If you have the art, you also need the commerce. If someone was starting a label now, everything you might have learnt about the business of fashion previously has definitely changed.
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Flying. Models wear Lanvin Castillo against a backdrop by Lila de Nobili, set painter for Paris Opera, 1961.
(Henry Clarke/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Friday - June 16, 2017 Fri - 06/16/17
rantnrave:// PITTI UOMO is labeled a trade show, yet I love that it transcends typical notions of a trade event, acting as a kind of experimental ground for performance, exhibition, and (go Pitti peacocks) display. Here are some dispatches from on the ground in FLORENCE: sprezzatura-meets-sport in new label THE GIGI, OFF-WHITE's runway show as a guest designer at Pitti, and the exhibition "The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion" by OLIVIER SAILLARD... Off-White is one of the most compelling labels in fashion right now. I think of it as more of a channel—an actively evolving project that takes cues from nearly real-time exchange online—than a literal clothing line. It's connected via references, collaborators, fans, and clothes, tapping into how we're bound to each other via electronic signals. And that connection—intimate and remote at the same time—is itself a platform for creativity. How do you build a fashion project where the clothes seem almost secondary? This is the answer. And it's changing all the time. VIRGIL ABLOH and HERON PRESTON sat down for a panel discussion at STOCKHOLM FASHION WEEK, and their message is clear: be generative, be inspired, and keep moving forward... Founder of VETEMEMES DAVIL TRAN has expanded his parody line, still orbiting the work of DEMNA GVASALIA. The new label? BOOLENCIAGA. So is that Bool as in Boolean? I can't keep the nerd references to myself, I'm sorry... I'm always touched by the close friendship between AUDREY HEPBURN and HUBERT DE GIVENCHY. Great to see this exhibition celebrating the designer's work... J. CREW debt swap: resistance, or a model?... This should be a surprise to no one, but I welcome the research... POPE FRANCIS, #influencer.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
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Racked
MAGA Hats Are the Newest Form of Pre-Teen Rebellion
by Hilary George-Parkin
It’s the must-have DC class trip souvenir for white male middle schoolers.
Hypebeast
Watch Virgil Abloh and Heron Preston Give a Talk at Stockholm Fashion Week
by Jack Stanley
"They got mad at me, even though it blew up on HYPEBEAST."
Refinery29
The Only Brand To Endorse Melania Would Like To Stay Out Of Politics
by Connie Wang
Dolce and Gabanna's new protest video and endorsements of Melania would make it seem like they're politically motivated. But they say they're anything but.
British Vogue
In Florence, Energetic and Ephemeral Fashion
by Suzy Menkes
The feisty displays and fast flow at Pitti is balanced by a thoughtful and poetic Uffizi Museum show.
Futurity
Dressmakers have way better 3D vision than other pros
by Yasmin Anwar-UC Berkeley
When tested against people in other professions, dressmakers—not surgeons—have the best 3D vision. In some cases, the competition doesn't even come close.
The Business of Fashion
Brioni Names Nina-Maria Nitsche as New Creative Director
by Limei Hoang
The Italian menswear brand has appointed Nina-Maria Nitsche as its first female creative director, replacing Justin O’Shea who abruptly exited after just six months in the role.
The Fashion Law
What is Really Driving Instagram's Push for Advertising Disclosures?
Instagram is attempting to get one step ahead of the sleeping giant that is the Federal Trade Commission (“FTC”) Act. In light of widespread FTC Act violations on its platform, the Facebook-owned social media app announced that it is in the process of enabling users to add a "paid partnership with" label that will appear above posted photos and videos.
The New York Times
Anita Pallenberg Changed How We All Dress, Not Just Keith Richards
by Vanessa Friedman
The actress and model, who died this week at age 75, is known for influencing the Rolling Stones’ look, but she’s the one who was the real boho pioneer.
Fashionista
Despite the 'Retailpocalypse,' This Fashion Retailer Has Been Quietly Thriving Since the Recession
by Dhani Mau
The Los Angeles-based group owns and operates fashion-forward boutiques in many of the best hotels and resorts in the world -- and it's thriving when most retailers are not.
Yahoo Style UK
Meet Rain Dove: The firefighter turned model who embraces being genderless
by Lauren Sharkey
The no-nonsense 27-year-old is mistaken for being transgender on a regular basis.
if then
Crux
Vatican tailors, cobblers try to adapt to Francis's 'papal athleisure'
by Claire Giangravè
Pope Francis's emphasis on simplicity and frugality is a hit all around the world, but it's produced just a bit of backlash among fashion-conscious Italians, including an exclusive club of tailors and shoemakers who outfit pontiffs -- some of whom are a little nostalgic for the days when being pope also meant dressing to the nines.
Tablet Magazine
When Modesty Becomes Trendy: An Orthodox Woman's Perspective
by Sharon Silver
I’ve always felt empowered by dressing modestly, a sign of beauty in the Orthodox world. But now that less-revealing fashion is more au courant, it’s complicated.
1 Granary
The Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp -- SHOW 2017
by Aya Noël
It's always worth it.
Fast Company
These Gorgeous Designer Gowns Are Made By Blind Dressmakers
by Elizabeth Segran
When fashion designer Tish Cox decided to grow her business, she found a factory where blind sewers create garments with impeccable craftsmanship.
British Vogue
The LVMH Prize: Why It Matters
by Adam Wray
Ahead of the announcement of this year's winners , Vogue looks at how the LVMH Prize became one of the most important contests in fashion.
South China Morning Post
Rag & Bone founder on retail woes and politicisation of fashion
by Jing Zhang
On the 15th anniversary of the New York brand, its chief executive says it is “horrific” and “ridiculous” that “people are afraid to say who they would or wouldn’t dress, or that they are making clothes in Mexico versus America.”
Digiday
No longer a one-off: How pop-ups became part of retailers' core strategy
by Yuyu Chen
More and more retailers are seeking a brick-and-mortar presence in the form of a pop-up store, and the goal is not always just sales.
The Hairpin
The 1830s Are Back Like A Statement Sleeve
by Rebecca Christopher
Is Romantic nationalism back too?
WWD
Which Fashion Apparel Online Retailer Is Tops Based on Traffic?
by Arthur Zaczkiewicz
SEMrush crunched direct, referral, search and social media traffic to fashion web sites.
Los Angeles Times
New York landlord Brookfield takes over giant L.A. fashion mart
by Roger Vincent
Brookfield buys Fashion District office complex California Market Center in downtown Los Angeles with plans to convert much of it into creative offices.
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"Where Will I Go"
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