A work of art doesn't exist outside the perception of the audience. | | DHL, one of Vetements' muses. (Deutsche Post) | | | | “A work of art doesn't exist outside the perception of the audience.” |
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| rantnrave:// Couture week kicked off in PARIS on SUNDAY with new work from VETEMENTS and a bevy of collaborators -- 17 of them to be exact, each approached for their specific field of expertise. LEVI'S for denim, BRIONI for tailoring, MANOLO BLAHNIK for shoes, and JUICY COUTURE for velour catsuits, to name a few. Now, VETEMENTS is not a couture label, and this is not a couture collection. Rather, this is a Spring 2017 collection, presented about three months earlier than usual during a special guest slot on the couture calendar. VETEMENTS wants its collections delivered earlier in the year to better align with weather patterns -- i.e., spring/summer clothing arriving in stores at the beginning of spring -- and to maximize their time on shelves. The CHAMBRE SYNDICALE, couture's governing body, rightly recognizes VETEMENTS as the coolest kid at the party and wants a piece of that action. Win-win. Likely we'll see more brands adopting some version of VETEMENTS' calendar -- look out for a few more disjointed seasons before things settle into a new routine. As for the clothes, they were what we've come to expect from VETEMENTS, just as CEO GURAM GVASALIA suggested they would be: exaggerated, engulfing proportions, kitschy corporate imagery, unconventional cuts, and much-maligned fabrics. Hip-high boots appeared throughout and made for particularly interesting silhouettes, throwing off a grunge mermaid vibe. Given the collaborative nature of this collection, it'll be interesting to see how it's brought to market and at what price point. Will VETEMENTS take advantage of REEBOK's supply chain and know-how to produce something affordable? Will it stay prohibitively pricey across the board? Bit of both? Think on it while you're watching the whole show... BARACK OBAMA and RAHM EMANUEL once fantasized about moving to HAWAII and opening a t-shirt stand that would sell only plain, white, size medium shirts... THE FADER dug up a selection of classic streetwear ads from as far back as 1999... Plus ça change... | | - Adam Wray, curator |
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"The embrace of the industry is quite incredible, for where we've come from and how long we exist," Mr. Gvasalia said. The line is carried in more than 200 stores worldwide, and Guram Gvasalia, 30, Demna's brother and Vetements's chief executive, cites sales in the eight figures. | |
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