I am a foreigner and I intend to stay a foreigner, because foreigners see Paris and France through a different eye. And when you are not French, you look without nationalism or patriotism. Long live Paris.
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Proud return. Naomi Campbell wears the final look at Azzedine Alaïa Couture Fall 2017, July 5, 2017.
(Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/French Select/Getty Images)
Thursday - July 06, 2017 Thu - 07/06/17
rantnrave:// Let us all thank the subsidies that support haute couture. Supported by endorsements, licensed goods, handbags, fragrance, keychains, et. al, let's step back and celebrate the plain fact that this kind of artistry and craft is still possible. Sell that branded fragrance if necessary. There's a lushness to the shows this season. VALENTINO was lush, moody. Just beautiful. I'd been sensing something with the rich colors from PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI's collections for resort and men's. Fitting that it came into focus at the ultimate showcase of fashion: haute couture... More highlights at FENDI and MAISON MARGIELA... AZZEDINE ALAÏA returned to couture with a wink and a smile, and NAOMI CAMPBELL opened and closed the show. WWD's KATYA FOREMAN says six years (since Alaïa's last show at couture) was worth the wait, and I have to agree. Commitment to craft, uncompromising design, clothes as sensorial experience—all of these things make Alaïa so respected in the industry... Shoutout to ELIZA BROOKE for this piece on the aspirational concept and SEO goldmine that are the words "French" and "girl" smashed together. Happily, Brooke goes deeper into the French girl mythos, exploring the concept across marketing, celebrity, culture, and class... Accessible is a relative term, and when applied to "luxury" in today's market, it becomes even less distinct. This look at "accessible luxury" is another great one from RACKED... Briefs: the most discounted brands on resale sites... DOVER STREET MARKET is opening in LA... Testing the limits of who can wait in line the longest: LV x SUPREME pops up in NORTH AMERICA... When the math doesn't add up... Here's a long scroll for you: a running list of fashion weeks in the USA.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
arrondissement
The New York Times
Armani and Margiela, and Female Strength
by Vanessa Friedman
What does it look like? This couture week, the answers varied.
Die, Workwear!
How to Design Clothes
by Derek Guy
A couple of years ago, Wall Street Journal’s style editor Jacob Gallagher described the Italian menswear line Eidos as “something that only looks good on men who are as handsome as the brand’s designer, Antonio Ciongoli.” I admit, up until then, I had been thinking the same thing. 
Quartz
The international effort to fix Bangladesh’s deadly factories has a basic math problem
by Marc Bain
Making an entire industry safe is expensive, but H&M, Zara, and others go to Bangladesh for its low prices.
Racked
How to Sell a Billion-Dollar Myth Like a French Girl
by Eliza Brooke
The origins and consequences of everyone’s favorite Parisian fantasy.
Vice
Where's the Line Between Trans Visibility and Media Sensationalism?
by Eric Sasson
The July cover of 'Glamour Spain' features model Andreja Pejic without reference to her gender identity. Is that progress?
INDIE Magazine
'Gender is Overrated': The Boundary Pushing World of Palomo Spain
by Trisha Balster
Redefining fashion's current ideas of masculinity and sexuality, this Palomo Spain interview depicts Alejandro Gómez Palomo's progressive take on menswear.
T Magazine
48 Hours in Paris with Proenza Schouler
by Alexander Fury
The designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez transplanted their New York team to present their spring/summer 2018 collection during couture week.
The New York Times
The Rebirth of Paul Poiret
by Astrid Wendlandt
South Korean money and a Sino-Parisian designer’s skill are combined to revive the historic French fashion name. But will that be enough for success?
Racked
The Perennially Difficult Paradox of Accessible Luxury
by Mallory Schlossberg
Accessible luxury is a fine line - and companies that have ridden it for years are struggling.
Bloomberg
Here's a CEO Who Was Happy to Lose His Job
by Stephanie Baker and Robert Williams
Christopher Bailey is out as Burberry's boss, but he’s still the label’s top designer-and he couldn’t be happier.
nouvelle
The Globe and Mail
The ‘Flying Leap’: A sneaker with history breaks the mould on failed Chinese branding
by Nathan Vanderklippe
The world’s second-largest economy has often struggled to gain prestige abroad. That looks as if it could finally change with names such as Feiyue, a Shanghai shoe brand that went from humble beginnings to global success.
The New York Times
Ramdane Touhami’s New French Empire
by Dana Thomas
Reimagining a fragrance label from the early 1800s has been just the first step in what the energetic entrepreneur sees as a new global luxury brand.
British Vogue
#SuzyCouture: Macron Mania! A Mighty Stir-up In Paris Fashion
by Suzy Menkes
When couture is not quite couture: Rodarte, Proenza Shouler, Hermès and Maticevski.
1 Granary
New Waves: Sheryn Akiki
by Grace Ahn
The emotional and conceptual collection of CSM BA Fashion graduate Sheryn Akiki explores propaganda at times of political theatre.
Dazed Digital
Iris van Herpen on a decade of fusing fashion and art
by Emma Hope Allwood
Following the AW17 Couture show - featuring musicians playing underwater - we spoke to the Dutch designer as she celebrates her tenth anniversary
BuzzFeed
Zara And H&M; Petitioned By 129,000 People After Report Claims Brands Are Linked To 'Water Pollution'
by Sara Spary
A report by the Changing Markets Foundation claimed that factories in Asia supplying some of the UK's biggest brands were linked to "devastating air and water pollution."
Jing Daily
Can Swiss Designers Gain Traction in the China Market?
by Sun Yuanqing
As more Chinese consumers travel to Switzerland, Swiss fashion brands are getting noticed. But they are finding out it's tough to take it to the next level.
The Fashion Law
The Evolving Runway Timetable: What Season is it Anyway?
by TFL
U.S. ready-to-wear brands Proenza Schouler and Rodarte switched from their regular New York Fashion Week slots to open Paris couture week this weekend, signifying their desire to further build the prestige of their respective brands, as well as the rapidly changing organizational model of global fashion, which is evolving to meet the industry’s changing needs.
Glossy
Plus-size menswear market struggles to gain momentum
by Bethany Biron
Though the women’s plus-size market has continued to make strides over the past year — sales rose by 6 percent in 2016, up to $21.4 billion — the men’s plus-size industry remains stifled.
Vogue
Shaping Fashion: Vogue’s Hamish Bowles Explores a Buzzed-About Balenciaga Exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum
by Hamish Bowles
“Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion” at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum (through February) draws largely on the museum’s own impressive holdings of the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga, the Spanish-born designer who worked his way up from tailor’s apprentice to renowned couturier—first in his native country and then, as Spain was strafed by a devastating civil war, in Paris in 1936, at the age of 41. 
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Impossible Island"
Gaussian Curve
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