To me fashion, and design in general, is a sort of reflection of what’s in the air, what people think is relevant or interesting. The idea, the music, the culture come first and fashion follows, as it’s a way to express ideas or your own personal perspective.
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Gunilla floats along the Sigatoka River, wearing Oscar de la Renta. Fiji, Vogue 1971.
(J. P. Zachariasen/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Friday - May 26, 2017 Fri - 05/26/17
rantnrave:// Really enjoyed this profile on the creators of the SUPREME SAINT in WIRED. Like quantification? Here's a few numbers from the story: $20,000 in five seconds, a line in downtown NYC 3,000 people long, and 1,935,195,305 purchase attempts to a server on a single day. The fan fervor has created some incredible efforts in procurement. It doesn't seem to be slowing down... Utilitarian clothing has become a lens through which we view—well, whatever we want. CRAIG GREEN's connection to workwear comes from family, and he uses those inspirations, combined with other artisanal feats, to create some of the best menswear on offer in recent years. Green brought those inspirations to the fictional universe of ALIEN: COVENANT. And for the fans: THIRD LOOKS has a fantastic post on the costumes from the original ALIEN. In further utilitarian vibes, there's the heralding of gorpcore, which JASON CHEN writes is the formulation of camping gear as a look, or shall we say lewk. It overlaps with streetwear, and I agree that the performance aspect of clothing—technical fabrics, environmental protection—are symbolic effects as much as they are functional. I've seen subtle nuances in gorpcore, both urban and suburban. Love seeing more style writing out in the world... Closer views of VALENTINO Resort... Shoutout to RICHIE SIEGEL for his podcast interview with MATT SCANLAN of NAADAM. Yurts, cashmere, and bags full of cash = best origin story for a company ever... A journey to the heart of the largest SEPHORA in NORTH AMERICA. Megaretail with a sense of humor... FashionREDEF will be on holiday for MEMORIAL DAY in the USA. Will return Tuesday. Enjoy.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
coriander
Wired
The Bot Makers Who Rule the Obsessive World of Streetwear
by Lauren Schwartzberg
In the fanatical world of limited-release streetwear, milliseconds matter---and bots rule.
The Cut
First Came Normcore. Now Get Ready for Gorpcore.
by Jason Chen
Declaring oneself as seriously outdoorsy and politically aware.
Loose Threads
An Unexpected Journey to the Source — with Matt Scanlan of Naadam Cashmere
by Richie Siegel
On the 21st episode of the Loose Threads Podcast, a show about the intersection of fashion, technology and commerce, I talk with Matt Scanlan, the founder of Naadam, a direct to consumer brand that is reinventing the cashmere supply chain. Matt started Naadam on a chance encounter in Mongolia, which led him down a rabbit hole of launching an NGO, then a cashmere yarn company, and finally the digitally-native business that Naadam is known for today. 
The New Yorker
A Workwear Jacket Worthy of Drake and “Alien: Covenant”
by Ned Beauman
The young British fashion designer Craig Green has made a name for himself by creating fabular versions of traditional work uniforms.
The New York Times
Anna Sui Gets a Degree, and Her Due
by Guy Trebay
The designer, beloved for her memorable New York shows, has a full-scale retrospective opening this week at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London.
1 Granary
Copenhagen Fashion Summit: the kick in the a** the industry needs?
by Ottilie Landmark
A conference aiming to make the global fashion industry sustainable, it almost sounds too good to be true.
The Fashion Law
What are Brands Really Paying Ambassadors to Do?
by Nicole Malick
Whether it is latest it-girl or an Oscar-nominated actress, fashion brands love to have famous faces represent their brands. While posing for ad campaigns may be the most obvious iteration of these ambassadorships, a lot more goes into these contracts than meets the eye.
Fashionista
The Business of Being a Fitness Influencer
by Maria Bobila
Fitness and wellness enthusiasts with large social media followings are cashing in on a trillion-dollar market.
High Snobiety
Is Tbilisi, Georgia the Next Global Fashion Capital?
by Nico Amarca
Demna Gvasalia's popularity has placed Tbilisi, Georgia on the radar for Westerners unlike ever before. Could it become the next global fashion capital?
The Business of Fashion
Community Is Core to Next-Gen Brands
by Lauren Sherman
A crop of emerging brands are bucking industry trends by doing more than just selling to customers -- they’re developing fandoms.
lee geum-ja
Quartz
The body is political, especially when it comes to women and their hair in South Korea
by Crystal Tai
As Park Geun-hye's corruption trial began this week, there was a lot of chatter about her hair, a style that is part of the uniform of female middle age in South Korea.
The New York Times
Critical Shopper: J. Crew: Too Ambitious to Be Basic, Too Basic to Be Luxe
by Jon Caramanica
How we fell out of love with a company that once showed us how to dress.
Die, Workwear!
Progressives and The Suit
by Derek Guy
This isn’t a political blog, but clothes have an inherently political dimension. For decades now, jeans have coasted on their association with egalitarianism and honest, proletarian integrity.
Racked
The Patrick Bateman Lifestyle Brand Lives On
by Cam Wolf
Well-groomed, well-dressed, and murderous.
Dazed Digital
Super Yaya is celebrating 100% Afrocosmic fashion
by Vanessa Hsieh
Super Yaya is a brand that wants to defy your preconceived ideas of African fashion. "In the first place, I was just trying to communicate the idea that this is Africa," the Lebanese Ivory Coast-based designer behind the label, Rym Beydoun explains.
Grailed
Maharishi: The Other Trailblazing Streetwear Brand of 1994
by Jacob Victorine
1994 was groundbreaking for urban culture. Most Hip Hop heads will cite it as the year Nas debuted with Illmatic and Biggie dropped Ready to Die. Streetwear fans will mention it as the year Supreme opened on Lafayette Street and NEIGHBORHOOD set up shop in Harajuku, Tokyo... It’s the very same year that Hardy Blechman founded the cult U.K. streetwear brand maharishi.
Glossy
How House Account is leveling the playing field for small boutiques
by Jill Manoff
“I’m a control freak,” said boutique owner Laura Vinroot Poole, on a recent call from her home in Charlotte. “That’s part of the business, if you’re good at it.” Indeed, the trait has served her well. For the past 20 years, since opening luxury boutique Capitol, Vinroot Poole has successfully charted her own path, rocky retail landscape notwithstanding.
Quartz
Scientists found a way to turn ordinary clothes into power generators using body movement
by Marc Bain
They produce enough electricity to power LED lights or a Fitbit. A phone could be next.
Convicts
Interview: Tara St. James
Tara St. James is a fashionista with a conscience. Founder of the brand Study, Tara is half-businesswoman, half-designer, and all purpose. She’s introducing ethically sourced material, ethical production practices, and consumer transparency into the New York fashion world.
Polyester Magazine
The Jennifer Lawrence Effect
by Jacob Seferian
Did you catch [insert any late night talk show]? Spoiler: it involved another slim, probably white, cisgender star sharing quirky anecdotes about their “awkward” adolescence.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Them Changes"
Thundercat
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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