Proust had his madeleine like I have a sportswear vest.
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Azzedine Alaïa's soft sculpture, Galleria Borghese, Rome, July 10, 2015.
(Gabriel Bouys/AFP/Getty Images)
Wednesday - June 28, 2017 Wed - 06/28/17
rantnrave:// GUY TREBAY's coverage of PARIS FASHION WEEK MEN's is a pleasure to read. In his latest piece, Trebay turns to the American sportswear influence visible across Paris runways. This isn't USA, the place—it's a spirit, an impulse, an ethos. This is America as a wandering notion—one that's evolved through the years of hip hop, pro sports, and all the sartorial stylings therein; one that lives on through media and the imagination. And it transcends international borders. Great read... Hold the (i)phone. AZZEDINE ALAÏA is showing a couture collection for the first time in six years, on July 5 in PARIS. The presentation will take place during the official haute couture schedule, so noted because Alaïa often shows outside "official" "schedules." This is fine. For all the delight he's brought to the world of fashion, Alaïa can run on whatever timescale he chooses. Call it Spring/Winter 20999 for all I care. I'm thrilled he's back on at couture. Exciting news... The late ALEXANDER MCQUEEN's SARABANDE FOUNDATION is giving designers financial support to pursue undergraduate and graduate degrees. Great to see a foundation taking an enlightened approach to promoting creativity. 1GRANARY is collaborating with Sarabande on a series of talks, which our readers in LONDON may want to check out... MARIO TESTINO drew from the massive RIJKSMUSEUM archives for this issue of VOGUE NETHERLANDS... OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE launched womenswear... What's in a name? Shoutout to THE FASHION LAW for promoting critical, sustained dialogue on legal issues that matter to the industry. In light of the news that surf brand O'NEILL is trying to flex on NYC-based designer THADDEUS O'NEIL, this piece brings together other cases where designer names have been met with legal barriers... This is not the "bro" you're unduly familiar with from American culture: it's PEARL BRO. And it's cultured pearls.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
savoir-faire
The New York Times
American Chic on the Runways of Paris
by Guy Trebay
Berluti, Comme des Garçons, Hermès, Junya Watanabe, Louis Vuitton and Valentino solve a fashion problem: dressing the 21st-century man.
Racked
NASA Doesn't Benefit From Your Cute Meatball Tee
by Jenn Morson
Why everyone from Coach to Topshop uses the NASA logo (because they can).
The Guardian
Net-a-Porter owner opens tech hub in London
by Sarah Butler
New building in White City shows increased commitment to IT, and the UK, after merger with Italy’s Yoox.
Racked
What Should a Therapist Wear?
by Juli Fraga
When your clothing is meant to help patients heal.
HERO magazine
Meet Marine Serre, the LVMH Prize winning designer mixing sports, politics and love
by Ivan Yaskey
An interview with Marine Serre, rising designer and winner of the LVMH Prize 2017.
1 Granary
Pushing excellence with Sarabande
by Aya Noël
In an exciting new collaboration, 1 Granary is hosting a series of talks at the Sarabande foundation. The perfect opportunity to take a look at the organisation and their practices.
The New York Times
Justin Trudeau's Sock Diplomacy
by Vanessa Friedman
The Canadian prime minister has brought a new tactic to the political playbook.
High Snobiety
Aitor Throup Talks Practical Design and G-Star Raw Research SS18
by Jian DeLeon
The British designer just debuted his third collection for G-Star Raw Research in Paris. We interview him about his modular concepts and making them real.
Wallpaper* Magazine
In black and white: a duet of exhibitions reveals two sides to Helmut Lang
by Charlotte Jansen
Something strange is happening at Sammlung Friedrichshof's galleries in Vienna and Zurndorf. Step inside and you'll find the space already occupied by some monochrome monsters, towering, imposing figures clad with shreds and scraps of fabrics, coated in thick, gloopy resin.
GQ Style
How Patagonia Became Fashion's Favorite Outdoor Brand
by Samuel Hine
By focusing on good design and environmental advocacy, Patagonia has struck a chord.
express
The Cut
How 'Wellness' Became an Epidemic
by Amy Larocca
Why are so many privileged people feeling so sick? Luckily, there’s no shortage of cures.
T Magazine
Paris Men's Fashion: Balenciaga, Comme des Garçons and More
by Alexander Fury
A photo diary of the men’s spring/summer 2018 collections.
BBC
China's 'Pearl Bro' making millions from live streaming
by Runze Yu
The massive market for online streaming in China has canny entrepreneurs flexing their mussels.
Very Good Light
Everything you ever wanted to know about cruelty-free beauty
by Bella Cacciatore
NARS created controversy when the beauty brand announced it would be testing its products on animals. Here's what you need to know.
Ivy Style
Inventing Informality: Clemente's 'Dress Casual: How College Students Redefined American Style'
by Pani M.
Here's a long-overdue look at Dierdre Clemente's book "Dress Casual," which credits -- or blames -- college students for the concept of informal clothing. It's a must for every serious student of the history of fashion and culture, and you can order it on Amazon here.
The Telegraph
The ladies choice: Officine Générale launches long-awaited womenswear collection
by Caroline Issa
"The past few seasons have seen many womenswear resort collections shown alongside the menswear shows making menswear unmissable. In Paris, I’ve been following the journey of Officine Générale from its first standing-only presentations held in and among beautiful Parisian monuments (a tiny gallery on Quai Voltaire, a Rive Gauche cloister) to full blown fashion shows."
Loose Threads
Building Bulletproof Brands -- Part II: Networks are the strongest moats for consumer goods brands
by Richie Siegel
Part II presents a new formula for building bulletproof consumer goods brands post-internet and showcases how Supreme, Glossier and Peloton are putting this new approach into action.
The Business of Fashion
Surfwear Brand O'Neill Seeks to Block Thaddeus O'Neil's Trademark
by Chantal Fernandez
Mass brand O'Neill, whose trademark is now owned by a European holding company, is escalating an ongoing legal dispute with the surf-inspired New York designer.
TechCrunch
Google fined $2.7BN for EU antitrust violations over shopping searches
by Natasha Lomas
The European Commission has fined Google €2.42 billion for antitrust violations pertaining to its Google's Shopping search comparison service - in what is widely considered the most significant antitrust ruling in Europe since the 2004 Microsoft decision. For some context on the size of the fine, Google's (Alphabet's) full year revenue for 2016 was almost $90BN.
Fashionista
Why Resale Site Thredup Is Opening Brick-and-Mortar Stores
by Dhani Mau
Online resale is still hot, but this OG company sees opportunities offline, too.
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