Everything you see from me – whether it’s on the runway, in a look book or part of a campaign – was funded by me. I dare a Balenciaga or Gucci to come and create under my conditions and produce the quality of work I produce.
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Man. Fendi S/S 2018, Milan Men's Fashion Week, June 19, 2017.
(Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
Tuesday - June 20, 2017 Tue - 06/20/17
rantnrave:// For all the legacy the fashion industry has—haute couture, licensing, textile innovation—there are some exciting developments to watch outside traditional confines. LAWRENCE LENIHAN's op-ed for BOF, about how creator-led brands can fight back in a business environment that rewards exploiting others' ideas, is a must-read. I almost couldn't believe the synergy it has with this piece about African designers who are operating on their own terms outside the traditional fashion industry. What I love about Lenihan's piece is that it opens a realm of possibility for radical creative ideas to find a (fast) presence in the market and an alternative to ye ole "how things have always been done." Putting value back into the hands of creative talent is more than sound rhetorical reasoning—and this time, there's a business model to back it up. Check it out: RESONANCE... Musician RAURY signed on to walk the DOLCE & GABBANA runway, but the way he and his cadre of millennial models were presented with "boycott" shirts didn't sit well with the singer. His response? Protest the "protest." In this interview with GQ, he speaks truth to power so clearly it's hard to consider the outside context. Do we need to? MARK ANTHONY GREEN keeps a sense of humor and perspective on the situation, writing that "A millennial millennial'd and spoke his mind" at MILAN MEN'S FASHION WEEK. We could all use a sense of idealism from time to time... More from Milan: FENDI and TOM FORD... Some of the best advice I've heard for entrepreneurs and designers: know capital structures and the expectations that come with them, lest a hedge fund tell you to get into real estate. I'm kidding, but this is happening to HUDSON'S BAY... FLIPKART launched a private label... Listen to this fabric... The latest product line to roll off the KARDASHIAN mint... Is BANANA REPUBLIC a dark horse for handbags this season? Something may be afoot. SEAN SANTIAGO offers some incisive thinking (and his mum's cc) on a mass American retailer... These people... Eye-popping creations from BY WALID.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
origins
The Business of Fashion
Op-Ed | How Small Will Beat Big and Save the Fashion Industry
by Lawrence Lenihan
The status quo spells certain death for design-driven brands unless they tap new technologies and Economies of Small, argues Lawrence Lenihan.
High Snobiety
Africa Now: The New Diasporic Renaissance
by Stephanie Smith-Strickland
Young designers - even ones with strong ties abroad - are increasingly choosing to launch their labels on the African continent. We ask them why.
GQ
Singer Raury Explains Why He Protested Dolce & Gabbana from the Runway
by Mark Anthony Green
The Atlanta musician talks about his shirt-off statement, being detained by security, and millennial politics.
Drapers
'They told me I was crazy' -- Machine-A founder
by Graeme Moran
The founder and buying director of London designer indie Machine-A does things his own way.
Dazed Digital
Meet the artist behind some of Prada’s most iconic prints
by Daisy Woodward
Taiwanese-American artist James Jean opens up about his prints for Prada Resort 2018 - and his working relationship with Mrs P.
Quartz
Millennials are making it luxe to be more ethical and environmentally aware
by Marc Bain
The new words for "luxury": "organic," "sustainable," "fair-trade."
The Guardian
Revealed: the Romanian site where Louis Vuitton makes its Italian shoes
by Alexandra Lembke
All but the soles of the luxury brand’s footwear are made in Transylvania before being ‘finished’ in Italy and France.
The Fashion Law
Kering Mislabeling Chinese-Made Sunglasses as 'Made in Italy' Per New Lawsuit
Your “Made in Italy” sunglasses may not be quite as Italian as you think, at least not according to a strongly-worded new lawsuit filed against Kering, the parent company of Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Brioni, and Balenciaga.
Fashionista
Should We All Be Influencers? Online Marketing Platforms Are Making It Easier Than Ever
by Dhani Mau
Breaking down the potential good, bad and ugly of influencer marketing platforms, some of which anyone can join.
Tablet Magazine
The Garment District’s Bustling Past and Uncertain Future
by Jenna Weissman Joselit
Recently I found myself tootling around the streets that constitute New York’s storied Garment District, a six-block area between West 35th Street and West 41st Street, Broadway and Ninth Avenue. Actually, “tootling around” isn’t quite the right expression.
reify
The Business of Fashion
Mark Cross: The American Luxury Brand Revival That Almost Wasn’t
by Chantal Fernandez
How chief executive Neal J. Fox took a 165-year-old leather goods brand and turned it into a 21st century street style favourite by not being afraid to pivot - or take a gamble.
Fast Company
Bonobos Founder Andy Dunn Knows You Might Be Mad At Him For Joining Walmart
by Elizabeth Segran
Bonobos and Walmart have totally different values. Will Bonobos founder Andy Dunn be able to help change Walmart’s image? He’s not sure.
Bloomberg
Activist Land & Buildings Targets Saks Owner Hudson's Bay
by Scott Deveau
Urges board to sell real estate and explore a take-private deal.
Grailed
The Immaculate Precision of By Walid
by Jake Silbert
Walid al Damirji is a Swiss-born, British-Iraqi designer based in London who specializes in patchwork garments, with fabric sourced from vintage clothes.
Racked
Jeans, Motherhood, and the Myth of Sisyphus
by Emily Mohn-Slate
After the birth of my children, I feel like I live in somebody else’s body.
Vanity Fair
How Richard Avedon Redefined Beauty with 'Dovima with Elephants'--and What Happened Next
by Derek Blasberg
The Queens-born model Dovima became the template for high fashion in the 1950s, before her American Dream tale turned tragic.
GWARIZM
Half Off
by Gary Warnett
"The connection between hip-hop and shoes has been mined to mediocrity in pursuit of content and, like some cultural fossil fuel, all that seems to be left -- bar those untold stories and archives from those who were there -- is fumes."
Glossy
Blogger fashion lines are moving beyond their creators to thrive
by Jessica Schiffer
The market for fashion blogger-launched clothing collections has grown increasingly crowded in the last few years, and their ubiquity hasn't curbed their success. However, the once-whimsical, largely directionless offerings are on the heels of a makeover.
WWD
Kim Kardashian's Makeup Line Expected to Net $14.4M in Minutes
by Rachel Strugatz
Kardashian gives WWD the first-ever interview on her new beauty brand, KKW.
Fashionista
The Civil War-Era Costumes of Sofia Coppola's 'The Beguiled' Tell Their Own Story
by Fawnia Soo Hoo
"It told its own story," says costume designer and frequent Sofia Coppola collaborator, Stacey Battat.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
"NEVERALONE"
Raury
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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