The reaction of creative people cannot be unconnected to the times—and fashion, which moves faster and more visibly than art, movies, or theater, is the quickest response medium of all.
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Veruschka sits in Monade, a Plexiglas chair designed by Gianfranco Fini for Ditta Zanotta. Vogue 1969.
(Franco Rubartelli/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Thursday - June 29, 2017 Thu - 06/29/17
rantnrave:// What happens when a concept is released into the world, resonates, goes viral, then reaches stratospheric pop-culture notoriety with one glaring omission: the authors' original intent? We all know what happened to PEPE, but one can't kill a word. And this one—normcore—is sanctioned by the OED. K-HOLE's EMILY SEGAL delivers a post-mortem on normcore and keeps a sense of humor about the warped uptake of the concept in media and advertising. It's a great primer for anyone who missed the original K-HOLE report. Plus, Segal shares some funny moments for the term, revisited through bad headlines, JERRY SEINFELD's tweet, and a CHROME extension that blocks the word. But for all the jokes, and there are many, the concept as it was first conceived is still percolating today. Take the PARIS MEN's runways as one example. Creative authorship is a whole other discussion, but I get the feeling fashion is reflecting some current state of culture here too... Was happy to see mention of ANNE HOLLANDER in this piece about a staple product release from ISSEY MIYAKE. It's a black mock turtleneck, similar in appearance (but not in cut) to one worn by the late STEVEN P. JOBS. TROY PATTERSON connects not just the look, but the habit, of dressing with austerity to moments in history. It's a way of dressing shared by monks and moguls alike... NICOLA FORMICHETTI keeps it real, talks getting into comment wars with people, then letting go... Some news: The location of the first SUPREME x LV pop-up will be steps away from BONDI BEACH in AUSTRALIA... NORDSTROM's latest in-store concept shop is modeled after computer hardware... Office space: FARFETCH is opening 25,000 square feet in LA... STATES OF UNDRESS goes to THAILAND... Detained CHINA LABOR WATCH activists have been released on bail.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
whitespace
Digial Bauhaus Summit
Digital Bauhaus Summit 2017: Emily Segal “Normcore: Past Present Future“
by Emily Segal
Emily Segal on normcore and its appropriation in media and advertising.
Bloomberg
Steve Jobs's Mock Turtleneck Gets a Second Life
by Troy Patterson
The techno-savvy monk’s uniform lives on.
Vogue
Aloha! A Bientôt! Vogue Editors React to Paris’s Spring 2018 Menswear Shows
by Sarah Mower, Luke Leitch, Amy Verner...
The reaction of creative people cannot be unconnected to the times-and fashion, which moves faster and more visibly than art, movies, or theater, is the quickest response medium of all.
T Magazine
48 Hours in Paris With Thom Browne
by Alexander Fury
Walking into Thom Browne’s Paris headquarters is a little like walking back in time — into a midcentury world filled with men in permanently pressed and fitted two-piece suits with heavy brogues and clip-on ties. The designer’s universe unfolds in shades of gray, like a 1950s television series with the contrast turned way down.
Grailed
Step Inside the Curated World of Idol Brooklyn
by Lawrence Schlossman
No shopping trip to the Five Boroughs is complete without swinging by Williamsburg's Idol Brooklyn. The tightly curated shop-where Human Made and Cav Empt seamlessly sit next to Rick Owens and Raf Simons-is a true destination for menswear fans of all types thanks to the fan's first perspective of the store's triumvirate of co-founders: Alex Kasavin, Daniel Franco, and Wei Du.
Racked
Axe Leaves Behind Its Legacy of Sexism by Tackling Toxic Masculinity
by Cheryl Wischhover
Old Axe guy would probably call new Axe guy a cuck.
The Atlantic
The Bespoke High Is the Future of Marijuana
by Mary HK Choi
A California company makes weed vaporizers to suit every mood-here’s what happened when I tried them.
The Fashion Law
Just How Successful Is Your Favorite Fashion Brand?
by TFL
Since most fashion brands are privately held companies exempt from required public disclosures of revenue and profitability, it is difficult - if not nearly impossible - to gauge which brands are thriving.
The Talks
Nicola Formichetti: 'There Will Be A Backlash'
by Nicola Formichetti
"I think that fashion is going to go more towards — I don’t want to say exclusive because that’s a horrible word — something more special."
The Business of Fashion
Designers Take Copyright Infringement Into Their Own Hands
by Chantal Fernandez
Designers are turning to social media, as well as legal action, in the fight against knockoffs.
slate
SSENSE
Navigating Real-ness with Rachel Chandler
by Zoma Crum-Tesfa
The Photographer and Casting Director on the Future of Faces.
Apparel
Former Apparel Trade Negotiator Testifies on Behalf of Fashion Industry at NAFTA Hearing
David Spooner, who negotiated the textile and apparel provisions of 10 U.S. Free Trade Agreements while at USTR, emphasized the need to maintain the current global value chains in the Western Hemisphere.
Die, Workwear!
South Korea's Emerging Menswear Scene
by Derek Guy
Globalization has been a double-edge sword for menswear. On the one hand, it’s wiped out many of the distinctive features that once made regional dress unique... At the same time, it’s allowed consumers to more easily tap into overseas markets (and, by the same token, for overseas companies to gain a broader audience). 
New Republic
Monocle's View From Nowhere
by Kyle Chayka
Can the global elite's favorite magazine survive in an age of populism?
Advertising Age
Why Retail Labs Are Toast
by Ana Andjelic
Modern retailerers start from the self-disruption premise -- if they don't constantly cannibalize their own business, someone else will.
The Associated Press
Making Ivanka Trump shoes: Long hours, low pay and abuse
by Erika Kinetz
A worker with blood dripping from his head marked a low point in the tense, grinding life at a southeastern China factory used by Ivanka Trump and other fashion brands. An angry manager had hit him with the sharp end of a high-heeled shoe.
The Glass Magazine
Glass speaks to Fabrizio Buonamassa -- watch design director at Bulgari
by Sara Hesikova
GLASS meets up with Fabrizio Buonamassa -- watch design director at Bulgari and finds out more about his career.
i-D Magazine
Women's History Museum is the Strange, Subversive Design Collective to Know
by Coco Romack
The gender-fluid group's fourth collection revolved around the theme of the doll.
Fashionista
The Tricky Work of Sourcing Ingredients for Natural Brands
by Beth Shapouri
One bad drought can mean big trouble.
Bloomberg TV
The David Rubenstein Show: Phil Knight
by David Rubenstein
"The David Rubenstein Show: Peer-to-Peer Conversations" explores successful leadership through the personal and professional choices of the most influential people in business. Renowned financier and philanthropist David Rubenstein travels the country talking to leaders to uncover their stories and their path to success.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"How Can I tell My Mom & Dad"
The Lovelites
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