Vogue is a potent drug women get lost in. We are making more than magazines, we are making the most addictive substance there is — the dream.
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Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg, Vogue 1970.
(Bert Stern/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Tuesday - August 01, 2017 Tue - 08/01/17
rantnrave:// The world of influencers. It's a gold rush space. This WWD piece looks at influencers who can guarantee sales vs. those that guarantee massive audience reach, with commentary from industry sources. Rare is the influencer who wields an audience with motivation to both look and buy. Here's a great follow-up #thread from JAY OWENS, research director at PULSAR, who brings up some great points about bots. As the influencer space becomes more standardized, will brands become more focused in their approach? So much of the influencer game feels highly programmatic, yet few are incentivized to point that out or change the status quo. INSTAGRAM has been rolling out a lot of tools to further embed influencers in its network, with metrics, product tagging, e-commerce integration, etc. Will there be a new, next platform for influencers? History says yes, but Instagram's dominance thus far makes it seem unlikely in the near term... Influencers today stand on the shoulders of independent bloggers. They swept the fashion industry not long ago, yet many of them have noticeably receded into a quieter media presence or have left the industry altogether. Brava to FASHIONISTA for launching the series "A Decade in Digital," which looks at fashion pioneers who were there, internet-first. Their first interview is with one of the most significant media players to emerge from the blogger era, SCOTT SCHUMAN of THE SARTORIALIST. Great to see online publications covering the earlier days, which will become more significant as time goes on. Looking forward to the rest of the series... Welcome to the Women's Athleisure Association (side note: it's not real)... The mind wanders thinking about how these ended up here. Reports from REDDIT on $4 SUPREME blanks found at a KMART in IDAHO... NICOPANDA x AMAZON FASHION EUROPE... There's a ZARA documentary on deck... How's this for optics?
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
metrics
Racked
The Persistent Fantasy of the Fashion Magazine Job
by Alice Bolin
The magazine industry is dying - but the fantasy isn't.
Vanity Fair
How Raf Simons Captured the Calvin Klein Empire
by Bob Colacello
The Belgian designer has long been a darling of the fashion world, so it’s no surprise that his latest act, a creative reboot of an $8.4 billion American fashion house, has the industry swooning. In the designer’s first major interview since his New York debut, he describes his approach.
Fashionista
A Decade in Digital: Scott Schuman Hopes His Work Transcends Fashion
by Tyler McCall
The photographer behind "The Sartorialist" weighs in on the current state of street style.
The Business of Fashion
China's Store of the Future Has No Checkout, No Cash and No Staff
by Kati Chitrakorn
In this month’s China Edit, more Chinese retailers are testing 24-hour stores run entirely by technology, while Gucci and Louis Vuitton have finally launched e-commerce in China.
WWD
The Blogger Divide: Converters or Brand-Builders?
by Rachel Strugatz
Two types of bloggers are quickly emerging -- and there is little overlap.
1 Granary
New Waves: Kevin Germanier
by Bella Russell Hill
Ecochic Design Award winner Kevin Germanier talked us through his fascination with creative transformations.
The New York Times
India's Favorite Designer Makes a Bid for Western Acclaim
by Valeriya Safronova
Anita Dongre, who spent 2016 in the spotlight after the Duchess of Cambridge wore one of her dresses, opened her first store in the United States.
i-D Magazine
global street style: fashion's russian revolution
i-D heads to Russia for exclusive backstage access to Gosha Rubchinskiy’s spring/summer 18 show in St. Petersburg.
It's Nice That
WGSN's colour director on the evolution of how humans perceive and define colour
by Jane Monnington Boddy
WGSN's colour director Jane Monnington Boddy tells the fascinating history of how humans have attempted to communicate and define colour, following the launch of a major new colour system.
High Snobiety
We Asked Industry Insiders If They Care Where Sneakers Are Made
by Chris Danforth
Naturally a made-in-Italy tag carries a different connotation than made-in-China. But do industry insiders care about where their sneakers are made?
hieroglyphic
Grailed
Culture Creator Capricorn Clark Talks Hip-Hop and Opens Up Her OG Streetwear Archive
by Lawrence Schlossman
To know Capricorn Clark is to know the culture. And I don’t say that lightly. The hip-hop and streetwear vet has had her fingers on the pulse for nearly two decades and her story is one we can all learn from.
British Vogue
School Of Christian Dior
by Suzy Menkes
Is it possible for the work of a fashion artist to be reconstituted by a series of followers -- after the original designer has left the stage?
AnOther
Meet the Emerging Designer Turning Luxury on its Head
by Jorinde Croese
We speak with Rok Hwang, the man behind new womenswear label ROKH, to discover more about his considered, uniquely relatable design ethos.
WSJ
Saint Laurent to Launch Online Sales in China
by Matthew Dalton
French fashion house Saint Laurent is launching online sales in China, a major step in the storied brand’s efforts to expand in China’s fast-growing domestic market.
The Washington Post
Better than tie-dye: Hermès will re-invent your old scarf. For free. As long as it's Hermès
by Robin Givhan
Hermès will dip-dye their vintage scarves for free. One customer brought in 32 of them.
The Fashion Law
Looking Back at Helmut Lang
"Vogue’s" Sarah Mower probably put it best: What [Helmut Lang] achieved in the nineties is so little written about, so far beyond the existing reach of the Internet--and was so elusive, even at the time--that it’s hard to capture its enormity.
WWD
Elise by Olsen Delves Into Fashion Power Via New Magazine
by Rosemary Feitelberg
For the launch issue of "Wallet" magazine, Adrian Joffe of Comme des Garçons discusses power and authority in the fashion industry.
Retail Dive
Private equity and retail -- a match made for striking
by Daphne Howland
Time after time, private equity firms swoop in to rescue faltering retailers. But are they doing more harm than good?
Glossy
How Rent the Runway is pulling off deliveries at the speed of Amazon
by Hilary Milnes
Rent the Runway is hoping a guaranteed same-day delivery window will attract Prime users and fast-fashion addicts alike. With a special operations team and RFID technology, the rental service is promising that orders in New York City will be delivered by 5 p.m. at no extra cost.
WNYC
Is the Garment Center Out of Fashion?
by Jessica Gould
The mayor has a plan to help the industry by moving it to Brooklyn. But critics worry it will only make things worse.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Holiday"
Madonna
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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