Fashion must be the most intoxicating release from the banality of the world.
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Days of summer. Vogue 1971.
(Bert Stern/Condé Nast/Getty Images)
Monday - August 28, 2017 Mon - 08/28/17
rantnrave:// Merch fascinates me because of its connection to fans. Fans generate hype, and hype surfaces—or rather, experiences periodic blowouts—in media. I like merch. I don't wear it, unless one considers being really into materials and almost everything by THE ROW to be some kind of textile nerd brand of fandom. It's all merch, anyway. MAX BERLINGER asks if we've reached peak merch, as in "heavily logo-ed promotional apparel," which is a great description btw. Good question. If you ask those who make it their business to know the finer points of fashion, many would immediately say, yes, for the love of all things holy never show me another hoodie with letters screen-printed vertically down the sleeve ever again. But those at the leading edge of fashion, those who see every product release and read every bit of style commentary—those who must know to let others know—aren't necessarily the primary drivers of merch. And they aren't necessarily merch's biggest champions. My question is: will style continue to be dictated by massive network numbers? Will downloads, likes, shares, and the COMSCORE gawds continue to be the ultimate style currency? What's next, nano-influencers? Anything under the radar today may as well be dead. Pushing things to the top of the feed rules, at least for the moment. That's not an endorsement. Merely an observation. Now going to search someone's weird old TUMBLR. Bye... KENDRICK LAMAR shows everyone how next-season style is done wearing Spring 2018 PRADA at the VMAs... Nice to see GIRLFRIEND COLLECTIVE covered in RACKED. The company has product, price, and messaging right on its signature black legging. Now there's a full line... More possibilities for how clothing gets made: the Sewbot and biotech leather.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
telepresence
Die, Workwear!
Why Buy Handmade Goods?
by Derek Guy
In order for hand-craftsmanship to mean something again, we need to develop a more critical understanding of the concept. This not only means knowing more about the production process, but also knocking down some myths.
Bloomberg
The Innovation That Changed Fashion Forever
by Troy Patterson
At the Museum of Modern Art’s second-ever fashion exhibition, the zipper gets its due.
The Washington Post
The fashionable woman in the Islamic attire
by Robin Givhan
It may be that someone steeped in Islamic traditions would find Elizabeth Bucar’s exploration of style among Muslim women in Iran, Turkey and Indonesia simplistic.
The Business of Fashion
Have We Reached Peak 'Merch'?
by Max Berlinger
From Vetements’ 'DHL' tee to Zoe Church’s Bieber-approved hoodies, heavily logo-ed promotional apparel has never been more fashionable. But is branded merchandise simply a passing trend, or indicative of a sincere shift in consumer values?
The New York Times
Despite Turkish Strife, Fashion Brands Stay True to Istanbul
by Elizabeth Paton
Turkey is in a state of turmoil, but many small fashion and lifestyle businesses remain upbeat and resilient in the face of uncertainty and unrest.
Quartz
Amazon has an algorithm that designs clothes by replicating human creativity
by Marc Bain
An innovative AI technique lets Amazon design new clothes without human designers.
The New Yorker
An Obsessive Guide to Music Played at the Gap in the Nineties and Early Aughts
by Eric Harvey
In-store programmed music can, it turns out, create its own strain of music-nerd exclusivity.
Racked
These Workout Leggings Are Like a Sports Bra for Your Butt
by Beca Grimm
Which is why they’re all over Facebook.
Highsnobiety
Meet the Collector of Some of the Rarest '90s Sportswear
by Renz Ofiaza
Vintage clothing and memorabilia collector Josh Matthews talks with Adsum about vintage apparel, style and more.
Glossy
Confessions of a fashion intern: 'Most people at magazines still seem to operate by fear'
by Jessica Schiffer
For our latest installment of confessions, in which we grant anonymity to someone in the industry to speak openly about their profession, we spoke to a current intern working in one of the editorial fashion departments at Hearst. Now on her third internship, she opened up about everything from the lack of payoff to the consistently catty environment.
satellite
The Business of Fashion
Can Cannabis Beauty Go Mass?
by Rachel Jacoby Zoldan
Marijuana’s active ingredients have been proven beneficial when applied topically, but legal limitations may prohibit beauty brands from successfully scaling the opportunity.
GQ
The Rise of the Spa for Dudes
by Cam Wolf
Finally, a safe space for men!
The New Yorker
Channelling Rei Kawakubo at the Met
by Amanda Yaggy
The avant-garde designer’s work is ordered thematically and by color, not chronologically, and the past seems to hover and circle around a viewer.
Vogue
For the Stylish, Socially Conscious Purveyors of Legalized Cannabis, the Future Is Looking Very Green Indeed
by Alessandra Codinha
The newest additions to the world of cannabis are subtle, sophisticated, and stylish.
Fast Company
This T-Shirt Sewing Robot Could Radically Shift The Apparel Industry
by Adele Peters
In a soon-to-open Arkansas factory, 21 production lines manned by the Sewbot will be capable of making 1.2 million T-shirts a year-and the ripple effects will soon be felt in garment factories in the developing world.
The Economist
Leather grown using biotechnology is about to hit the catwalk
Genetic engineering is used to make leather without animals.
AnOther
The Florentine Pharmacy Founded in 1221
by Thea Hawlin
Worship at the frescoed chapel of Santa Maria Novella, the 13th-century-founded, orange blossom-clad pharmacy.
The Fashion Law
Can Gap Inc. Retrain the Discount-Expecting Consumer?
Gap Inc. recently reported better-than-expected second-quarter results and raised its full-year profit forecast. While its namesake brand’s same-store sales increased by 1 percent this quarter, the group of mall brands revealed that much of its growth comes in connection with “strong demand” for Old Navy products.
The Telegraph
Couture, pearls and a 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' script: inside the private collection of Audrey Hepburn
by Emily Cronin
Footsteps and the purposeful thrum of air conditioners are the loudest sounds in Christie’s Park Royal warehouse on the day of a recent visit.
Reuters
Hudson's Bay to review options after activist pressure - sources
by Carl O'Donnell and Lauren Hirsch
Hudson's Bay Co, owner of the Saks Fifth Avenue and Lord & Taylor retail chains, plans to review its options, including going private, following pressure from an activist shareholder, people familiar with the matter said.
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