I dress like I’m in a video game. I put together outfits inspired by Dudley from Street Fighter IV.
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Into the blue. Model (left) wears Issey Miyake and Iman wears Castelbajac, Vogue 1977.
(Kourken Pakchanian/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Thursday - July 20, 2017 Thu - 07/20/17
rantnrave:// I've always felt the textile industry is supremely undervalued. I'll never forget the moment when a professor asked us to think about when we're in touch (literally) with fabric on any given day. Sheets, towels, clothes, curtains, auto upholstery, the world is covered and draped in woven textiles. It's the foundation of fashion. Yet textiles are incredibly complex, and some of the literature out there reaches a level of nerd that's bulletproof to the casual observer. So here we are. Some have said textiles are undervalued because of their existence in the domestic sphere, their association with feminine work. It's an idea that fashion has largely moved past, but like all outmoded notions, sometimes it rears itself in indirect ways—the subtle biases and inflections that we know all too well. The market for synthetic textiles was a gargantuan business innovation, the implications of which we're still dealing with today. Long after the blouse falls apart, the fabric remains. And remains, and remains. There's been fascination with ingredients in everything—from food to electronics to clothes—which is bringing fabric back to people's minds. Think long-term about it... ALESSANDRO MICHELE is featured in HARPER'S BAZAAR's August issue, and the designer clearly understands twenty-first century culture. He's faced the ambivalence that comes with it, along with roaring sales. I still think he has a lot to say, despite some murmurs that oh, he's doing the GUCCI thing again. The Gucci universe is expanding to encompass your home, your travels (new app), and your nose (new fragrance). Saturation is an ever-present concern for fashion, particularly for luxury behemoths. It all falls to execution, and there are some true Gucci believers out there... Shoutout to CHERYL WISCHHOVER for pointing out that no-brand is still a brand... And shoutout to CAM WOLF for this funny but real take on "Made in AMERICA" week. We need a metric called "as claimed"... ICYMI: H&M is slowing down—with reporting sales data... OFF WHITE and WARBY PARKER are brand mashing... YEEZY is likely staying put in NYC... Is this JET or HERMÈS? Amount saved: 0.03 USD.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
made it
Die, Workwear!
The Great Retail Apocalypse
by Derek Guy
"The changes are scary, and they remind me of an interview I once did with Allan Gilchrist, a manager at William Lockie. As many people know, the Scottish knitwear business has been dying for decades. Where you used to have hundreds of companies involved in the trade – from the spinning of yarn to the knitting of sweaters – there are all but a handful of surviving firms now (William Lockie being the best of them)."
Harper's Bazaar
Inside Gucci's Urban Garden
by Belinda McKeon
Fashion alchemist Alessandro Michele brings his whimsical take on luxury to the fragrance counter--and Times Square.
GQ
Trump’s Made in America Week Shows Us Why Nothing Is Made in America Anymore
by Cam Wolf
Unless, of course, you're making fancy cowboy hats.
Racked
Meet the New No-Brand Brands Selling $3 Shampoo
by Cheryl Wischhover
A crop of beauty and personal-care non-brands offer inexpensive products without the marketing markup.
The New York Times
How to Dress Down Like a Power Player
by Vanessa Friedman
Keeping it casual in Sun Valley.
High Snobiety
RETRO READ: colette Co-Founder Sarah Andelman Talks Paris, Global Culture & Her Brand Turning 20
by Pete Williams
We caught up with Sarah Andelman, colette co-founder who discussed the origins of the shop and her take on the global culture at large.
SSENSE
Expect More Everything from Luka Sabbat
by Adam Wray
Luka Sabbat talks video game fashion and his design aspirations.
Racked
Polo Shirts Are My Secret Weapon
by Melissa Blake
They proved that style wasn’t incompatible with my disability after all.
JSTOR Daily
Synthetic Fabrics Inspired a Cultural Revolution
by Amanda Woytus
The advent of synthetic fabrics played a surprising role in bringing women into the workforce, as Mercury 13 trainee Geraldine Sloan’s story illustrates.
Glossy
'We're at the onset of an industrial revolution': The rise of robotics in retail
by Hilary Milnes
Robotics-integrated technology has the power to topple the existing retail supply chain, thanks to a shift to automation at every point in the production cycle. While mass adoption has yet to take off, the implications include increased speed to market and a localization of the manufacturing industry.
fix it
Sourcing Journal Online
Tesco Pledges to Detox its F&F Garment Supply Chain
by Genevieve Scarano
On Tuesday, U.K.-based retailer Tesco publicly pledged to detox its F&F garment supply chain and release a list of its suppliers.
Fashionista
Meet Shop Shops, an Interactive, Online Retail Experience For Fashion-Savvy Chinese Consumers
by Maria Bobila
Founder Liyia Wu attracts tens of thousands of followers in China for her QVC-esque in-store livestreams throughout the U.S.
The Fashion Law
Newest Trump Administration Initiative Pushes for 'Made in USA' Goods, But Wait ...
U.S. President Donald Trump is looking for ways to defend American-made products by certifying legitimate U.S. goods and aggressively going after imported products unfairly sporting the "Made in America" label, the White House said on Tuesday (Jul 18).
The New York Times
A Museum Show Asks: How Modern Are Your Spanx?
by Guy Trebay
The Museum of Modern Art has issued a list of items to be included in the October show “Is Fashion Modern?,” its first on the subject since 1944.
Grailed
Our Favorite Emerging Japanese Labels Right Now
by Leslie Zhang
While many Japanese designers have achieved global recognition, there are those whose popularity remains largely domestic. We highlight a few of Japan’s talented contemporary designers whose labels may very soon become international household names.
NPR
When Black Hair Violates The Dress Code
by Kayla Lattimore
For wearing their hair in braids, two teenagers were threatened with suspension at their charter school. Similar incidents show that strict dress codes can punish students for their racial identity.
Quartz
If you're looking for affordable luxury, India is the ultimate shopping destination
by Maria Thomas
There's a big market for well-made, stylish products at a price that's within reach.
This Is Africa Lifestyle
Borrow do not steal: Louis Vuitton strikes again this time leaving behind the Maasai shuka for the Basotho blanket
by Kylie Kiunguyu
Louis Vuitton has again met with criticism this time from South Africans, after turning the culturally significant Basotho blanket, into the latest fashion trend for men.
Glossy
Does Alessandro Michele have Gucci doing too much?
by Jessica Schiffer
Every week seems to bring with it more Gucci news, all of which is attributed directly to creative director Alessandro Michele. Though Michele has been widely celebrated for rejuvenating the brand (and significantly increasing its sales) since he took the reins in 2015, some in the industry caution that the recent onslaught of Gucci projects might be nearing overkill territory.
WWD
LVMH Inks Partnership With Italy's Polimoda for Leather-Goods Training
by Joelle Diderich
It’s the first time the luxury conglomerate’s Institut des Métiers d’Excellence has partnered with an Italian school for vocational training.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
"Computer Love"
Zapp & Roger
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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