Who knows? It’s only in the future you can know. | | Bill at work (erin m) | | | | “Who knows? It’s only in the future you can know.” |
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| rantnrave:// Street photography pioneer and fashion world fixture BILL CUNNINGHAM has passed away at 87. Tough to sum up what he meant to fashion, to journalism. He would probably say that it isn't worth trying, that he was just a guy going to work, taking some pictures, searching for something delightful. He is among the most important chroniclers of modern dress and his body of work is a tremendous gift to future fashion historians. He believed that to truly grasp a moment’s prevailing aesthetics you had to be at the fashion shows, at the parties, and out on the street, and no one saw more of all three. He was present at the first CHRISTIAN DIOR show in 1947. He witnessed the birth of ready-to-wear, YVES SAINT LAURENT’s entire career, the rise of hip-hop, captured first-hand the effects of globalization and climate change on personal style. He shot MARGIELA’s debut show and made sure the photos ran in DETAILS. At least one source claims he was the first to use the term "deconstructionist" in reference to fashion. He was also one of the industry's most beloved figures. He was kind, gentle, an egalitarian, fiercely committed to his work, which always felt celebratory. As DOREEN ST. FELIX puts it, "we see cultural anthropologists betray their subjects' humanity all the time and BILL CUNNINGHAM just never had to do that.” BILL’s work was a record of him listening rather than speaking. HINTON ALS writes that he made people "feel seen, which is one way to love someone.” To spread love in the pursuit of your passion -- what a marvellous way to spend a life. We could all learn something from BILL… Back in MARCH, THE GUARDIAN published a brief history of the bright blue workman’s jacket that BILL made -- and I don’t use this word lightly -- iconic… IDEA BOOKS is selling a grip of DETAILS back issues from the BILL CUNNINGHAM years… The latest REDEF FashionSET, "BILL CUNNINGHAM's Labor of Love," collects some of our favorite pieces on the man. | | - Adam Wray, curator |
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| Ten great reads -- and one essential documentary -- on the late Bill Cunningham, arguably one of the most important chroniclers of modern dress and certainly among fashion's most beloved figures. | |
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Designer Demna Gvasalia launched a fashion brand from his living room two years ago. His CEO brother, Guram, explains their unconventional path to success, their latest collaborations with companies like Reebok, Champion and Juicy Couture—and the $800 price tag of their sweatshirts. | |
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Inside Lululemon Labs, the cultish activewear brand's 11th New York City location that opened in March, there's not a single $100 yoga pant in sight. Instead, slimming pencil skirts, crisp blazers, and creased trousers-all in a distinctly N.Y.C. palette of black, white, navy, and gray-line the walls. | |
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Fashion may be the most rapidly changing and fluid cultural ideation that humans practice. The ontology of fashion may seem undeserving of our attention, but fashion reveals the cultural preoccupation with the body. As styles shift, so do the type of ideal body that occupies those clothing. | |
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Next Sunday, when Vetements holds its spring show in Paris - at the Galeries Lafayette department store - the cultish brand will have a little help from its friends. Eighteen different brands, ranging from Levi's and Hanes to Manolo Blahnik and Juicy Couture, will produce the entire Vetements collection. | |
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The popular sweater has a revolutionary history that includes Riot Grrrls and Coco Chanel. | |
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It's an unfair and brutal truth: "The more women talk, the more men turn off," says Nina McLemore. "One of the challenges for women is to learn to say fewer words in a lower voice." To be clear, McLemore doesn't condone this prejudice. | |
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LONDON -- Before Thelma Golden, chief curator of the Studio Museum in Harlem, met her future husband, the London-based designer Duro Olowu, she had been on a Barneys waiting list for one of his dresses for months. | |
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MILAN, Italy - In the last nine months, Europe - still the heartland of the luxury fashion industry - has been rocked by major terror attacks in both Paris and Brussels. | |
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"Social media is the worst thing that's ever happened to the beauty industry," says celebrity makeup artist Pati Dubroff. It's a strange thing to hear from someone who just received over a thousand Likes on a picture of her client Emilia Clarke's makeup. But speaking on the phone from California, Dubroff doesn't falter. | |
| LVMH flagship brand Louis Vuitton is celebrating the success of its second hackathon held last weekend in France. Louis Vuitton’s “Unlock Supply Chain” hackathon was in partnership with smart business platform Anaplan and BeMyApp at Ecole 42. | |
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The engagement seen by two major fashion labels shows the effectiveness of mobile games as a marketing platform. | |
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The state of footwear production was a hot topic at the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America 2016 Impact Executive Summit in Shenzhen, China last week. While China continues to be the lead sourcing hot spot for footwear production, Vietnam continues to rise in importance creating robust debates about the future of sourcing. | |
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Casualwear now occupies more space in local wardrobes, as luxury loses cultural clout, argues Jerry Clode. | |
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We use smartphone swipe technology to find a date on Tinder, so can we use it to find the perfect outfit as well? Tech firm Bijou Commerce believes so. Its platform enables fashion and beauty apps to offer single-image browsing - customers can swipe right if they like a product, and left if they don't. | |
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