The rapid development of the fashion industry in China is certainly true, but the 'market' and 'opportunity' isn't everything, especially for those of us who left our country at a young age.
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Looks. Outside HERA Seoul Fashion Week, April 1, 2017.
(Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)
Wednesday - July 19, 2017 Wed - 07/19/17
rantnrave:// Once you go down the rabbithole of style tribes in 2017, a universe of designers, collections, routes of distribution, independent sellers, and yes, desirable, sometimes one-of-a-kind merch opens up. This is deep. Devotional. Enthusiast. You may want to get a fair-trade, organic, ethically sourced paper bag to breathe into about now, because JOHN MAYER is one such devotee. This isn't exactly news (his style transformation has been well-documented) but reading Mayer's own take on his love for clothes is fascinating. SAM HINES' interview with Mayer covers every hype-inducing fashion/streetwear superlative out there. And it's good. Mayer is an A1 fashion enthusiast, he's tapped in to streetwear networks, and thus—he has a lot to say about collaboration, creativity, and the culture of clothes. Or at least, as much as anyone else who's in on it. Mayer talks about his own journey to becoming an enthusiast and says access is open to anyone with the internet (and a wallet). And it's one of the myriad ways traditional models have been left behind. What does this mean? It doesn't mean large-scale brands need to chase small, independent creators in a bid for authenticity. It doesn't mean everyone needs to become a content farm. But it does mean people should experiment. For anyone that runs an independent label or retail operation, say, on INSTAGRAM, you never know who might be tapping the feed. Could be your cousin who's in high school, a department store buyer, influencers of the mega and micro order, (a thousand) bots, or it could be—it just might be—Jawn Mayer... I was moved by the short film CHINA HEART, which tells the stories of design students who move to the UK from China to chase their fashion dreams at CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS. Faced with revised immigration policies, the dreams change. Highly recommend. Looking forward to seeing director GEORGINA YI WAN's future projects... More on UK politics and fashion: this piece on logo-flipping among JEREMY CORBYN supporters (and beyond) is a great read... Who's bidding for JIMMY CHOO?... While still involved with the CFDA/VOGUE FASHION FUND, ANNA WINTOUR will not be on the judging panel this year... Peep J.W. ANDERSON's collection for UNIQLO.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
glenurquhart check
i-D Magazine
what do britain's new immigration policies mean for fashion graduates?
by James Anderson and Georgina Yi Wan
A new film reveals the UK’s failure to retain young international fashion talent.
GQ Style
John Mayer Talks Supreme, Louis Vuitton, Off-White, and How to Start a T-Shirt Brand
by Samuel Hine
The singer-songwriter goes deep in his most extensive interview about fashion to date.
SSENSE
Logo-flipping and Campaigning in Britain's General Election and Beyond
by Calum Gordon
Exploring the influence of streetwear and logo-flipping on the British Election and politics in general.
Paper
Meet the Siblings Behind Smokewear Street Style Brand Sundae School
by Sydney Gore
Dae and Cindy Lim are updating stoner chic.
Marie Claire
Miroslava Duma on the Biggest Sustainability Problems Facing the Fashion Industry
by Nina Garcia
The guest editor for our first-ever sustainability issue sits down for a candid chat with Nina Garcia.
The Business of Fashion
Theory 2.0, Andrew Rosen’s Millennial Experiment
by Lauren Sherman
The founder and chief executive of Theory has convened a SWAT team of rising stars to secure the future of the label. BoF unpacks the strategy.
Fashionista
Are Alternative Modeling Agencies Really Helping to Create a More Diverse Fashion Industry?
by AnnaMarie Houlis
Burgeoning agencies are reclaiming individuality in an industry that too often promotes a singular and subjective notion of what it means to be "beautiful," but are more agencies that section models off othering our individuality in their attempt to promote it?
The Outline
How a big dog became a symbol for white, male America
by Alex Ronan
The strange origin, stranger success, of Big Dogs Sportswear.
Racked
How a Criminologist Boutique Owner Catches Shoplifters
by Chavie Lieber
This San Francisco shop owner runs her own sting operations.
TechCrunch
Amazon launches Spark, a shoppable feed of stories and photos aimed at Prime members
by Sarah Perez
Amazon today (Jul 18) is launching Amazon Spark, a new feature aimed at improving product discovery, which is seemingly inspired by Instagram and its use of shoppable photos. Similarly, Amazon Spark users are encouraged to post stories, ideas and images of products they love, which others can react to with comments and "smiles" -- Amazon's own version of the Like or Favorite button.
tartan
The Business of Fashion
Rethinking New York Fashion Week
by Eugene Rabkin
Facing an exodus of top labels like Thom Browne, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and Altuzarra, New York Fashion Week needs to change on several levels, argues Eugene Rabkin.
1 Granary
A visit to the CSM jewellery workshop
What's really happening in those busy studios on the second floor?
Dazed Digital
Inside the online communities making beautiful Black Sims
by Charlie Brinkhurst-Cuff
We speak to the black simmers on Facebook and Tumblr who have turned their frustration over lack of diversity in the game into custom-made characters with attitude.
Office Magazine
Get Creative like Cakeboy
by Anna Zanes
Driving force behind the vividly visual queer zine breaks out of the Instagram grid.
The Fashion Law
Not All 'Parodies' Are Created Equal. So, What About Titleist v. Titties?
While Demna Gvaslia and Vetements’ legal team (or lack thereof) may have gotten a laugh out of those Vetememes rain coats, so-called parodies do not usually end so well for the so-called parodists.
CNBC
'As retail goes, so goes America,' VP Pence tells a room full of retailers
by Lauren Thomas
"This president is going to ... pass the largest tax cuts since the days of Ronald Reagan," Pence said.
JSTOR Daily
This Short-Lived Political Party Embraced Socks With Sandals
by Erin Blakemore
The Men’s Dress Reform Party (MDRP) called for liberation from dark, tightly-knit textiles...and had some ties to the eugenics movement.
Glossy
Why high-end retailers are opening branded hotels
by Bethany Biron
Brands wading into hospitality isn't a new phenomenon. However, over the past year, there has been an influx of retailers opening hotels in order to transform into full-fledged lifestyle brands. Fashion companies including Bulgari, Armani and Camper have all launched hotels in previous years, and now companies in the home goods space are following suit.
South China Morning Post
Online fashion retailer Grana takes aim at mainland China
by Zen Soo
Online fashion retailer Grana will focus on the mainland market following US$10 million series A funding from the Alibaba Entrepreneurs Fund in October.
Glamcult
Maison the Faux turns fashion's despair on its head
by Rebecca Nevins
A talk with the Dutch fashion house.
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@JasonHirschhorn


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