I tend to feel nostalgic not just for an aesthetic, but for a concept of fashion and a structure that seems—I wasn’t there to experience it—but a period of time before fashion became hyper-commercialized, before it became like pop culture, essentially.
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Veruschka in rainforest of Paraíso, Vogue 1968.
(Franco Rubartelli/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Wednesday - June 21, 2017 Wed - 06/21/17
rantnrave:// AMAZON PRIME WARDROBE is coming for your closet. Like many of Amazon's experiments, the project is a beta led by a press release, so there's high possibility it could launch and rule your (Prime members') closet forever or be soft launched and then go away quietly, never to see the light of a soft launch again (ha). My initial reaction is that it's a savvy move, one that involves moving goods more freely around a logistics network already in place for members of Amazon Prime. It offers more value to Prime members, it pattern matches some buzzy businesses like STITCH FIX, and it takes some strain out of buying clothes from Amazon. Low risk stuff. But savvier. The incentive for customers to buy more is smart: the program offers a 10% discount for keeping three to four items and 20% off for five or more. Is it a revolutionary concept? Nah, but it's not "Day 2" either. Would love to see Amazon go for a well-conceived, well-executed Amazon Basics apparel line, but one step at a time. No matter what the future holds, the company has the luxury of experimentation at its disposal. So watch this space... Really have to applaud RACKED once again for some stellar longform work, this time on retail workers. Excellent reporting thrives, if one knows where to look. Here's a stat from the article for you: retail workers make up 10% of the American workforce. Will retail become part of a political narrative the way other sectors have? It made a segment on BILL MAHER... LUCIE and LUKE MEIER's runway debut as the creative directors of JIL SANDER will be met with keen anticipation this fall. The couple's first pre-collection for the label, women's resort and men's summer 2018, is out now. And don't miss this fantastic interview with Luke Meier on OAMC... CONDÉ NAST launches VOGUE POLAND... DONATELLA reflects on VERSACE men's S/S 2018... I've really been loving the label MAFALDA VON HESSEN, a partnership between von Hessen and veteran designer ERIC WRIGHT. Excited to see the label is showing in PARIS beginning June 23... A different kind of catalog.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
optimize assortment
Racked
America’s Massive Retail Workforce Is Tired of Being Ignored
by Sarah Jaffe
Long absent from discussions about employment, workers from Walmart to Bloomingdale’s are taking matters into their own hands.
Vogue
An Oral History of Susan Cianciolo’s Run Collections—and of a Long Lost 1990s New York
by Laird Borrelli-Persson
The story of 11 unforgettable Run collections and a lost New York, as told by Susan Cianciolo and her collaborators.
The New York Times
Miuccia Prada and Sylvia Fendi Grapple With the New World
by Guy Trebay
Addressing digital anxiety through sling-back sneakers and subtly colored jackets over shorts.
The Business of Fashion
What’s Next for Proenza Schouler?
by Lauren Sherman
With a new business strategy taking shape and a Paris runway debut only days away, Jack McCollough, Lazaro Hernandez and chief executive Judd Crane share their plans with BoF.
Vogue
Whatever Luke Meier Is Doing At OAMC, It’s Working
by Mark Holgate
"OAMC is things that feel authentic to us, but seen in a luxurious way," says Meier of the brand he launched in Paris in 2014.
South China Morning Post
Neapolitan tailors Isaia celebrate 60 years with new looks, book
by Abid Rahman
We talk to the president and CEO of the family-run business about the difference between tailoring in Naples and Milan, and his future plans for the label.
The New York Times
Amazon Will Let Customers Try On Clothes Before Buying
by Nick Wingfield
Amazon Wardrobe, part of the Prime service and part of the company’s effort to expand in apparel, will let customers order three to 15 items of clothing without buying it.
Loose Threads
Building Bulletproof Brands -- Part I: Why don't brands last like they used to?
by Richie Siegel
How does one build a brand that lasts for centuries? Today, in the consumer goods space-specifically in apparel, fashion, footwear, beauty, cosmetics, accessories, and furniture-it's an especially challenging quandary given the ferocious speed at which Amazon and fast fashion giants like Zara and H&M are growing, while other legacy physical goods brands are struggling.
WWD
Ermenegildo Zegna's Artistic Director Alessandro Sartorio Talks Putting On a Fashion Show
by Alessandro Sartorio
Sartorio talks design, preparation, and the runway presentation for Ermenegildo Zegna S/S 2018.
Racked
Outdoor Apparel for Women Is Finally Getting Good
by Jen A. Miller
Because making everything smaller and pink wasn't quite cutting it.
en suite
The Business of Fashion
Most Wanted in Milan: Originality
by Angelo Flaccavento
Milanese designers referenced Balenciaga, Raf Simons and Gosha Rubchinskiy a bit too much, but Fendi, Marni and Zegna stood out.
ADDRESS
Fashion from the Shadows... Second life
by Aicha Abbadi
Gathering common motivations that unite a broad range of practitioners, ‘Fashion from the Shadows’ -series aims to map alternative approaches to thinking, creating, presenting and discussing fashion. It provides an overview of recent developments in the discipline in order to integrate them into a new and more inclusive fashion system that encourages discussion.
Tank Magazine
Mad hatter: Leo Carlton
by Tamsin Blanchard
The young milliner Leo Carlton is giving a new relevance to hat design.
British Vogue
Hubert de Givenchy Talks Jackie, Audrey, And The Duke Of Windsor Counting His Cash
by Suzy Menkes
Hubert de Givenchy, tall, noble and impeccably tailored, is telling me a story about dressing the Duchess of Windsor, whose husband gave up the throne of England for the woman he loved. "The Duke didn't speak French - he spoke Spanish, German and, of course, English," the couturier remembers.
The Fashion Law
Reputation is a Business Asset, as Long as its Good
Fashion designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana drew applause for sending a pregnant model down the runway as part of their tribute to mothers for Fall/Winter 2015, but their endorsement of "traditional" families in a subsequent interview caused controversy and calls to boycott their label.
ELLE
Find the Buzzed-About Labels You Love at This NYC Retail Lab
by Alison S. Cohn
Dream of being dressed by your favorite It designer? This is where to find them.
Glossy
Moda Operandi is driving Instagram purchases through Amazon Pay
by Hilary Milnes
As Moda Operandi's traffic from social was increasing at a clip of 140 percent year over year, the company turned to Instagram to figure out how it could turn that interest into actual purchases.
Drapers
How one Chinese manufacturer stays ahead of sourcing
by Emily Sutherland
As Chinese export manufacturer the Dishang Group opens an all-singing, all-dancing new headquarters in Weihai, China, Drapers visits to find out how the business is adapting to the changes in sourcing.
BuzzFeed
There's A War Going On Behind Amazon's 'Add To Cart' Button
by Leticia Miranda
It's the holy grail for Amazon sellers -- and as more spending moves online, it gets more valuable by the day.
Chicago Tribune
Ulta on Chicago's Mag Mile: New look for store No. 999
by Lauren Zumbach
As Ulta continues adding stores, beauty retailer branches out into high-profile urban spots and smaller towns.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
"Shook Ones"
Mobb Deep
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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