I am a foreigner and I intend to stay a foreigner, because foreigners see Paris and France through a different eye. And when you are not French, you look without nationalism or patriotism. Long live Paris. | | Proud return. Naomi Campbell wears the final look at Azzedine Alaïa Couture Fall 2017, July 5, 2017. (Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/French Select/Getty Images) | | | | “I am a foreigner and I intend to stay a foreigner, because foreigners see Paris and France through a different eye. And when you are not French, you look without nationalism or patriotism. Long live Paris.” |
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| rantnrave:// Let us all thank the subsidies that support haute couture. Supported by endorsements, licensed goods, handbags, fragrance, keychains, et. al, let's step back and celebrate the plain fact that this kind of artistry and craft is still possible. Sell that branded fragrance if necessary. There's a lushness to the shows this season. VALENTINO was lush, moody. Just beautiful. I'd been sensing something with the rich colors from PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI's collections for resort and men's. Fitting that it came into focus at the ultimate showcase of fashion: haute couture... More highlights at FENDI and MAISON MARGIELA... AZZEDINE ALAÏA returned to couture with a wink and a smile, and NAOMI CAMPBELL opened and closed the show. WWD's KATYA FOREMAN says six years (since Alaïa's last show at couture) was worth the wait, and I have to agree. Commitment to craft, uncompromising design, clothes as sensorial experience—all of these things make Alaïa so respected in the industry... Shoutout to ELIZA BROOKE for this piece on the aspirational concept and SEO goldmine that are the words "French" and "girl" smashed together. Happily, Brooke goes deeper into the French girl mythos, exploring the concept across marketing, celebrity, culture, and class... Accessible is a relative term, and when applied to "luxury" in today's market, it becomes even less distinct. This look at "accessible luxury" is another great one from RACKED... Briefs: the most discounted brands on resale sites... DOVER STREET MARKET is opening in LA... Testing the limits of who can wait in line the longest: LV x SUPREME pops up in NORTH AMERICA... When the math doesn't add up... Here's a long scroll for you: a running list of fashion weeks in the USA. | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| | The New York Times |
What does it look like? This couture week, the answers varied. | |
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| Die, Workwear! |
A couple of years ago, Wall Street Journal’s style editor Jacob Gallagher described the Italian menswear line Eidos as “something that only looks good on men who are as handsome as the brand’s designer, Antonio Ciongoli.” I admit, up until then, I had been thinking the same thing. | |
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| Quartz |
Making an entire industry safe is expensive, but H&M, Zara, and others go to Bangladesh for its low prices. | |
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| Racked |
The origins and consequences of everyone’s favorite Parisian fantasy. | |
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| Vice |
The July cover of 'Glamour Spain' features model Andreja Pejic without reference to her gender identity. Is that progress? | |
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| INDIE Magazine |
Redefining fashion's current ideas of masculinity and sexuality, this Palomo Spain interview depicts Alejandro Gómez Palomo's progressive take on menswear. | |
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| T Magazine |
The designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez transplanted their New York team to present their spring/summer 2018 collection during couture week. | |
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| The New York Times |
South Korean money and a Sino-Parisian designer’s skill are combined to revive the historic French fashion name. But will that be enough for success? | |
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| Racked |
Accessible luxury is a fine line - and companies that have ridden it for years are struggling. | |
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| Bloomberg |
Christopher Bailey is out as Burberry's boss, but he’s still the label’s top designer-and he couldn’t be happier. | |
| | The Globe and Mail |
The world’s second-largest economy has often struggled to gain prestige abroad. That looks as if it could finally change with names such as Feiyue, a Shanghai shoe brand that went from humble beginnings to global success. | |
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| The New York Times |
Reimagining a fragrance label from the early 1800s has been just the first step in what the energetic entrepreneur sees as a new global luxury brand. | |
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| British Vogue |
When couture is not quite couture: Rodarte, Proenza Shouler, Hermès and Maticevski. | |
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| 1 Granary |
The emotional and conceptual collection of CSM BA Fashion graduate Sheryn Akiki explores propaganda at times of political theatre. | |
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| Dazed Digital |
Following the AW17 Couture show - featuring musicians playing underwater - we spoke to the Dutch designer as she celebrates her tenth anniversary | |
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| BuzzFeed |
A report by the Changing Markets Foundation claimed that factories in Asia supplying some of the UK's biggest brands were linked to "devastating air and water pollution." | |
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| Jing Daily |
As more Chinese consumers travel to Switzerland, Swiss fashion brands are getting noticed. But they are finding out it's tough to take it to the next level. | |
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| The Fashion Law |
U.S. ready-to-wear brands Proenza Schouler and Rodarte switched from their regular New York Fashion Week slots to open Paris couture week this weekend, signifying their desire to further build the prestige of their respective brands, as well as the rapidly changing organizational model of global fashion, which is evolving to meet the industry’s changing needs. | |
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| Glossy |
Though the women’s plus-size market has continued to make strides over the past year — sales rose by 6 percent in 2016, up to $21.4 billion — the men’s plus-size industry remains stifled. | |
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| Vogue |
“Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion” at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum (through February) draws largely on the museum’s own impressive holdings of the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga, the Spanish-born designer who worked his way up from tailor’s apprentice to renowned couturier—first in his native country and then, as Spain was strafed by a devastating civil war, in Paris in 1936, at the age of 41. | |
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