There is a difference between knowing-that and knowing-how: between a written description and all the microscopic judgements of hand and eye we learn to make in any complicated task... debates over the cloth or construction of even the finest suit can only go so far until you try it on—the feel is itself a kind of understanding.
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Blue sky. Veruschka in the Arizona desert, Vogue 1968.
(Franco Rubartelli/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Friday - September 01, 2017 Fri - 09/01/17
rantnrave:// Whenever I go to a new store or restaurant, even if it's momentarily stopping in, I like to ask questions. It's not like an AFK REDDIT AMA or anything, but I find that how people answer, and their reactions to offhand questions, says a lot about a company. Reactions range from the knowledgable wink and nod, to the chipper rote reply, to the shrug, to the straight up bewildered reaction at why anyone would be interested to know more about where the gelato came from. You know the look. I can't help it. I'm curious. I don't judge the individuals, but I do look at answers to questions as an indication of the organization. Are these individuals empowered to answer? Do they care? Have they been given information to begin with? And that's just a company's front lines. The back of house is steadily being revealed. In the UNITED STATES, we have a holiday that commemorates labor, which we can apparently trace back to something involving a parade and some kegs. Manufacturing in the apparel industry is hitting broader awareness. This piece in the LA TIMES covers the systemic pressures to drive prices down and individual experiences of people under the weight of those pressures. But the blame game is getting out to the customer. So if you're a decision-maker at company X, Y, or Z, consider the changing cultural tides that you can mark out on your Conjoined Triangles of Success or your SWOT matrices. More apparel companies are tapping into customers' desire not to wear the product of questionable labor practices (literally) on themselves. If you buy clothes, it's pretty straightforward. Someone made it. Why not know something about it? Also have to re-up this piece by CHRISTINA MOON, which opens up the cultural side of LA's JOBBER MARKET... MANOLO BLAHNIK documentary debuts Sept. 29... MIRANDA JULY opens an interfaith charity shop on the floor of SELFRDIGES... DRIES 100th... FashionREDEF is breaking for LABOR DAY. Be back Tuesday.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
cut-and-sew
Los Angeles Times
Behind a $13 shirt, a $6-an-hour worker
by Natalie Kitroeff and Victoria Kim
How Forever 21 and other retailers avoid liability for factories that underpay workers to sew their clothes.
Racked
Should Jewish Celebrities Be Wearing Yellow Stars?
by Chavie Lieber
The Holocaust-era badge is making an appearance in pop culture.
The Business of Fashion
Why Younger Designers Are Building Archives
by Osman Ahmed
Once the preserve of luxury megabrands with long histories, archives are becoming de rigueur for a handful of fashion labels striding into their second decade.
Parisian Gentleman
Style and consumerism
by John Slamson
Walking in the high streets of Paris, the horrible truth spoils your leisurely stroll-the plastic signs of global brands aggressively disfigure the Haussmannian buildings, jarring with the fine facades and tall trees that line the avenues. Even in St Germain des Prés, bookshops have long made way for fashion stores selling disposable items that are at the same time cheap and expensive.
Vogue
Stephen Jones, Bruce Oldfield, and More of the Designers Who Dressed Her Remember Princess Diana
by Sarah Mower
“She really loved the world of fashion, and she liked the people in it. It was an escape for her"-Stephen Jones talks to Vogue’s Sarah Mower about Princess Diana.
i-D Magazine
Photographer Daniel Obasi Explores the Taboo of Gender Fluidity in Nigeria
by Antwaun Sargent
The artist captures the nonconformist youth of his native Lagos through an Afrofuturist lens.
The Cut
Melania Trump and the Chilling Artifice of Fashion
by Rhonda Garelick
Our discomfort with her hurricane photo op was about far more than just her shoes.
Dazed Digital
Pharrell on tennis, Rei Kawakubo and his skincare regime
by Dalya Benor
With his recently launched adidas Tennis collaboration, the musician talks 70s swag and the importance of giving back to the community.
The New York Times
Desigual Turns to Jean-Paul Goude for a Makeover
by Vanessa Friedman
In a bid for the fashion industry’s respect, the contemporary clothing label has named the French image-maker as its artistic director.
WWD
The Brooklyn Print Studio Fostering a New Generation of Indie T-Shirt Brands
by Misty White Sidell
Lqqk Studio in Bushwick -- called upon by Dover Street Market and Tom Sachs -- has spun a creative network of artists, designers and musicians.
swipe
The Fashion Law
What Are the Laws at Play When it Comes to Street Style Photography?
With the Spring/Summer 2018 runway shows swiftly approaching, it seems an appropriate time to look at the legality of one of everyone's favorite fashion month pastimes: Street style photos.
Refinery29 UK
The New Fashion Podcast That Will Make You Rethink Your Shopping Habits
by Alice Casely-Hayford
Fashion Revolution's new podcast is a must-listen for anyone who has ever considered where their clothes have come from.
Fashionista
Kate Berlant: How I Shop
by Whitney Bauck and Kate Berlant
The comedian and actor talks stealing makeup, raiding celebrity friends' closets and being a "materialist, capitalist pig."
T Magazine
The New Wave in Floral Arrangements
by Lindsay Talbot
For the most innovative designers working today, form is just as important as flora.
Die, Workwear!
That Old Smell at Sartoria Marinaro
by Derek Guy
The internet is overflowing with information nowadays about custom tailoring, but I find the best information still comes from traditional networks -- privately talking with friends who share an interest in the subject, as well as online acquaintances who've had bespoke clothes made. This is especially true if you're interested in Italian style.
Harvard Business Review
What Happens When Men Don't Conform to Masculine Clothing Norms at Work?
by Ben Barry
The ways we’re expected to dress can stifle our identities.
Fashionista
Fashionista's Pop Culture Style Icons: Maria Is Not Worthy of Cassandra From 'Wayne's World' Rock Star Style
by Maria Bobila
Her outfits were always excellent.
Bubblegumclub
adidas EQT // cultural parallels between two urban landscapes
by Christa Dee and Marcia Elizabeth
In 1991 adidas turned to its history, providing "everything that is essential and nothing that is not" and so the EQT came to be. From its home in Berlin, the EQT symbolised the best of adidas, focusing on performance, comfort and protection to meet athletic needs.
WGSN
Meet the brand who's revamping the world's most unsexy fabric
by Samuel Trotman
Swedish label The Cords & Co is sparking a corduroy revolution for A/W 17
Coveteur
The Jewelry Designer Who Made All of Kendrick Lamar's 'DAMN.' Pieces
by Jodi Taylor
Kendrick Lamar has been donning some heavy silver hardware, whether it be around his neck or on his wrists. That jewelry comes from Martine Ali.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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