Everybody thinks that they have to get that bag or they have to look like this. But we would like to give benefit of the doubt to people to say that maybe they want to choose themselves. We like to give them the chance to express themselves in their own way.
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Coco. Gabrielle Chanel circa 1962.
(Evening Standard/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
Thursday - August 03, 2017 Thu - 08/03/17
rantnrave:// For a lot of people, environmental issues are massive but not yet infringing upon daily liberties. It's not going up in flames tomorrow? Forget it. We've got deadlines. And since endangered species and intensely beautiful wonders of nature aren't your best friend or your mom, dad, kids or whoever, it just doesn't seem as pressing. Or "cool." And yet. We're at a point where the largest players in the apparel industry will cease to be in business if they don't consider projections on climate change, shrinking resources, clean energy, etc. You can't make stuff when there's no stuff left. And a large number of smaller companies are competing by selling responsibly made stuff to people who are looking for it. The issues? Some of the "sustainable" fashion offerings appeal to one aesthetic leaning. Some are downright fug (IMHO). But there are designers looking to break the "eco-chic" stereotype. The issues are there to be debated, considered, wrangled with, and creatively worked out. There are growing conversations about detoxing fashion and a lot of customers want it. What's being done? FashionSET: Greenwashing? Fashion's Environmental Issues... ADRIAN JOFFE offers some refreshing clarity in this interview with HIGHSNOBIETY's TIM SUEN. Joffe talks about how there's less planning and more intuition involved in opening new DOVER STREET MARKET locations, the most recent of which just opened in SINGAPORE. Knowing what to ignore and being confident not everyone will understand what you do—that is true luxury. Also, the icy indoor conditions of relentless air conditioning contribute to "seasonless" dressing... In brief: Today's top story by G. BRUCE BOYER is fantastic for its understanding of the social history of clothing... YEEZY jewelry is now at COLETTE... US VOGUE bids for more revenue with a conference... If it's good enough for KARL—"it" being a sideways library... YOOX NET-A-PORTER beats earning estimates... FashionREDEF is taking a long weekend. On Monday, we're excited to welcome back NICOLA FUMO, your guest curator for the next two weeks.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
circular
First Things
Dress Up
by G. Bruce Boyer
What we lost in the casual revolution.
GQ Style
Aziz Ansari on Quitting the Internet, Loneliness, and Season Three of 'Master of None'
by Mark Anthony Green
With the rapturous reception to ‘Master of None’s’ second season, Aziz Ansari is at the height of his career. The stand-up turned TV auteur tells "GQ Style" why he can’t write the third season yet.
High Snobiety
Adrian Joffe Explains Why Dover Street Market Opened in Singapore
by Alec Leach and Tim Suen
We caught up with COMME des GARCONS and Dover Street Market head honcho, Adrian Joffe, at the opening of Dover Street Market Singapore.
What's Good with Stretch & Bobbito
What's Good with Stretch & Bobbito: Eddie Huang
by Robert "Bobbito" Garcia, Adrian "Stretch" Bartos and Eddie Huang
The best-selling author of "Fresh Off The Boat" and host of "Huang's World" sits down with Stretch and Bobbito to talk sneakers, hip-hop and the American dream.
High Snobiety
Meet Gucci's Latest Collaborator, Artist Coco Capitan
by Jian DeLeon
Spanish artist Coco Capitan created a series of off-beat aphorisms in collaboration with Gucci, which just hit stores. Find out more about her and her work.
Fashionista
The Selling Power of Gucci's Relentless Gucciness
by Steve Dool
Are fashion editors burning out on Alessandro Michele's vision for the brand? It may not even matter.
Vestoj
Neutrals and Neons
by Candace Opper
"I have long considered sewing to be my mother’s career, though she seldom refers to herself as a seamstress -- a term she pooh-poohs with a mix of modesty and contempt. She prefers the more active: I sew, subtly implying, therefore I am."
Vanity Fair
How the Trump Era Has Wreaked Havoc on Washington's Plastic Surgery Schedules
by Kenzie Bryant
The Senate’s delayed August recess has backlogged a lot of things--including plastic surgeon and dermatologist schedules.
Parisian Gentleman
Are Suits Conservative? (part 2)
by John Slamson
My dear friend Alexander Freeling and I were recently discussing whether suits were conservative. The answer is obviously that they are--and quite equally obviously that they are not. It is all a question of context.
FiveThirtyEight
Women Are Making Over The Beauty Industry's Boy's Club
by Michelle Cheng
The technology sector has been in the hot seat recently over its lack of gender balance, but it’s not the only industry whose upper echelons remain male-dominated. The multibillion-dollar beauty industry sells primarily to women, but its biggest companies continue to be run mostly by men. 
eco
REDEF
REDEF FashionSET: Greenwashing? Fashion's Environmental Issues
by FashionREDEF
The environment is becoming an urgent issue for the apparel industry as long term projections show shrinking resources and increased customer demand. Just how far has fashion moved on environmental issues?
The New York Times
From President Macron, a Lesson in Style
by Guy Trebay
Our politicians, with their lackluster style, should look to Paris for an example of expert image management.
Racked
Shopping for Boys' Clothes Is So Boring
by Claire Zulkey
Why does it have to be that way?
Tank Magazine
Elemental
by Tamsin Blanchard
The latest Levi’s Made & Crafted collection is straight from the extremes of Iceland.
The Fashion Law
Wil Fry Takes on The Old Guard versus The New Order
Wil Fry, the designer behind those Ian Connor wares, Givenchy t-shirt on-a-t-shirts, and ad campaign-covered bomber jackets, has taken – yet again –  to commenting on the current state of the industry, his favorite topic of parody. Enter: The "ss17" long-sleeve t-shirt, which Australian-born, New York-based Fry dropped on Wednesday (Aug 2) on his website.
Fashionista
For Outdoor Voices, Opening Stores Is All About Building Community
by Dhani Mau
That's what you need to become "the next great activewear brand," and Los Angeles is ready.
Glossy
Black Frame's Brian Phillips: 'We want clients who want to be in the history books'
by Hilary Milnes
Black Frame, the fashion PR firm and consulting agency, has helped introduce brands like Opening Ceremony, Kenzo and Rodarte into the public eye. Now, founder and president Brian Phillips is going beyond brand image and digging into developing strategy for brands.
Lean Luxe
With 'Return Bars' and 'Returnistas,' Happy Returns is eliminating the hassle of returning online orders by mail
by M. Paul Munford
Happy Returns is a new upstart that's addressing a new need in today's e-commerce driven world: Rather than doing returns by mail, customers are able to drop off their online returns at a Happy Bar, and Happy Returns handles the rest.
WSJ
Uniqlo Will Sell Clothes From Vending Machines
by Khadeeja Safdar
Japanese retailer Uniqlo plans to roll out 10 vending machines this month and next in U.S. airports and malls, part of a scaled-down expansion plan after sales at the company’s American stores fell short of forecasts.
New Republic
Who Are the New Yuppies?
by J.C. Pan
How the aspirational class expresses its status in an age of inequality.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"何もいらない"
Taeko Onuki
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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