To me luxury is being able to get up and wear what I want everyday. To me luxury is being able to leave work at a certain hour, to spend more time with my family on the weekends. Those things are luxury. I feel like the only luxury that there really is, is time. | | | | Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakesh, Vogue 1980.
(Horst P. Horst/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | | | “To me luxury is being able to get up and wear what I want everyday. To me luxury is being able to leave work at a certain hour, to spend more time with my family on the weekends. Those things are luxury. I feel like the only luxury that there really is, is time.”
|
| |
| | rantnrave:// Haute couture has concluded for Fall 2017. As I've said before, there was a lushness to the shows, and it's good to see a fashion organization like the CHAMBRE SYNDICALE own its place in the world. Call it disruption or opportunity, change can be for the better, and it seems the institutions that organize and fund haute couture are up to the challenge. We've brought together essential coverage of couture week, including the debuts of American guest designers and the return of AZZEDINE ALAÏA. FashionSET, Couture Week: Fall 2017... BOUCHRA JARRAR is exiting LANVIN after sixteen months, having shown only two collections at the label. Jarrar took on the creative director role facing some steep challenges, not least of which was the long shadow of beloved designer ALBER ELBAZ and the public blowout over his departure. That, along with budget cuts and a seemingly conservative working environment don't bode well for anyone tasked with righting the ship. Do creative directors have support groups? Because that would be the most interesting SLACK channel ever... But back to Lanvin, the label should take a risk, because the conservative moves aren't working. Somehow, I don't think an "external audit" is the answer to getting the label into turnaround mode. There's an incredible amount of heritage to work with at a house like Lanvin... ALEXANDER FREELING's essay "On Buttonholes" is about so much more: production by hand and machine, social signals in sartorial details, the repetition of honed craft, and a personal journey through learning to stitch one's own. Great read... In brief: An upcoming exhibition on photographer LOUISE DAHL-WOLFE... From the world of GUCCI, Chinese customers can now shop the label online. Gucci president and CEO MARCO BIZZARRI is named Chevalier of the Ordre National de la Légion d’Honneur, which was established by one NAPOLÉON BONAPARTE in 1802. Wonder if Napoléon would have enjoyed INSTAGRAM... QVC and HSN merge... DANIELLE STEELE has been attending haute couture shows for decades. Love her blog dispatches. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
|
|
| Three extraordinary couture shows, from Valentino, Fendi and Azzedine Alaïa, reassert the value of what you don’t see. | | |
|
| Vice is not what it used to be. Tom Wolfe’s 1966 essay on the subtle marks of bespoke tailoring, and the furtive satisfaction they grant to a select group of men, focuses above all on functional buttonholes. They are, for Wolfe, one of those “marginal differentiations” detectable only by a small elect; they are a sign of distinction but also obsession, an indulgence that is delightful and shameful by turns: working buttonholes are “The Secret Vice.” | | |
|
| The classic American wardrobe may be different than before - and a lot harder to pin down, too. | | |
|
| Buoyed by inbound talent and newfound economic confidence, Paris is emerging as the centre stage of an increasingly fragmented industry. | | |
|
| Brands often ferry fashion writers to far-flung shows, but few reviews note the arrangement - even though government guidelines require it. | | |
|
| From Bodymap and Taboo to BoomBox and Gareth Pugh, London fashion has always been passionately intertwined with nightlife. | | |
|
| Last week, Artémis, the mega holding company of the Pinault family, announced that it has acquired a minority stake in Giambattista Valli. But why didn’t Kering just make the investment itself? | | |
|
| How the creative director breathed new life into a famed fashion house. | | |
|
| Haute couture got a contemporary injection of relevance on the last day of fall/winter 17 shows in Paris as Maison Margiela, Fendi, and Valentino redefined glamour. | | |
|
| Upstart designers are under pressure to produce more, better, faster — but often lack the necessary support to help them do so. For our latest installment of Confessions, in which we grant anonymity for honesty, we spoke to an independent designer about the challenges of making it in a fast-paced industry that has an uncertain future, questionable values and a discouraging success rate. | | |
|
| Our clothing and laundry are polluting the marine environment, UK research reveals. | | |
|
| The retail giant never expected for its Fourth-of-July line to become as tied to Americana as it is now, 23 years later. | | |
|
| How do you dress to go on stage - and on Netflix? | | |
|
| Stores that shrink or close under pressure from e-commerce will create opportunities for reshaping the American landscape. | | |
|
| Shoppers with money to blow and time to kill are enjoying luxury shopping at international airports like Heathrow, where a new personal shopping service launched, attracting fashionistas and celebrities. | | |
|
| The luxury brand’s three-year experiment at blending the two sides failed. Christopher Bailey is quitting his role as CEO to focus on designing. | | |
|
| Walmart is doing transformational innovation while Amazon is innovating in an adjacency with less potential for future. | | |
|
| It’s become an all too common narrative within the luxury industry. A struggling fashion house hires a high-profile designer, who is then burdened with pressure to turn business around, more or less immediately. When that fails materialize over the course of two or three seasons, the creative director leaves the company. | | |
|
| This year has been a bumper year for the quality and quantity of beautifully curated fashion exhibitions. | | |
|
| The web site Vestoj has decided to amend the article, which made waves with Chambers’ frank view of her decades in fashion. | | |
|
| © Copyright 2017, The REDEF Group |
|
|
