Fast fashion is pure service you know, it’s not even fashion. I mean, I don’t know why we call it fashion. It’s a service.
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Prada S/S 2018 set. Milan Men's Fashion Week, June 18, 2017.
(Venturelli/WireImage/Getty Images)
Monday - June 19, 2017 Mon - 06/19/17
rantnrave:// It's MILAN Men's Fashion Week, S/S 2018 edition. I love the techno utopia PRADA is traveling to lately. MIUCCIA PRADA has been exploring modernism, of which the concept of animated imagery—movement and narrative derived from combining still frames—was a key part. The S/S 2018 men's show explored not only the moving narratives across still frames in comic books, but how we see in frames across our phones, TVs, tablets, and computers, some at variable refresh rates, inside flattened-design UX and social media squares. How did the concept of frames translate to the clothes? Many ways. There were graphic stripes, manga-like printed pages, and lines that echoed the modern shapes of the machine age. Some of the graphic treatments were a continuation from the women's resort show. It has a finger on the pulse of what's happening in the world, without too-easy lines drawn to streetwear. Smart... At ZEGNA, the collection played to the company's strength in textile development, so why can't the slideshows be more progressive about showing that? Switch up the swipe and scroll a bit... NSS MAGAZINE has my favorite street style from PITTI: Part 1 and Part 2... Many decades forward, perhaps we'll look back on the roaring teens of the twenty-first century and think "streetwear." There are burgeoning efforts to historicize streetwear culture, and BOBBY HUNDREDS has been a galvanizing force toward defining streetwear's roots. He debuted the documentary BUILT TO FAIL at the LA FILM FESTIVAL. There are some real gems in the trailer, such as TOMMY HILFIGER saying what streetwear can't be ("This," as he gestures up and down to the grey suit he's wearing), and RUSSELL SIMMONS saying "Ten years later your dad's wearing that s***. Like, you don't want that." No hypebeast 101 courses yet, but this gets an A (+ in my book)... Surely this is not an ICYMI situation, but just IC: BONOBOS is owned by WALMART, WHOLE FOODS is owned by AMAZON, and the internet was ablaze with enough hot takes to singe the fur off a wildebeest in even the most remote stretches of the SERENGETI. Retail is wild. Fashion, tamed. Or at least, that's how THÉOPHILE GAULTIER saw it.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
m&a
032c
Behind-the-scenes with STEFANO PILATI
by Eva Kelley
For 032c’s Issue 32, Stefano Pilati teamed up with photographer Lukas Wassmann for the 18-page editorial “Energy Crisis.” The models were cast from Pilati’s inner circle and looks were selected from his personal wardrobe for a full family affair. Read the interview with the former head of design of Yves Saint Laurent and Zegna here.
The New York Times
Pitti Uomo: From a Kick of Color to a Reminder of Reality
by Guy Trebay
The men’s wear trade show, which often pushes into territory unexplored by the fashion capitals, feted Jonathan Anderson and Virgil Abloh this season.
Racked
Our Jeans Are Ruining the Planet, but This Company Wants to Fix That
by Zan Romanoff
Why you should care about natural indigo.
The Business of Fashion
Luxury Brands Are Snapping Up Farms to Control their Supply Chains
by Georgina Safe
From Hermès to Gucci, brands are using vertical integration to safeguard the supply of expensive materials by acquiring farms of Merino sheep, crocodile, alligator and python.
Complex
Bobby Hundreds Explains Why The First Ever Documentary on Streetwear Almost Never Happened
by Bobby Hundreds
Bobby Hundreds reveals the challenges of making 'Built to Fail,' a documentary on streetwear.
Fashionista
How Indie Menswear Magazine 'Fucking Young!' Became a Guardian Angel for Emerging Designers
by Maura Brannigan
In a market that isn't exactly hospitable to print publications, this Barcelona-based glossy is thriving. How? Let's start with its name.
Bloomberg
Arnault Bullish on Macron Reforms Despite Fears Over Economy
by Robert Williams and Caroline Connan
French luxury tycoon Bernard Arnault is optimistic about the country’s new president, but he’s worried about the global economy.
Dazed Digital
Virgil Abloh on getting political with Jenny Holzer
by Susanne Madsen
‘It’s not just fashion for fashion’s sake’ - the designer discusses how refugees, borders and immigration provided the inspiration for his Pitti show
GQ Style
Off-White and J.W. Anderson Take Two Different Routes to the Top of the Fashion Heap
by Noah Johnson
At Pitti Uomo, despite two very different paths to success, designers Virgil Abloh and Jonathan Anderson share more than just the spotlight.
1 Granary
New Perspectives with Adam Murray at the head of FCP
by Elli Weir
Exploring digital frontiers and analogue vanguards in fashion communication past, present and future.
diffusion
Jacobin
The High Cost of High Fashion
by Minh-Ha T. Pham
Campaigns against “fast fashion” scapegoat working-class consumers while doing little to improve the conditions of garment workers.
Die, Workwear!
What’s the Point of Handwork?
by Derek Guy
"To be sure, a lot of what’s admired today is purely about embellishment – the pick stitching along the edge of a lapel or a finely sewn Milanese buttonhole. And ironically, this work is usually best when it’s nearly invisible."
The Business of Fashion
In a Direct-to-Consumer Era, What’s the Point of Showrooms?
by Roxanne Robinson
Sales showrooms once existed solely to engage retail buyers. Now, they’re serving as yet another touchpoint with consumers.
TechCrunch
Amazon, now a physical retailer too, is granted an anti-showrooming patent
by Sarah Perez
Amazon was recently granted a patent that could be used to prevent brick-and-mortar retailers from leveraging technology in their stores that could stop shoppers from comparing prices of in-store products to those online.
Marketplace
Small-scale manufacturing is on the rise in American cities
by Dan Kraker
Factories are smaller and greener, and consumer tastes are changing.
WWD
Cult Brand Ader Error Expands Its Eccentric Message
by Misty White Sidell
The unisex brand, which sells through most of its collections, will begin global distribution, starting with a 10 Corso Como exhibit.
The Guardian
'I loved being part of that scene': 80s style tribes, then and now
by Deborah Willimott
Anita Corbin tracks down the punk, mod, rocker and skinhead girls she first photographed in the 1980s. Are they still rebelling?
Fashion Unfiltered
Why the New Style.com Was Doomed From the Start
by Brittany Adams and Amber Kallor
Honestly, how did no one see this catastrophe coming?
Quartz
It's time to stop hating on men in shorts
by Marc Bain
The garment is everywhere, including all over fashion runways, and even so, its detractors continue to turn up with regularity.
AnOther
Hubert de Givenchy on Audrey Hepburn and the Scent of Silk
by Hannah Tindle
The legendary designer speaks to AnOther about his life, career and relationships with famous clients.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
"Under Me Sleng Teng"
Wayne Smith
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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