The scene needs to evolve, not just have one standout designer. I’m part of a community. I can't win solo—the community needs to win.
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Laid back in Diane von Furstenberg and Piero Nuti for I. Miller. Vogue 1971.
(Bert Stern/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Thursday - August 24, 2017 Thu - 08/24/17
rantnrave:// Is custom clothing relevant? Sure, it's niche, but for those who seek it out, it offers a kind of dignity not found on frenzied retail floors. Fit. Fabric choice. And customers leave with a garment they won't want to throw out in a month. It presents both a benefit and a threat to the fashion system. Or does it? Can retail deal with people consuming less and better? If retail and fashion need to focus more on experience, custom clothing is as experiential as it gets. And custom garments don't come exclusively from haute couture or SAVILE ROW. ELIZA BROOKE visited designer AUDRA NOYES and found that she and SUSAN SHERMAN have formed a firm relationship. And that working with private clients can be a sound growth strategy for new designers. The continual, one-on-one feedback Noyes gets from clients directly affects styles she creates for her ready-to-wear collection. Another story on custom garments comes from the world of bespoke denim. TROY PATTERSON made a journey to 3x1 to have a custom pair of jeans made and found that they quickly became his favorite pair. Although 3x1 loses money on the first pair, customers often find the experience is a gateway—there's no turning back. And let's not forget the templated, software-driven examples of customization. I'm thinking of the custom variations from NIKE ID. Also would love to see what CALVIN KLEIN's "By Appointment" atelier service has been up to... Color is deeply symbolic across cultures, used to communicate style, power, wealth, and belonging. There's been some amazing writing on color and its place in culture and society. MICHEL PASTOUREAU on green (and red/blue/black), and JOHN HARVEY's books MEN IN BLACK and THE STORY OF BLACK. In fashion, color marks out our place in time by season, year, and decade. These stories highlight the meaning of color, how it's made, and the business of creating color trends. FashionSET: Polychrome World... Briefs: Is TONY BENNETT VETEMENTS?... Love this comparison of VIRGIL ABLOH x NIKE's "THE TEN" with the original Nike sneakers.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
hue
Vestoj
Life in Colour: Green
by Alice Hines
Colour is the first thing you notice about Elizabeth Eaton Rosenthal. When we meet on a Saturday afternoon at her home in Brooklyn, the seventy-six-year-old is wearing algae mascara, pea overalls, and clogs spray-painted grass. They match her walls, carpet, picture frames and hair. Her iPad is tiled with sticker frogs.
REDEF
REDEF FashionSET: Polychrome World
by FashionREDEF
Color is deeply symbolic across cultures, used to communicate style, power, wealth, and belonging. These stories highlight the meaning of color, how it's made, and the business of creating color trends.
GQ Style
Virgil Abloh On the Evolution of Off-White, Karl Lagerfeld, and How He Juggles His Insane Schedule
by Will Welch
The Off-White designer reveals how much sleep he requires and explains why creatives get wack as they age.
Yahoo! Beauty
Chelsea Manning on beauty: 'This is an expression of my humanity'
by Chelsea Manning and Elena Sheppard
Chelsea Manning shares with Yahoo Beauty what it’s like to finally be open in the world with her identity, and how her expression of that, through her approach to beauty and style, is ever evolving.
Racked
In a Zara World, Who Orders Custom Clothing?
by Eliza Brooke
Inside the private appointments where customers work with the designer herself.
Bloomberg
What Do You Get When You Spend $1,500 on a Pair of Blue Jeans?
by Troy Patterson
An inside look at the bespoke denim business of New York’s 3x1.
Fashionista
How Dianne Garcia Successfully Ditched College to Style Hip-Hop and R&B's Biggest Names
by Maria Bobila
She's Top Dawg Entertainment's go-to stylist, working with SZA, Kendrick Lamar and Schoolboy Q.
Fast Company
Everlane's Quest To Make The World's Most Sustainable Denim
by Elizabeth Segran
Making a pair of jeans creates massive pollution. But Everlane found a factory where denim by-product is turned into bricks and polluted water is filtered.
Quartz
A new high-tech fabric could mean the end of bulky layers in the winter
by Marc Bain
The US Army is developing a fabric coated with nanowires that could end up in regular clothes.
PYMNTS.com
JOOR CEO: Why Digital Wholesale Ordering Is Fashion's Latest Trend
by Kristin Savilia and Karen Webster
What’s more fashionable than efficiency? Yet, until recently, it wasn’t a trend the luxury fashion market had really tried on. Kristin Savilia, CEO of the digital wholesale fashion marketplace JOOR, remembers working as a buyer for Macy’s in the 1990s.
saturation
The Verge
Elon Musk reveals first official photo of SpaceX space suit
by Thuy Ong
Elon Musk has posted the official first photo of his SpaceX spacesuit on Instagram, teasing that more details will come in a few days. Musk says the suit actually works, and was tested to double vacuum pressure. The suit itself is very white and very spacey, and Musk acknowledges that it was "incredibly hard" to balance the suit's look and its function.
The Fashion Law
Fashion's Favorite New Instagram Tactic: Sourcing Content From Users
As brands continue to rely heavily on Instagram and other social platforms as a means of advertising and driving sales, an increasingly common technique is emerging: The utilization of consumer and/or influencer-generated content.
Atlas Obscura
How 7 Sisters Made a Fortune off Their Rapunzel-Like Hair
by Maria Ricapito
In the late 1800s, the Sutherland women earned millions by marketing a hair-growth tonic.
PBS Newshour
Warby Parker's CEO on how to thrive in retail as big-box stores are dying
by Diane Lincoln Estes
Warby Parker’s co-CEO explains why his e-commerce company is opening up brick-and-mortar stores even as traditional big-box retailers are shuttering theirs.
Grailed
Brain Dead's Commitment to Art and Music's Most Off-Kilter Elements
by Gregory Babcock
Founded in 2014, Brain Dead began as a conversation and grew into a collaborative project between Kyle Ng and Ed Davis. The two met--ironically--via the internet, discovering that they had the same passion for B-movies, underground culture, “and weirdo stuff in general.”
Fashion Unfiltered
Manish Arora Examines His Roots
by Shweta Shiware
At a celebratory show in Mumbai, the Indian designer reflects on his international-and at times, controversial-career
Sportswear International.com
Sustainability Panel – Let’s be frank: Do people give a s*** about sustainability?
by Juliette Tafreschi
Sustainability is a topic that will never lose its significance--but it is also one that especially challenges the fashion industry and puts it under constant scrutiny.
Racked
The Popular Alabama Radio Show Where People Sell Their Stuff
by William Browning
Before Craigslist, there was radio. On WCKA’s “Tradeline,” there still is.
Glossy
Why luxury brands are looking to travel retail to stay afloat
by Jessica Schiffer
Luxury brands are increasingly looking to travel to fill a void created by the struggling retail market. In May, Richemont bought a 5 percent stake in Dufry, one of the world's largest duty-free chains. Johann Rupert, the company's CEO, said at the time that more robots in the workplace will free up people so they'll travel more.
The Cut
Princess Diana's Secret Tapes and Her Celebrity Savvy
by Rachel Tashjian
Twenty years after her death, new documentaries show how she learned to control her narrative.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
"Feels So Good"
A$AP Mob
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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