We take feedback very seriously. Social media is a constant feedback loop, and sometimes you have to rethink something if you’re getting consistent feedback about it. But it’s a fine line. Because if you want to do something new, there will always be pushback. In the end, you have to dictate innovation and absorb the hate.
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Backstage views. Romance Was Born Resort '18, Sydney, May 18, 2017.
(Jennifer Polixenni Brankin/WireImage/Getty Images)
Monday - June 05, 2017 Mon - 06/05/17
rantnrave:// Fashion reflects the mood. ROBIN GIVHAN's piece on this year's CFDA Awards tackles the political dimensions the ceremony has taken on given the overall climate. How long will the reactionary environment last? On that note, BARRY MICHAEL COOPER spoke to DAPPER DAN, and it's the best response to the GUCCI controversy. Thank you... VIRGIL ABLOH is everywhere. Not mad about it. Always insightful, always making moves. His latest interview is from the opening of the second OFF-WHITE store in HONG KONG. I'm trying to think of a label more deft at moving in and out of media, spaces, and yeah—clothes. Haven't come up with one. You? The Off-White SS 2018 presentation at PITTI UOMO will feature the work of JENNY HOLZER... STEPHEN JONES' takeover of the SHOWSTUDIO TUMBLR continues. The posts are a click and swipe through some of the most mind-expanding millinery creations in fashion. Is it millinery or magic? Styrene and LED... Accepting your superhuman speed... I've said it before, I'll say it again, AMAZON should make clothes branded under its Basics or Elements line (but only with great product). Here's a list of Amazon private labels from LOOSE THREADS... Resort lookbooks are out. Some favorites so far: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM and NARCISO RODRIGUEZ. In her review of Narciso, NICOLE PHELPS mentions the pieces that didn't make the lookbook. Perhaps this is where fashion is heading: favoring process over ubiquitous imagery; highlighting what gets left out, what's left to discover.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
table flip
The Business of Fashion
What Trump’s Climate Reversal Means for the Fashion Industry
by Chantal Fernandez
While largely symbolic, the US president’s decision to withdraw from the Paris climate agreement still has dangerous global implications. But many industry leaders remain committed to their individual carbon emission reduction goals.
The New York Times
The Fashion Outlaw Dapper Dan
by Barry Michael Cooper
Twenty-five years after luxury labels sued his Harlem boutique out of existence, Gucci looks to him for inspiration.
Vogue
Vetements Is a No-Show—Demna Gvasalia Announces He’s Stepping Away from the Fashion Show System
by Sarah Mower
“I got bored. I think it needs to enter a new chapter. Fashion shows are not the best tool.“
The Washington Post
Even at the fashion industry’s frothiest gala, politics is the preoccupation
by Robin Givhan
In an unusual step, the CFDA will honor activists in addition to designers at its annual gala.
Racked
Facebook Wants Me to Dress Like ‘The Handmaid's Tale’
by Kate Hakala
The Offred look is everywhere.
South China Morning Post
Kanye collaborator and Off-White founder Virgil Abloh speaks out
by Divia Harilela
Fashion designer - the ‘yin to Kanye’s yang’ - tells us about his upcoming collections, why he loves Rei Kawakubo and Raf Simons, his desire to lead a legacy brand, and where he’s taking Off-White.
Fashionista
How Being Fearless Helped Keith Pollock Become a Digital Vanguard
by Tyler McCall
"I always say to friends, 'You should never take a job that doesn't terrify you.'"
Quartz
For luxury brands, selling clothes is basically a marketing expense
by Marc Bain
At big fashion houses, fashion is just a loss leader.
Bloomberg
Why Consumers Aren't Spending
by Gary Shilling
Confidence is up sharply, yet retail sales are down.
WWD
Central Saint Martins Hosts Annual BA Fashion Show
by Lorelei Marfil
The show highlighted works from 41 students studying fashion design with marketing, knitwear, men’s wear, fashion print and women’s wear as their specializations.
wavelength
Wallpaper* Magazine
Walk this way: Paul Andrew steps up for his debut Salvatore Ferragamo shoe collection
by Laura Hawkins
"There are 15,000 pairs of archive designs at the Salvatore Ferragamo museum in Florence," enthuses Paul Andrew, appointed the house’s first design director of women’s footwear last September.
Die, Workwear!
Paolo Scafora, Blurring the Lines
by Derek Guy
Last week, I chatted with Paolo, the namesake of the company, about his family’s work. “My grandfather, Gennaro, founded the business,” he says. “He was a Neapolitan shoemaker, back when workshops used to double as people’s homes. In the morning, everyone would be working to make shoes, then in the evening, the spaces were cleaned up and people pulled out the beds. People lived day to night in the same spaces like that."
Dazed Digital
The documentary exposing the dark reality of fast fashion
by Daisy Woodward
We meet "Machines" director Rahul Jain, whose striking new film snagged the Sundance World Cinema Documentary award for Cinematography.
Glossy
The Kanye Effect: Why hip-hop fashion is on the rise
by Jessica Schiffer
The last few years have seen a boom in rapper-branded clothing lines, redefining the concept of merchandise and increasing the backing artists’ clout in the fashion industry.
Footwear News
Talking with Two of Nordstrom’s Game-Changing Female Executives
by Charlie Carballo and Katie Abel
Kristin Frossmo and Olivia Kim are two major forces who are helping shape the department store’s future.
South China Morning Post
How vintage e-commerce sites like Vestiaire Collective are disrupting the luxury market
by Deva Lee
Vestiaire Collective co-founder Fanny Moizant explains how vintage adds to luxury, rather than diminishing it, and why the company is expanding to Asia
Fashionista
This Ethical Indian Label Is Bridging the Gap Between Old-School Tailoring and Fast Fashion
by Whitney Bauck
Nostalgia-fueled brand The Summer House makes ethically-produced, quality-focused clothing you can actually afford.
The Guardian
What am I bid? Prices go through the roof at Christie's handbag auction
by Rupert Neate
A Hermès or a Birkin is now a high-performing investment as well as a fashion statement after years of record prices.
Vogue Italia
Be Body Aware by Tia Duffy
by Lucia D'Angelo
A conversation with Tia Duffy, the brain behind the project Be Body Aware.
Atlas Obscura
The Wartime Spies Who Used Knitting as an Espionage Tool
by Natalie Zarrelli
Grandma was just making a sweater. Or was she?
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