Collections and Why Are They So Lucrative?
by Kam Dhillon
We've rounded up everything you need to know.
Bloomberg
Executives Try to Sell the Idea That the American Mall Isn't Dead
by Sarah Mulholland
Retailers and shopping-center owners are gathering in Las Vegas this week prepared to send a message: The demise of the American mall has been greatly exaggerated. Or, in the language of the moment, it’s fake news -- mostly.
Glossy
Could weed be the next frontier of fashion?
by Jessica Schiffer
Fashion has never been one to shy away from scenes considered edgy or fringe, which could make it the perfect partner for the growing cannabis industry. As the legalization of marijuana continues to spread, a handful of designers have started looking to weed culture for inspiration.
The Cut
The Designer and Rancher on a Mission to Make Fashion Green
by Christine Whitney
Gabriela Hearst on transitioning from Candela to her namesake brand, her ranch in Uruguay, and the sweater she made for Planned Parenthood.
W Magazine
How Natalia Vodianova and Antoine Arnault Met, Fell in Love, and Created Their Modern Family
by Alexandra Marshall
An intimate look at the lives of supermodel Natalia Vodianova and luxury impresario Antoine Arnault.
WWD
Is There Life After Print?
by Kara Bloomgarden-Smoke
What do magazine editors do for the next act?
The Guardian
'The Face' magazine returns -- will it work in the digital era?
by Mark Hooper
The defunct style bible is set to be revived by the publisher of "Mixmag." Former editors consider whether it can find its place in 2017.
i-D Magazine
parsons’s mfa class of 2017 on their hopes for the future
by Alice Newell-Hanson
We check in with four graduating students from the school’s Fashion Design MFA program, to preview their final collections and discuss their plans.
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"Make It With You"
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