There seems to be this strange feeling that you can be whoever you want as long as it’s ‘yours,’ which seems very counter to the idea of cross-pollination, acceptance, and equality.
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Models in Marc Jacobs' fall 2017 collection.
(Presley Ann/Patrick McMullan/Getty Images)
Tuesday - August 08, 2017 Tue - 08/08/17
rantnrave:// Watching this concert vid of HALSEY and CHARLI XCX (who is wearing the coolest pearlescent satin carpenter pants—sounds like a lot but trust me) cover "Wannabe" by the SPICE GIRLS at LOLLAPALOOZA had me feeling grateful for the "girl power" messaging the Spice Girls spouted to me and all the other eight year olds growing up in 1996. We're in another big "girl power" moment, acknowledging gender inequality across culture and hearing from a larger variety of femme-identifying people than ever before. Props to the all-woman brand team running the global NIKE account at digital agency THE PROGRAM, crafting a global content strategy around new product for the renowned athletic label. One day, we won't have to be surprised and delighted by an all-woman team doing anything 'cause it'll be the norm... That's the future GIRL CULT is looking to create. "Think COACHELLA for women, or LILITH FAIR for Gen Z," says PRINCE CHENOA, founder of digital teen mag GALORE, which is behind the event. My interest is piqued... THE CUT makes the case for "plus-size" (hate that term) model ASHLEY GRAHAM as a legit supermodel (I didn't realize we still needed the point clarified). Where KENDALL and GIGI offer followers as currency, Graham's "selling point [is] her attainable sense of self-worth," writes JADA YUAN. I wish one of the Spice Girls had been a double-digit clothing size; that would have been impactful as an elementary school girl (a chubby one, at that!). I'm glad this new generation of girls will see bodies like Graham's and be able to experience live music in an environment like Girl Cult and be professionally developed working under female leaders, like the team at The Program... Can MARC JACOBS reverse cultural appropriation critiques by working directly with said culture? A short (and refreshingly honest) profile on the designer in the September issue of INSTYLE is accompanied by a fashion spread lensed by HYPE WILLIAMS and featuring a coterie of hip-hop greats—KURTIS BLOW, BIZ MARKIE, SALT N PEPA, LL COOL J—dressed in Jacobs' fall collection: an "exposition on hip-hop style," writes ERIC WILSON. The photos look awesome, the clothes are cool, but it does feel like a little apology tour following the outrage that came with his spring 2017 runway show. (ICYMI: Mostly white models were done up in faux dreadlocks, "[failing] to credit anyone Black or anything associated with Black culture as inspiration," noted JULEE WILSON for ESSENCE. The designer then wrote in a heated INSTAGRAM comment debate, "Funny how you don't criticize women of color for straightening their hair." Cue more outrage.) I don't think Jacobs is a bad dude, I think he was like, 'Hey, I like the looks of this,' as he has for decades of designing; as have many. The outrage that came—and Jacobs admitting "I feel out of touch with what today really looks like"—is good. It's good that marginalized groups are being heard. It's good that we're having these confrontations because they lead to conversations, and that's the road to understanding each other. Fashion has needed a representation wakeup for a long time... FASHIONISTA is putting together its annual fashion school ranking and looking for input from current fashion school students and alumni. Weigh in here—it's quick!
- Nicola Fumo, guest curator
fast-forward
The Guardian
If plus-size modelling is glorification of obesity, I’ll eat my hat
by Arwa Mahdawi
According to some journalists and doctors, allowing curvy girls on the catwalk is irresponsible. When will we stop this oppression of the thin minority?
Business Insider
Amazon is the new Walmart: the e-commerce giant is increasingly becoming a symbol for everything wrong with big business
by Kate Taylor
Walmart was once stereotyped as everything that was wrong with the retail industry. Now, Amazon is stepping into that undesirable role.
The Cut
Ashley Graham Is a Supermodel
by Jada Yuan
Ashley Graham's lifelong mission to lift women up has taken on ridiculous, corporeal form today. That form is me, clinging to her arm, trying not to die, as she takes me Rollerblading for maybe the third time in my life."I know you're nervous. You can totally do this! I got you!"
Fast Company
At “Lilith Fair For Gen Z,” Inclusion And Diversity Take Center Stage
by Rina Raphael
Willow Smith, Tyra Banks, and Jaime King are just some of the celebs headlining a festival for social justice-oriented Generation Z girls.
Quartz
New technology promises a comfortable high heel, but begs the question: Why wear heels at all?
by Marc Bain
A promising new startup says it can make high heels comfortable. But it's battling physics and physiology.
Apparel Magazine
How 3.1 Phillip Lim Runs a Tight Ship Despite Rapid Growth
by Jordan Speer
That's a large enterprise to manage, and although 3.1 Phillip Lim had an ERP system in place, it had several limitations, says Zhou. For example, workflows were done outside of the system in Excel, which required manual entry and was prone to error.
The New York Times
Engineering Happiness at Zappos
by Perry Garfinkel
His job is to design activities that keep employees smiling -- and loyal to the company.
AnOther
Fashion Powerhouse Lucien Pagès is Taking Colette on Holiday
by Sarah Moroz
The PR maven talks us through his vacation-themed curation of the famed Parisian store, and shares some of his treasured holiday photographs
Digiday
Shoemaker Kickers capitalizes on FOMO to spur purchases
by Seb Joseph
The shoe brand instills urgency into its content to drive conversion rates.
Glossy
How H&M is using Instagram to drive interest in its latest brand, Arket
by Bethany Biron
As the H&M Group prepares to launch the newest retailer in its arsenal, it's enlisting the help of social media - namely Instagram - to build interest. Arket, the Swedish company's seventh brand, launches on August 25 with a brick-and-mortar store in London and an e-commerce site available to 18 countries in Europe.
pause
InStyle.com
Marc Jacobs on Hip Hop and Charges of Cultural Appropriation: 'Maybe I've Been Insensitive'
by Eric Wilson
Plus, watch Salt-n-Peppa talk about pioneering the ripped jeans look.
Quartz
Multilevel-marketing companies like LuLaRoe are forcing people into debt and psychological crisis
by Alden Wicker
One of America's most popular business opportunities is financially jeopardizing millions.
Highsnobiety
Meet the Rich Teens That Actually Bought the Supreme x Louis Vuitton Trunks
by Ross Wilson
Why would someone so young spend such a vast amount of money on a Supreme x Louis Vuitton trunk? 
Mediakix
Are Fake Instagram Influencers Deceiving Brands?
Read how one agency created 2 entirely fake Instagram influencer accounts & proceeded to secure sponsorships & deals from brands.
artnet
Lab Introduces Singularity Black, the Blackest Paint--And You Don't Have to Be Anish Kapoor to Use It
by Sarah Cascone
Vantablack has a new competitor, Singularity Black, a super-black paint that is available to all artists, not just Anish Kapoor.
The Guardian
Welcome to Gwyneth’s Goop 'mudroom.' But does it sell rose quartz vaginal eggs?
by Hadley Freeman
As Goop Mrkt brings ‘the farm aesthetic of Cornwall to the Hamptons’, our style expert says the most fashionable stores are never really about selling stuff.
The Fashion Law
Intellectual Property 101: A Primer on Fashion IP
For lawyers and non-lawyers, alike, intellectual property (or "IP") represents an extremely important sect of law due to its ability to protect "creations of the mind," such as inventions; literary and artistic works; designs; and symbols, names and images used in commerce.
The Business of Fashion
What Can Luxury Learn from Beauty Influencers?
by Chantal Fernandez
In a world where earned media often speaks louder than paid marketing, the cost of not nurturing conversation can be high.
WWD
The Power of Social Audiences on Fashion and Beauty Brands
by Aimee Leabon
Forget the board. For many fashion and beauty brands, social media audiences are dictating the way they do business -- from product development to campaign execution.
Fashionista
Hey, Quick Question: Why Are So Many Magazines Abandoning In-Person Celebrity Interviews?
by Whitney Bauck
Is interviewing by email -- and even text -- going to be the new norm for cover stories?
MUSIC OF THE DAY
Spotify
"LMK"
Kelela
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