In the end, everything is about language. It’s the most important thing in the world. And if you want people to hear you, it has to be the language of love. That’s all there is. That’s what stops people in their tracks.
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Judy Novak, wearing jewelry by her husband, Giora Novak. Vogue 1968.
(Bert Stern/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Wednesday - July 26, 2017 Wed - 07/26/17
rantnrave:// HELMUT LANG is a label I think everyone would love to see return to its glory days. The challenge? Helmut has been off the scene for a while now, and it's his vision that made the label great. Legacy is tricky. The latest vision for Helmut Lang looks well-executed at first glimpse, but I worry that people mistake stylistic imitation for homage in their mission to revive fashion labels. It wasn't just the logo, the minimal graphics and stark runways that made Lang important, but the spirit and attitude the designer brought to his collections. How does that translate to 2017? Lang wasn't interested in the system. So: Are branded campaigns, calculated INSTAGRAM reveals, and press releases the answer for this label?... The MICHAEL KORS deal to buy JIMMY CHOO for $1.2b is a bid for growth. The idea that Choo might bring some of the luxe sheen back to Kors leaves me a bit puzzled tbh. In my view the two brands have a lot of parity—large, commercial, built for mass luxury. And the Kors brand has been feeling the consequences of fashion pushing the mass sensibility too far. Kors CEO JOHN D. IDOL says the Jimmy Choo deal will not be the last acquisition. I find that an interesting proposition—that Kors could bring scrappier, more imaginative labels under its wing. Yet the company needs to prove it's an attractive umbrella for said companies... Briefs: OFF-WHITE x WARBY PARKER is out... ARMANI is streamlining its brands... A DIOR documentary aired on French network TV5 MONDE. Any further release planned?... I've always been more interested in fashion's capacity for cultural expression and individuality than news, and if you are too, you'll love these. Going nude for the first time with the NATURIST SOCIETY, and what media means for sapeurs.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
pastiche
Racked
Naked Truths
by Jamie Lauren Keiles
Who are we without our clothes?
The Business of Fashion
Tracking the Rise of 'Clean' Beauty
by Sarah Brown
Non-toxic beauty is more than a trend: It’s a health issue, a political issue - and a business opportunity. As the market shifts and consumers demand more from their products, will the establishment finally catch on?
Vestoj
A Billionaire In Clothes
by Alice Hines
A conversation with Ben Moukacha, Sapelogue.
The New York Times
Michael Kors to Buy Jimmy Choo in $1.2 Billion Deal
by Elizabeth Paton and Chad Bray
The agreement comes as upscale American brands grapple with plummeting sales and tepid profits, particularly in the so-called middle market.
StyleZeitgeist Mag
Visvim's Evolution
by Eugene Rabkin
Like most brands, Visvim, the cult Japanese label created and designed by Hiroki Nakamura, has its Parisian showroom in the Marais.
Vogue
For Helmut Lang's Editor in Residency Isabella Burley, Turning On a New Generation Is Job Number One
by Nicole Phelps
Isabella Burley, Helmut Lang’s new editor in residence, discusses her debut campaign, and the Re-edition and Seen By: Artist Series projects.
T Magazine
Fashion's Ultimate Fantasist Makes a Comeback
by Alexander Fury
Kansai Yamamoto, the designer that helped outfit David Bowie during the Ziggy Stardust era, is an unlikely inspiration for contemporary designers.
Glossy
Confessions of a casting director: 'Designers hoard models with no intention of booking them'
by Jessica Schiffer
When The Fashion Spot posted its seasonal diversity report after the fall 2017 shows in March, industry headlines were quick to celebrate a banner season. Across New York, London, Milan and Paris, more women of color had walked the runways than ever before: 72 percent of models were white, while 28 percent were women of color.
Complex
ASAP Mob's 'RAF' Video Was Inspired by a Visual Lookbook for Raf Simons' Debut Collection
by Karizza Sanchez and Mike Destefano
We also broke down the rare Raf pieces ASAP Rocky, Quavo, and Playboi Carti wore in the "RAF" music video.
SSENSE
Engineering the End of Fashion
by Kyle Chayka
A look into the logic of the engineered fashion subscription LOT2046.
relaunch
South China Morning Post
Cool, creative and breaking rules — Chinese millennials' streetwear
by Clay Hales
With money to spend and a willingness to take more risks than their global counterparts, China’s post-’80s generation is blurring fashion’s boundaries, some taking their cues from supermodels such as Ju Xiaowen and Liu Wen.
Forbes
Life With Luka Sabbat: Model, Entrepreneur, Influencer
by Joseph DeAcetis
In the world of menswear modeling, few individuals have the social media tenacity of a one Luka Sabbat. Just 19 years of age, Luka has already walked for Italian powerhouse Dolce & Gabbanna, posed for Hugo Boss, and has been a featured face in the Adidas Originals "Future" advertising campaign.
Fashionista
Blogger BFFs Nicolette Mason and Gabi Gregg Launch Their Own Plus-Size Line, Premme
by Tyler McCall
It's bringing a whole new point of view to the plus market.
The New York Times
Maestros of the Concert Merchandise Movement
by Valeriya Safronova
Two companies are in a race to corner the market on T-shirts branded with celebrities of the moment, such as the Weeknd, Lady Gaga and ASAP Rocky.
The Business of Fashion
How Bella Freud Is Sustaining Success in Her Second Act
by Tim Blanks
Bella Freud's first fashion business was a victim of the 'murderous' recession. Now, as she launches a collection with J Brand, she tells Tim Blanks how her career was reactivated almost by accident.
The Cut
Remembering Kenneth Jay Lane, Legendary New York Designer
by Wendy Goodman
In honor of Lane, who died last week at 85, we’re revisiting our 2001 visit to his home, with its Proustian décor and photographs of friends.
Brooklyn Fashion + Design Accelerator
The BF+DA TEK-TILES Team Creates 30 Smart Textiles
by Laura Forlano
Pratt Institute's BF+DA TEK-TILES team is in the process of creating 30 smart textiles as part of the summer intensive TEK-TILES project.
TechCrunch
Online consignment shop thredUp takes on The RealReal with launch of Luxe
by Sarah Perez
Online consignment shop thredUp is taking on The RealReal. The e-commerce site for secondhand items today announced the launch of a new luxury goods..
Stuff
Who made my clothes? Inside Cotton On's Chinese factories
by Sarah Catherall
If you have ever bought anything from Cotton On, this is where it all begins.
i-D Magazine
photographing the high heels and hedonism of 80s nyc nightlife
by Hannah Ongley
Frank Rispoli documented New York's legendary downtown club scene through the New Wave explosion of the late 70s and early 80s. Most of his photographs have never been exhibited.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
"Gucci Louis Polo Prada"
SMIB Worldwide
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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