People try to copy him and they can’t. Nobody can do a Penn picture because the picture was in his head. It’s the light, it’s the lens, it’s the angle, it’s the approach to it, all those factors—and the intellect—make a picture. | | | | Pride 48, Fifth Avenue, NYC, June 25, 2017.
(Timothy A. Clary/AFP/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “People try to copy him and they can’t. Nobody can do a Penn picture because the picture was in his head. It’s the light, it’s the lens, it’s the angle, it’s the approach to it, all those factors—and the intellect—make a picture.”
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| | rantnrave:// Today's top reads come by way of SHINOLA and AMERICAN APPAREL, companies that have traded on identities rooted in DETROIT and LOS ANGELES. The stories have radically different approaches, yet both tap similar impulses: labor and locality. Both concern companies—in fact and fiction—that draw inspiration from local communities. Both are inspired by local photographs of painted murals, storefronts, and shop signs. What happens next? This deep dive from DAPHNE HOWLAND takes a long, hard look at the history of American Apparel and DOV CHARNEY's next moves with his new company, LOS ANGELES APPAREL. The story goes against dominant media narratives about Charney and the role that scale, capital, and legal proceedings played in the rise and demise of American Apparel. Two thousand miles away, from Detroit: in a work infused with the power of speculative imagination, photographer CAMILO JOSÉ VERGARA proposes a different kind of SHINOLA, one that incorporates the rich visual legacy of Detroit's African American population. Both grapple with authenticity and whether or not companies can deliver it... GARETH PUGH designed costumes for a virtual opera, and there are plenty of implications for designing clothes and viewing runway shows in 3D. How far off or how close-at-hand these developments are is up for debate. Sure, VR has been heralded for quite some time, but I tried the HTC VIBE recently and it blew my mind how far VR has advanced. Not in the KEENAN FELDSPAR kinda way, but in the "this is me, viscerally immersed in fencing a skeleton" way. We're past the point where slideshows feel evocative. If I'm not watching a show in-person, video is great, but what if runway shows become immersive? Would it motivate people to purchase rather than smash the like/heart/fav button and move on?... STELLA MCCARTNEY was a guest on BBC RADIO's Desert Island Discs. Between songs she mentions that her label tracks environmental profit and loss... Marvels in millinery at ROYAL ASCOT... GQ STYLE's top 3 at PARIS MEN'S FASHION WEEK... Setting the turf for DIOR HOMME S/S 2018... Some more "what if?" scenarios (and funny): VETEMENTS micro-fictions. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | R / D |
| Photographer Camilo José Vergara has been returning to Detroit annually for 40 years. He documents the destruction and the ruins but he has also been recording the signs and murals of the city, the visual legacy of African American culture. Vergara proposes these images could be used to create an alternative to the luxury Shinola brand, a locally-produced range of goods inspired by Detroit's folk art. | | |
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 | Retail Dive |
| In the months after American Apparel was sold out of bankruptcy and its stores were shuttered worldwide, Charney spoke at length with Retail Dive about his complicated history, the road ahead - and everything in between. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| Dress codes have been much in the news recently, largely because of the way the burden of compliance seems to fall on women — whether it be requiring them to don heels instead of flats, not to wear leggings or simply to “dress like a woman” (remember that?). But last week, the tables were turned, and men suddenly found themselves in what they deemed a discriminatory situation. | | |
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 | The Business of Fashion |
| Beijing’s 'One Belt One Road' is a highly ambitious attempt to shake up the global economic order with major implications for the fashion industry. | | |
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 | Refinery29 |
| "A lot of people in the industry told me not to..." | | |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| On the last day of spring/summer 18 men's shows designers got grounded as Lanvin embraced the chaos, Paul Smith and Alexander McQueen became one with nature, and Kenzo looked to its roots. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| Seventeen new looks, from a stealth label called Random Identities, were designed by the former creative director of Yves Saint Laurent. | | |
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 | High Snobiety |
| In a fashion world that is increasingly overcrowded, dominating the conversation with memes has usurped subtlety in a scramble for people’s attention. | | |
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 | Racked |
| Because sex. (And also he judges you.) | | |
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 | HERO magazine |
| “[Turner Prize nominee Goshka Macuga] came through with an idea that sounded too good to turn down, basically trying to reframe the story of Antigona but setting it in outer space, in the future,” says designer Gareth Pugh about his latest project, a futuristic adaptation of Tommaso Traetta’s 1772 Baroque opera 'Antigona.' | | |
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 | 1 Granary |
| Goom Heo began her final collection with a risk. Having completed three years at Central Saint Martins as a womenswear designer on BA Print, she suddenly switched to men's. "I felt like I needed motivation, I just wanted to have fun and try something new," she explains. | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| The French "perfume publisher" launched his brand to give talented perfumers a space to create, but now he's concerned about all the niche brands being launched by people who don't know what they're doing. | | |
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 | Sourcing Journal Online |
| Department stores have been touting their transformation strategies, and our side-by-side comparison provides insights into which might prove most effective. | | |
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| Fashionista |
| Visionary writer and director Bong Joon-Ho's latest socially conscious film "Okja" opens with a delicious close-up of a white and gold stilettoed Tom Ford pump. Sure to excite film geeks and fashion nerds alike, the visually stunning movie, which debuts on Netflix (and in select theaters) on Wednesday, is a black comedy, family drama, thriller and horror show, all in one. | | |
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 | GQ |
| Tonight (Jun 26), Drake will hand the NBA Style Award to Russ, D-Wade, or Iman Shumpert. But whoever takes home the trophy won't be the biggest winner. | | |
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 | BBC Radio 4 |
| Stella McCartney, fashion designer, is interviewed by Kirsty Young for Desert Island Discs. | | |
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 | Vogue |
| Here's added impetus to get you to the Irving Penn show this weekend: This " Sunday at the Met" talk will feature Vogue 's Phyllis Posnick in conversation with writer Vince Aletti and the museum's photography curator Jeff L. Rosenheim. | | |
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 | Glossy |
| Farfetch CMO John Veichmanis: 'Data is the new marketer's currency.' | | |
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 | Cool Hunting |
| Exploring the masterful leather production of the acclaimed brand's new sneakers. | | |
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 | Esquire |
| Arthur Huang wants a sneaker packaging revolution. | | |
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 | YouTube |
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