I question whether creative leaders with an understanding of the societal component remain interested in fashion. It may explain why some have decided to walk out of the sector. | | Selfies. Suit by Sportswhirl Couture, Glamour 1962. (Sante Forlano/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | “I question whether creative leaders with an understanding of the societal component remain interested in fashion. It may explain why some have decided to walk out of the sector.” |
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| rantnrave:// ED FILIPOWSKI's op-ed in BOF calls out "Armchair Professionals" and "Backseat Drivers" for spreading bad vibes around NYFW. The man does not like people sitting down, okay (kidding)? Forget what people in seated positions are doing for a minute, and Filipowski's take offers a healthy shift in perspective. What caught my attention was Filipowski's comment about his staff's reaction after reading BRIDGET FOLEY's column (which I love btw) on the "Exodus from New York." They don't want the negativity. They want action. Generative solutions. And positivity. And the way Filipowski evokes collectivity here, by talking about his team and their desire to elevate NYFW, is great. It's true—there's a lot happening in NYC. All the grit and the grime, and overcoming and celebrating in spite of it all—that's always been part of the fabric of the city. CHROMAT, GYPSY SPORT, and TELFAR CLEMENS come to mind as labels that draw directly from their communities and the energy of NYC. And there are many others. The business has its challenges, but I'm all for asking big, speculative questions. Why not? The op-ed is great food for thought. And it gets conversations going. A good thing. Here's a list of designers who have moved their shows this fall. And get a standing desk if you work at KCD (totally kidding—we have KCD subscribers, shoutout KCD and keep fighting the good fight)... There's an awareness that we're part of a constantly evolving, interconnected network, and that makes meaning feel contingent, relative, always subject to change. Enter fake logos and outright dismissal that a brand can authoritatively control communication. That's my hot take of the day. Does this one look familiar? Or this, from FREAK CITY?... ICYMI: NIKE teams up with THE BASEMENT... The BORDER ADJUSTMENT TAX is off the table... Wear the walls with these OMA-designed graphic poster t-shirts from PRADA... KERING earnings take off. | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| | The New York Times |
There has been much ado over the past few months about the declarations of fashion designers regarding the current administration, but they are not the only members of the fashion world who have been politicized by the actions of President Trump. The outdoor apparel sector is also stepping into the spotlight. | |
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| The Business of Fashion |
It’s time for the fashion industry to stop fixating on what’s wrong with New York Fashion Week and start embracing new ideas that can take us forward, argues Ed Filipowski. | |
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| VICELAND |
Hailey travels to France to see how Islamophobia impacts the Muslim community. | |
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| Racked |
Sans serif fonts are a clue not just to what a company sells, but how they do it. | |
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| Document Journal |
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac has been breaking the rules: first as a fashion designer who clothed Mick Jagger, Andy Warhol, and even Pope Jean-Paul II—who commissioned the French designer to dress himself, 5,000 priests, and 500 bishops for his 1997 visit to France—and now as an artist. | |
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| Harper's Bazaar |
A year into his tenure at the helm of Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello is rethinking French fashion. | |
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| The Fashion Law |
The success of fast fashion retailers demonstrates quite clearly that legal protection for garments and accessories is somewhat limited in comparison to the protection afforded to other creative works (think: art, music, literature, etc.). | |
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| Fashionista |
The former Net-a-Porter VP is now Dutch LLC's Chief Brand Officer. | |
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| Glossy |
In case you need anymore proof that Gucci is the current star of the luxury industry, here it is: The brand hasn't had to markdown a single item so far this year. Kering announced its first half results for 2017 on Thursday (Jul 27), and the standout brand saw revenues rise 43 percent year over year, to $3.3 billion. | |
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| Digiday |
A traditional media company editor laments the "institutional arrogance" that holds one company back. | |
| | SSENSE |
Balenciaga outfits the age of psychological mapping. | |
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| Fast Company |
DSTLD is one of a slew of “ethical” fashion companies trying to minimize their environmental impact, guarantee living wages, and keep their prices low. | |
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| i-D Magazine |
Rebranded is a collaboration between recent Parsons graduate Joy Marie Douglas and a community of former inmates, including her father. | |
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| The Business of Fashion |
As incoming chief executive Eric Marechalle takes control of the troubled LVMH-owned brand, it's unclear how involved Mr Marc Jacobs will be in the company's turnaround strategy. | |
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| Loose Threads |
Olivia Wright wants to bring social responsibility to contemporary fashion.It’s easier said than done, with companies like Toms allowing consumers to make philanthropic purchases at an inexpensive price point. But Wright’s mission has always been two-fold, and she spoke about the her brand Rallier's journey on the 24th episode of the Loose Threads Podcast. | |
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| Vogue |
The trio has also created installations for Hermès, Karl Lagerfeld, Comme des Garçons, Colette, and events at Cannes. | |
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| Bloomberg |
There was a false sense of recognition. | |
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| Sourcing Journal Online |
Startup BrightLabel is using digital labels to help brands and retailers improve transparency and consumer engagement. | |
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| Fashionista |
The jacket, by Israeli designer Danit Peleg, is completely made-to-meaure and zero-waste, but it's not cheap. | |
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| Fortune Magazine |
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